ReplicaR's Mustang build *finally on track again*

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ReplicaR

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So, I've an interesting discovery the other day. Below are two springs, one from QA1 (silver), the other is a Hypercoil (blue). Both are same length (10 inches), same rate (450lbs) and same inside diameter (2.5 inches). What's different is that QA1 spring has 10 coils, while the HyperCoil has only 7. This tells me that the metal in the QA1 is so much weaker than the HyperCoil, that they require more coils to achieve the same rate. This also creates another problem. Travel is cut down significantly. Since the springs will compress at the same rate, given that they are both 450 lbs, QA1 will bottom out first, since it has more coils, creating coil bind condition, and costing traction in that corner. I used to think that coilover springs were coilover springs. As long as the rate and length is the same, then the springs will be identical. I just found out that's not the case.

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ReplicaR

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The car as it sits.

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ReplicaR

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Time to upgrade the cooling. I've ordered a new oil cooler to match the capability of the new engine. This is a Setrab 934 oil cooler, so this means that I'm stepping away from 20 row to a 34 row cooler. This means that I will have a very nice complete Setrab 920 kit for sale very soon, but until then I need to get this installed and test it at the track. I've also noticed that the rear calipers were warped, so it was time to replace them and bleed the brake fluid while I was there. Trying to make it out to Buttonwillow in two weeks.

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ReplicaR

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So a bit of an update. Since last time, I’ve had the oil cooler installed, as well as new pads and rotors for the track. Once I got to the track, it was an extra hot day at Buttonwillow, pit temperatures reaching as high as 110 degrees. I was happy to find that oil temps were actually controlled pretty well, getting only up to 270 degrees, where usually it would it peg the gauge at 280 degrees within first 5-10 minutes. The water temps were out of control though, and this really has me thinking at this point that it’s time to ditch the AC system, and let the radiator breathe a little. AC hasn’t worked since the engine swap anyway (expansion valve seized up), so I don’t see the point of it there anymore.


The pads let me down quite a bit though. I was getting a lot of brake fade, which was very disappointing. I think I have to either go with more aggressive compound from CarboTech or install cooling ducts again. I already got the more aggressive pads, and I will order ducts very soon, most likely the Kenny Brown ones.


Finally, the battery started to spill acid again after the track use, so I decided to replace it with Odyssey PC680MJT. I’ve heard a lot of good things about this battery, so I’m really looking forward to popping it in tonight, and running the car of it. Not only is it a dry cell (no more spills), but it also weights 20 lbs less than stock. That’s a win/win in my book. The car doesn’t get driven much, so I’ll keep it hooked up to battery tender while it’s being stored.
 

DavidBoren

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If it's not one thing, it's another. But it's good to hear your oil cooler udgrade helped. Definitely time to ditch the a/c... especially if it doesn't work anyways.
 
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ReplicaR

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Yeah, the ever evolving car where I fix one thing and two more issues arise. I'm very happy about the battery however. The battery that I had in there was 38 lbs, and going to a 15 lbs battery was pretty sweet. The same night I put it in, the alternator failed, but at least I was able to replace under lifetime warranty that Autozone offers. Lasted 5 years I guess.
 

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I'm not sure how much the Kenny Brown ducts are - I have the Agent 47 ones, and while a tad pricey they work really well.
 
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ReplicaR

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KB ones are like 10 dollars more than A47. I like the design of KB ones better, because they cover the entire hub area, therefore air does not get lost. Here is the example

KB


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Agent47

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ReplicaR

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Made a step into mega camber land. The bottom strut hole was opened up just a tiny little bit, but yielded some great results in overall angle. Went from -3.2 degrees to -4.5. I'm going to Buttonwillow this weekend to see if that will help me get some more grip up front. A sharp eye will also notice that I got a tow hook as well. There is a matching one up front too, courtesy of FTR.

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ReplicaR

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Well, more camber definitely helped. I ended up making giant leap in lap times, going from 2:10 to 2:03 at Buttonwillow. The car is becoming more and more honed in. It's got a LOT of potential, but needs a lot of setup work. Brakes are still not up to my liking, so I think it's time to put the ducts back on the car. Going purely more aggressive pads didn't change brake feel that much, which is what I suspected would have happened.
 

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Well, more camber definitely helped. I ended up making giant leap in lap times, going from 2:10 to 2:03 at Buttonwillow. The car is becoming more and more honed in. It's got a LOT of potential, but needs a lot of setup work. Brakes are still not up to my liking, so I think it's time to put the ducts back on the car. Going purely more aggressive pads didn't change brake feel that much, which is what I suspected would have happened.

Awesome man! glad to hear that camber helped out!


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ReplicaR

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A bit of an update on the brake issues. I've been talking to CarboTech, and they are saying that the brakes I have should be more than enough. They suspect I've glazed the pads and rotors. After buying two sets of pads in a matter of 2 months, they offered to work with me to get this issue right. They sent me a new set of brake pads in the most aggressive compound that they have (XP-24), completely free. On top of that they are taking my current pads back in order to mill them down a little bit, and examine what they look like. After the pads will be examined and milled down to clean up surface, they will ship them back to me. Talk about customer services, I'm very impressed. Let's hope this really is a glazing issue, and not something else. I am still planning on getting cooling ducts, and possibly testing all the changes at the Streets of Willow next month. My goal for this year to be sub 2:00 at Buttonwillow. For a full weight car, with no aero, that's a very stout time. That's essentially all mechanical grip and power. There might need to be more finetuning needed for the front end. I'll get my wife to come to the track with me and do the tire temp readings, hopefully that will help me understand how to tune the front end better.
 

MustangChris

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A bit of an update on the brake issues. I've been talking to CarboTech, and they are saying that the brakes I have should be more than enough. They suspect I've glazed the pads and rotors. After buying two sets of pads in a matter of 2 months, they offered to work with me to get this issue right. They sent me a new set of brake pads in the most aggressive compound that they have (XP-24), completely free. On top of that they are taking my current pads back in order to mill them down a little bit, and examine what they look like. After the pads will be examined and milled down to clean up surface, they will ship them back to me. Talk about customer services, I'm very impressed. Let's hope this really is a glazing issue, and not something else. I am still planning on getting cooling ducts, and possibly testing all the changes at the Streets of Willow next month. My goal for this year to be sub 2:00 at Buttonwillow. For a full weight car, with no aero, that's a very stout time. That's essentially all mechanical grip and power. There might need to be more finetuning needed for the front end. I'll get my wife to come to the track with me and do the tire temp readings, hopefully that will help me understand how to tune the front end better.


we'd love to see your car run the course! Any chance the wifey-poo would be willing to tote around the camera, too? :-D

and thats some AWESOME customer service.... would they be interested in being a forum sponsor? ;)
 

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