ReplicaR's Mustang build *finally on track again*

[ReplicaR]

we'd love to see your car run the course! Any chance the wifey-poo would be willing to tote around the camera, too? :-D

and thats some AWESOME customer service.... would they be interested in being a forum sponsor?

I'll get a GoPro on the car next time I'm out. Also, I'll chat with CarboTech. I don't really know if they are up for something like that, because the core of their business if racing pads, and I can count all the people who track the car on this forum on one hand.

 

[RichV]

So you're glazing the pads? What compounds on F/R?

What does your pedal feel like exactly? And where are you having problems? Does the issue happen on a specific brake use? Or after x amount of time on track?

 

[ReplicaR]

It happens pretty quickly, within one lap I lose a significant amount of stopping power. I'm running XP20 front XP10 rear currently. The pedal is firm. What I think did it was a small canyon run I went for, and I sorta dragged the brakes a lot, so when I came to stop, they were smoking a LOT. I've talked to a tech at CT, and he said that's what probably did it, because afterwards, it didn't stop very well at all.

 

[RichV]

Those compounds should handle the heat. Unless that was the bed procedure, then maybe the pads got affected.

Take some temps after a lap or 2, something is not right. I assume the fluid is flushed/fresh?

 

[ReplicaR]

Yeah, fluids were flushed in November, and I'm using Motul RBF 600. It's not the fluid, it's definitely the pads. They did come prebedded from CarboTech

 

[RichV]

That's something new, the pre-bedded. I've always bedded pads by running laps getting on the brakes harder and harder. Then when you do 1-2 laps at normal braking come in and let brakes cool, then you're good to go.

I've not used those compounds from Carbotech. XP-10 and XP-12 was what I used with the GT PBR 11" setup I ran. They were flawless on braking. I now use the DTC-70 with the Wilwoods, HAWK blues in the rear.

Something is not right. Either a part is failing, maybe some bunk fluid, pads, etc.

 

[hotmustang95]

The water temps were out of control though, and this really has me thinking at this point that it’s time to ditch the AC system, and let the radiator breathe a little. AC hasn’t worked since the engine swap anyway (expansion valve seized up), so I don’t see the point of it there anymore.



The minute my ac stopped working it was the excuse I needed to ditch it and make room under the hood. Removing the ac radiator and boxing in the cooling rad will really improve cooling. What radiator and fan setup are you using?

 

[hotmustang95]

Finally, the battery started to spill acid again after the track use, so I decided to replace it with Odyssey PC680MJT. I’ve heard a lot of good things about this battery, so I’m really looking forward to popping it in tonight, and running the car of it. Not only is it a dry cell (no more spills), but it also weights 20 lbs less than stock. That’s a win/win in my book. The car doesn’t get driven much, so I’ll keep it hooked up to battery tender while it’s being stored.

Another great choice. I use the same one. Also keep it connected to the tender whenever not in use.

 

[ReplicaR]

The minute my ac stopped working it was the excuse I needed to ditch it and make room under the hood. Removing the ac radiator and boxing in the cooling rad will really improve cooling. What radiator and fan setup are you using?

I've got a Mark 8 fan on a custom aluminum radiator.

 

[hotmustang95]

Do you run a T-stat? What temps are you seeing?

 

[ReplicaR]

I'm running a 180 degree thermostat, but I see temps dip below that pretty often on the highway. I've only had the AC out recently, so it's been running pretty cold at the track. I think water was 185 and oil was 200 or something like that. I'm going to have to develop hood venting a bit more by summertime in order to keep up with demand. I've got a feeling that I could get a better radiator as well.

 

[hotmustang95]

I'm running a 180 degree thermostat, but I see temps dip below that pretty often on the highway. I've only had the AC out recently, so it's been running pretty cold at the track. I think water was 185 and oil was 200 or something like that. I'm going to have to develop hood venting a bit more by summertime in order to keep up with demand. I've got a feeling that I could get a better radiator as well.

Nah, the issue is not your radiator. I went from a Fluidyne back to a stock unit and nothing changed. My highest temps are 220 in the summer time. Try boxing in that radiator. That includes the underside of the bumper.

 

[ReplicaR]

The radiator is boxed pretty well from top and sides. I don't have it boxed on the bottom, but I think once I have a splitter that will have to happen. For now it's still getting a lot of air with a help of airdam.

 

[ReplicaR]

The pads have arrived at CarboTech, and I got a chance to chat with them. They said that the pads were pretty glazed, they still don't know why. But they will mill them down a bit, and send them back to me. I should receive them before saturday, which means that will be a pretty busy day for me. In the meantime, I turn all 4 rotors, plus another two blanks for the front, just in case. I usually don't turn rotors, but these have barely any miles on them, so it suck to buy new ones right now.

 

[ReplicaR]

Decided to get my numbers on the car. Since it's not driven on the street much anymore other than to and from track, I think it would be nice to just leave the numbers on it, and not have to make them every time out of masking tape.

 

[DavidBoren]

I don't think that whether or not the car is driven much on the street should influence your decision to leave the numbers on it.

"Why numbers on car?"

"Because racecar..."

 

[ReplicaR]

Well yeah, that goes without saying.

 

[badsheep5.0]

I don't think that whether or not the car is driven much on the street should influence your decision to leave the numbers on it.

"Why numbers on car?"

"Because racecar..."

I agree with David I have numbers on my car still. Only reason they will cone off is if I tire of them

 

[ReplicaR]

Changed the number look, decided to go red with black outline.

Also, this is a great shot, but I'm not about to pay 20 dollars for one picture.

 

[HuskerGT]

I don't know, man. $20 for a kick ass pic isn' t too bad of a price, and that pic is friggin cool, IMO