Project 97 Cobra

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woody

woody

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Got the new keys programmed and cut today. Home Depot cut the keys for free.

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The remotes where easy to program using the following directions:

1. Open trunk and remove the trim on the drivers side until you see a box that says anti theft on it.

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2.Turn the igniton to the ON/ACC position.

3. Find the plug with 2 terminals and nothing going to it. Its the only plug there with nothing connected to it.

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4. Using a jumped wire connect those 2 terminals....you'll hear the door locks either lock or unlock....that means its ready to be programmed.

5. Press unlock or lock on the remote a few times until your door locks start to work.

The keys where also easy to program. I only had 1 original key and was able to just follow the instructions to add a key:


On-Board Programming Method "B" for Ford keys (1996 -early 1998 Ford, Lincoln, Mercury)

If you want to initiate a new master key....

1. Insert new key into ignition cylinder and turn it to the ON (RUN) position. The security light on the dash will flash for fifteen minutes.

2. When the security light stops flashing, you have FIVE minutes to start the next step. Turn the ignition cylinder OFF and then back to the ON (RUN) position. The security light on the dash will flash for fifteen more minutes.

3. When the security light stops flashing, you have FIVE minutes to start the next step. Turn the ignition cylinder to OFF and then back ON (RUN) position. The dash will flash for fifteen more minutes.

4. After the security light stops flashing the third time, the new key has been programmed into the vehicles computer and will operate the car. It has replaced ALL the previous electronic key codes and is the ONLY key programmed into the vehicles computer.

If you want to add a key....

1. Insert an existing key into the ignition cylinder.

2. Turn the ignition cylinder to ON (RUN) and back to OFF.

3. Remove the existing key and, within 15 seconds, insert the new key and turn it to ON (RUN).

4. The security light will light up for two seconds to indicate success in programming the key into the vehicle.

5. Don't attempt to start the vehicle with any key for at least 1 minute.
 
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Replaced the PVC Valve and Fuel Filter today!

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Fuel Filter was real easy! The new one comes with new clips, so don't worry about breaking the old plastic clips. It also comes with caps that will aid in preventing the old filter from spilling fuel as you remove it. The filter is located in front of the gas tank and easy to get to. Took me 10 min total, that was from putting on and off the ramps.

Make sure you bleed the pressure using the bleed valve located on the passenger side fuel rail. Have a rag or paper towel handy to absorb the released fuel.

Release Valve:

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Old Fuel Filter:

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New Clips:

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New filter installed:

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My new Smoked Cobra lights came today from LMS.

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Time to remove the old broken lights.

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The corners are held in with a single 7/16 nut just inside the fender.

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Both corners out...

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Both headlights out...

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Comparing the old vs the new...

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This is why I needed new lights...

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I re-used the headlight adjusters from the old lights on the new so no need to adjust and made it easy swap.

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The retaining ring for the bulb is different, so had to remove the factory and replace it with the new retainer ring.


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woody

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Replaced the PVC Valve and Fuel Filter today!

a6yha5u2.jpg


Fuel Filter was real easy! The new one comes with new clips, so don't worry about breaking the old plastic clips. It also comes with caps that will aid in preventing the old filter from spilling fuel as you remove it.




Old Fuel Filter:

e6u8usuz.jpg


New Clips:

guvu5a5y.jpg


New filter installed:

emetynyg.jpg


a5ypy2e7.jpg
 
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woody

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Tinted my taillights today.

Taking them apart is rather easy, but requires some patience.

I decided to do the tail lights, side markers, and third brake light.

Before:

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The third brake light is held in with 2 bolts.

The tail lights are held in with 4 nuts.

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To remove the side markers, it requires taking the bumper partially off. This is done by removing 2 screws located inside the wheel well...

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Also 1 bumper retainer located on the bottom edge...

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And there are 2 nuts located on the inside of the trunk. These will make it easier to remove the side marker lights...

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The side marker lights are held with 2 nuts.

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Next was the time to mask the back-up light. To make this easy, I used a flashlight shining through the light bulb hole to mark the outline and trimmed the painters tape in the shape of the back-up lens.

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Then I wet sanded the lenses with 2000 grit paper.

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Before sanding...

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After sanding...

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All masked and ready for tint after cleaning with thinner.

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woody

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Tinted with 1 coat...

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All done, used 2 coats of tint, 4 coats of clear...

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Before(top) / After(bottom)

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woody

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Added some fender strips.

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Many believe these are only for Corvette Grand Sports, but they actually originate from endurance racing like Le Mans, and Carroll Shelby had them on his racing Cobras and GT40's. Used to tell drivers apart on multi car teams for pit stops.
 
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woody

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Took advantage of the 80 degree day and painted the calipers.

Prep..

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Finished product...

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woody

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Since I plan on getting new rims soon and the chrome is starting to bubble in some areas. So I decided to try DupliColors Black Chrome Kit.

Before...

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Old decals that the previous owner put on.

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Removed...

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1st coat...
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2 coats...
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3 coats...
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4 coats...
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I plan on better pictures in the sun and daylight.
 

KillNThrill24

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I like the incredible detail you put into your posts man. Great progress you've made so far. The littlest of things can make the biggest differences in how your car looks. Looking forward to more work!!
 

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