Bullitt5339
Active Member
- Joined
- May 30, 2010
- Messages
- 396
- Reaction score
- 4
It is now..... I was building it for autocross and changed directions. It weighed 3180 in race trim with the panhard bar setup and heavier K-Member in it before.
ReplicaR's Mustang build *finally on track again*
- Thread starter ReplicaR
- Start date
So bought some urethane motor mounts. Went with Energy Suspension pieces, beefy as hell (read: heavy). I'll take some pictures soon. They will hopefully fix the problem I've been having with stock replacement and hopefully will not transfer too much vibration from the engine. I'll take some pictures when I'll change them.
I have solid mounts in my car and after fixing my harmonic balancer, I really don't have THAT much more vibration into the car. I feel like it's still less than with my wore out mounts bouncing around.
Installed the mounts this morning. When I opened the box, first thing I saw was this
Finest components available you say? We'll see I thought to my self.
The motor mounts themselves. Pretty nice quality. Nuts are all nylon locked, which leaves out the possibility of it getting loose and splitting apart. The metal is coated, the urethane fills the entire mount, rather than just the middle, and this is the whole reason why I decided to go this route in the first place. More on this in the following the pictures.
Here is what stock mounts look like compared to Energy Suspension
Note something very different. The stock mounts or stock style replacements are not filled all the way. They are just filled in the middle, and I guess manufacturers just expect them to stay there. For mustangs that are performance driven, or have no more soft bushings in the back, like my torque arm mustang, it's especially important. All the motion gets transferred through drive line, which puts a lot of load on the mounts. Stock style mounts can't handle it and break away from their central location. They are not completely separated, so you don't get that motor crashing down sound, but motor still moves around quite a bit, which does result in awful drivability. It's even more worse when the pinion angle changes on a torque arm car, because then you get a nasty vibration which feeds right into the cabin, making the car down right unpleasant to drive.
If you look carefully, so you can see that stock mount already sagged, which means that it moves freely with in the confine of the stock mount. With Energy Suspension mount being completely filled, this failure becomes an impossibility. I was tired of changing mounts more often than I change oil. I don't care that Autozone replacements are free, I just don't have an hour and a half to spend every month, and motor mounts should not be a part of monthly maintenance. I'll get some driving impressions, and post soon. So far I've only taken the car around the block, and they feel great, much better than blown mounts I've replaced.
Finest components available you say? We'll see I thought to my self.
The motor mounts themselves. Pretty nice quality. Nuts are all nylon locked, which leaves out the possibility of it getting loose and splitting apart. The metal is coated, the urethane fills the entire mount, rather than just the middle, and this is the whole reason why I decided to go this route in the first place. More on this in the following the pictures.
Here is what stock mounts look like compared to Energy Suspension
Note something very different. The stock mounts or stock style replacements are not filled all the way. They are just filled in the middle, and I guess manufacturers just expect them to stay there. For mustangs that are performance driven, or have no more soft bushings in the back, like my torque arm mustang, it's especially important. All the motion gets transferred through drive line, which puts a lot of load on the mounts. Stock style mounts can't handle it and break away from their central location. They are not completely separated, so you don't get that motor crashing down sound, but motor still moves around quite a bit, which does result in awful drivability. It's even more worse when the pinion angle changes on a torque arm car, because then you get a nasty vibration which feeds right into the cabin, making the car down right unpleasant to drive.
If you look carefully, so you can see that stock mount already sagged, which means that it moves freely with in the confine of the stock mount. With Energy Suspension mount being completely filled, this failure becomes an impossibility. I was tired of changing mounts more often than I change oil. I don't care that Autozone replacements are free, I just don't have an hour and a half to spend every month, and motor mounts should not be a part of monthly maintenance. I'll get some driving impressions, and post soon. So far I've only taken the car around the block, and they feel great, much better than blown mounts I've replaced.
New wheels test fit
Decided to order one Enkei RPF1 in 17x10 just to test fit. The common belief is that Mustangs with Cobra R brakes (Brembo 13 inch kit) do not clear those. Well, I'm happy to report that they do in fact clear the wheels, and the suspension. It does stick out just a tiny little bit in the front, at full droop. I'm thinking that I'll have the fenders pulled just an inch, and at ride height it will probably be perfect. Best part is the wheel takes 8 lbs a corner off my current track wheel setup (Cobra R 17x9 = 25lbs, Enkei RPF1 17x10 = 17lbs), and I should get better sidewall action, as well as better contact patch, since I'm going away from 17x9 wheel on a 275 NT-01
Decided to order one Enkei RPF1 in 17x10 just to test fit. The common belief is that Mustangs with Cobra R brakes (Brembo 13 inch kit) do not clear those. Well, I'm happy to report that they do in fact clear the wheels, and the suspension. It does stick out just a tiny little bit in the front, at full droop. I'm thinking that I'll have the fenders pulled just an inch, and at ride height it will probably be perfect. Best part is the wheel takes 8 lbs a corner off my current track wheel setup (Cobra R 17x9 = 25lbs, Enkei RPF1 17x10 = 17lbs), and I should get better sidewall action, as well as better contact patch, since I'm going away from 17x9 wheel on a 275 NT-01
g36 monkey
Post Whore
Nice man, weight loss is one of the best ways to gain speed! 
I've often wondered how the RPF-1 wheels would look on a SN95... So far, it looks great and I'm glad you're going this route! Keep us posted D.
bonestock3.8DTH
Well-Known Member
Get tires on yet and everything? These wheels should look pretty sick with the finders pulled out!!
Not yet. Going to AutoX in a few weeks to burn up what's left of NT01s. After that I will start buying stuff. For now I'm looking for someone to do a good pull on fenders. Not a lot of takers for something this risky, pulling stock sheetmetal about 2 inches.
Slykin
Well-Known Member
I am VERY interested to see how pulling the fenders will look and if it comes out well. Subscribed!
Dmitry- I suggest you find some fenders from the salvage yard to use as "stunt men" before you mess up yours. Just a thought!
Excited to see this thing with pulled fenders and those wide RPF1s on it. This is what I've wanted to do on my car but wasn't sure how to go about getting the 17x10s to really fit under there.
lol, we have the same sig image now.
The main thing I'm looking forward to is better steering response due to sidewall being located better on a 10 inch wheel, and taking off 8 lbs a wheel. That should feel sweet.
The main thing I'm looking forward to is better steering response due to sidewall being located better on a 10 inch wheel, and taking off 8 lbs a wheel. That should feel sweet.
gopher_6_9
Member
Very interested in seeing the pulled fenders myself.
What size tires are you planning on running?
