Rear seat delete

[joe65]

just curious. what does the back seat in the sn's weigh? They dont seem that heavy to me, but maybe i'm remembering wrong? I know the bottom is just foam and vinyl, but the maybe the backs are heavier? Just wondering what the weight savings really is by yanking it? I don't like the added rear end/tire noise when the seats are folded down, but some might like the additional sounds from back there?

 

[ttocs]

The back with the frame weights a few pounds

 

[Daryl]

I know this post is going on a month old but if you haven’t decided I’ll chime in. Scharder was the owner of the yellow mustang registry. Has/had a shop in NC. His rear seat delete kits have been around several years. I have yet to hear any complaints. The construction is ABS plastic, he claims lighter than all competitors. When I finally get mine up and running a Scharder kit is what I’ll get. As far as the rear strut brace, it should be no issue.

Never too late to reply!

I’ve actually completed the RSD, using the kit from LMR.

Rear shock brace not an issue at all. Clearance is fine.

 

[Daryl]

just curious. what does the back seat in the sn's weigh? They dont seem that heavy to me, but maybe i'm remembering wrong? I know the bottom is just foam and vinyl, but the maybe the backs are heavier? Just wondering what the weight savings really is by yanking it? I don't like the added rear end/tire noise when the seats are folded down, but some might like the additional sounds from back there?

35-40lbs., appropriately. But that’s me on a bathroom scale subtracting my weight from each piece then adding it all up.

 

[joe65]

35-40lbs., appropriately. But that’s me on a bathroom scale subtracting my weight from each piece then adding it all up.

well, that's a good amount!

 

[Daryl]

well, that's a good amount!

That’s everything: seat bottoms,seat backs, seat belts and hardware and that deck collar piece(?). Might have missed something else, but you get the idea…

 

[joemomma]

I've had my rear seat bottom out several times working on the stereo. The seat bottom isn't all that heavy, but when you add in the seat back, belts, hardware, like Daryl says, it adds up.

 

[joe65]

good point, i missed the belts in my mind. 40lbs is a good start. I get the concern for dropping weight. I was worried about wheel weight when i was trying to decide which wheels to with. I really wanted 18s and when you go past 17s they get heavy fast. Anyways that's the main reason i have the oz wheels. only 21lbs a piece at 18x9" is pretty decent. My tires weigh more than the wheels.

 

[abood89]

FTW Scott Rod.

 

[SouthernGorilla]

Hope I don't get in trouble for reviving an old thread, but I have a relevant thought to add.

A DIY alternative to heavy wood would be to cover sheet foam in a layer or two of fiberglass. You could even save a few bucks on materials by not using actual fiberglass. Any cheap fabric from your local fabric store will work just as well in this application. You could even use the resin to bond a layer of leather to the top of the foam if you wanted to match a leather interior. This approach is nice if you don't really want the racecar tin look. It also makes it easy to customize the panels to add speaker enclosures or bumpouts for whatever you might want to store behind the panels. Just layer and carve the foam to do whatever you want.

 

[Makoto]

remember when you remove the seats a lot of road noise will stop being absorbed.

 

[ttocs]

but makes it so nice to say "I don't have a rear seat" when people are trying to figure out how to get from A-B and forget that mustangs are not made to fit 4 regular sized adults in the car. I do not miss my knees in the dash as I am barely able to shift all the while the people in the back seat are complaining like it was my idea and I didn't warn them.