Rebuilding my 2V

J_lope82

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I’m rebuilding my 2V. Starting off with a PI top end and iron non PI stock bottom. I want to do rings and and bearings for the rotating assembly. De-burr all the edges on the block.
Getting new oil pump. I want to get a moroso windage tray.

On the PI heads I’m installing new seals, heavier springs and want get some Todd warren cams. New adjustable cam gears. Heads are getting the 5 angle job. I want to port the heads my self. New tensioners and guides.
Installing new BBK tune length shorty headers.
Going to reseal everything of course.

Any recommendations on things I should do while I have the block apart?

IMG_0280.jpeg IMG_0282.jpeg
 

96blak54

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Ah yes....the pi head compression bump on npi bottom end. Should bump up the power alittle bit! Depending on the cams you are going with, you may consider cutting in some valve reliefs on them pistons. Aftermarket Cams are do-able without the valve reliefs long as you dont go to crazy and degree the cams in right. Plenty of info on the net with cam choices in that build senario, plenty of cam selections from different manufacturers as well. Why pay extra for a middle mans "suggestion" when any of the manufacturers will lead you in the right direction. Just saying.

Ask yourself the question, how much radical do you want? If you will be using the stock intake manifold. A mild cam over stock will run nice.
 
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J_lope82

J_lope82

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Yes I’m using the stock PI manifold. And don’t want a huge cam just what I can fit. I’m not trying to go crazy build with this engine.
I’ve decided to do this work myself and get the car on the road. Later I’ll be saving up for a coyote swap. For now this will do.
Honestly I’m enjoying doing the work even though I’m not out driving the car so it’s a cool experience. I haven’t rebuilt a small engine in many years.
 

96blak54

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Ok
A mild cam over stock wont require any upgraded valve springs even if suggested by the cam manufacturer. You can save the money towards a dyno tune. Comp cams, lunati cams, howards cams, crower cams....there is a good list of available off shelf cams and either of these manufacturers will lead you in the right direction at no additional cost. Modmax carries a very good list of cam profiles from different manufacturers and they can provide a great cam info/suggestion that will fit your build at no additional cost.
 
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J_lope82

J_lope82

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Thanks for the info man I really appreciate it. I’ll probably consult with several cam manufacturers and see what each recommend.
 
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J_lope82

J_lope82

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Yeah I’m excited for this build. It’s been a long time since I’ve built a small engine so I’m dusting off the cobwebs. It’s perfect timing because I now have a lot of time available to work on it. The only thing slowing me down right now is the heat. I only work on it in the early or late part of the day. I’ll post some pics as I progress.
 
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J_lope82

J_lope82

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I cleaned up my block at the car wash and sprayed some water displacer afterwards. Mounted it back on the engine stand. I honed the cylinders and I couldn’t see any major pits scratches or low spots. Very minor stuff.
When I took apart the heads I noticed the cam journals are scared. Apparently not terrible bad but not minor either. When I run my nail over several of the journals my nail does get hung up. So now I’m trying to decide if I buy new heads or just take some sand paper to the journals and send it. I personally don’t like doing things half ass, I rather have confidence in what I do but I don’t have enough experience to tell if I am over reacting on this.
What do you all recommend?
IMG_0324.jpegIMG_0311.jpegIMG_0310.jpeg
 

96blak54

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Ive seen this before. That looks like upgraded valve spring pressure. No gawling from absence of oil. Two soft materials running against each other and surface tentions give way.

Long as you use the same cam in the same head, their wont be a problem, especially if the engine was running good and sounded good.
 

RAU03MACH

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my question is how many miles on the car and how do the cylinder's look
if not bad i would try to keep it in the standard size bearings and pistons ,rings
 
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J_lope82

J_lope82

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Miles are 106K.
Cylinders looked good, I will keep them standard. The only problem was that a few top rings were broken when I pulled out the pistons.
 
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J_lope82

J_lope82

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Ive seen this before. That looks like upgraded valve spring pressure. No gawling from absence of oil. Two soft materials running against each other and surface tentions give way.

Long as you use the same cam in the same head, there wont be a problem, especially if the engine was running good and sounded good.
I honestly doubt the valve springs are upgraded but How can I determine if they are? The cams are stock pi cams.

The engine had low compression on cylinder #5.
 

96blak54

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To be honest, as cheap as these heads are, just source another good set, start fresh. But dont reuse them cams!
 

96blak54

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The big question here is why was a few top rings broken? Surely you were gentle disassembling the engine, but even then the rings dont break that easy. Some things just arent adding up here. Multiple broke top rings, boogered up cam journals,...what did this poor engine go thru?
 
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J_lope82

J_lope82

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I’m not sure I bought it like that. The broken top rings I’m guessing just with mileage. I pushed out most of the pistons by hand or pushed them out with the mallet handle. I’m kinda speculating the 2 step might have affected it. And I’m not 100% sure because I even didn’t use it that much.

The cam journals from what I have been gathering is that it’s kind of normal to get scared up like that.
Honestly the only time you knew something was wrong with that engine is when you would open up the throttle I would say more than 50%. Other than that the only thing you could hear is a light misfire in the exhaust note.
 

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