ride-tech air-ride install

[MustangChris]

idea: right behind the rear seats. fold them down mount right behind it.... you can use the area behind the side pannels (rear seats) and trunk liner to quietly run lines...

 

[Sinned83]

Wow Scott. I always liked your installs but you are talented my friend.

 

[ttocs]

idea: right behind the rear seats. fold them down mount right behind it.... you can use the area behind the side pannels (rear seats) and trunk liner to quietly run lines...

Got an idea of where to put the 3 - 10" subs, 4 amps, 2 batteries then?

 

[KidK9]

You could get a trailer? Or maybe a sidecar!

 

[MustangChris]

if they are optimas, put them on the roof. they're sealed.

 

[SVTstang96]

Cant wait to see this finished! Have you thought about making a cover panel for the wiring and controls in front of the tank? i think it would look really cool if all you saw was the tank itself. Just a simple mdf carpeted box over the controls would look really clean imo

 

[ttocs]

I will be building a cover to go over it all when its done. The batteries are already mounted in the trunk. I almost hung the smaller one but opted for the floor instead.

 

[Tony]

if u dont know already...which u may, when u do run your pressure switch, run it to a relay switch cause if u dont u will burn up the pressure switch asap!! with ur tank and compressor behind your seats, have u heard it run yet? looks like a pretty mild compressor so may not vibrate your ass off, lol! some bigger ones can be loud and annoying!

 

[Tony]

Wow Scott. I always liked your installs but you are talented my friend.

+1

 

[ttocs]

whats a relay switch? I know what a relay is, and know what a switch is, are you saying use a relay as a switch? The instructions specifically say not to do that or it can burn up the ECU. They have outputs for two compressors in the kit already wired so I can add a 2nd one if I want/need to.

I had them power the system up for me at their shop on the demo truck and heard it. I was suprised how loud it was and just hope the MLV will keep the noise down. I started running wires last night so I have not yet powered it up, it comming.

 

[Tony]

^relay, not switch...my bad! the instructions tell u specifically not to run ur pressure switch to a relay? i've never seen that! i have always ran one to a relay. the only way i know how to keep them from burning up so quick! maybe ur p.s. is regulated better with that kit to handle constant volts to it. but another thing to consider is the temp of the compressor. these things get fn hot to the touch pretty quick too. def wanna isolate it from any surface that could melt if in contact. like the back of a seat or carpet...etc. i know ya got skills my man just tryin to help ya out with the things i've experienced over the years! def doin good so far..kudos

 

[ttocs]

oh for the pressure switch ok I still have not got to that bridge to cross it. I assume it would just be wired inline to cut power to the compressor and not powering the compressor as it suggested not to do. The cpu has wiring thick enough to power the main and 2nd compressor to control it so a relay to power it is not needed.

I already considered the heat issue on the compressor and once I get the nut on the bottom bolt the motor will be clear of the sound damping that is under it. My big amp will be right next to it and I have plans to have fans moving air around it so hopefully I can get them to feed fresh air to the compressor.

Thanks for all the suggestions, keep them comming as I don't know what I don't know about this stuff. Its similar to the audio/security stuff I did for years but also different.

 

[ProKiller]

i'm kind of with the other guys though about that tank location. i understand not having room for it all but what about the back seat. you said you were doing a rear seat delete there anyway, why not mount it to the floor pan and bring the "seat" part up higher? more inline with the arm rests on the side panels.

 

[ttocs]

back seat and trunk has all been taken up/planned for already again with the stereo. You can see pics of what I have mounted there already here:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2395420/1994-ford-mustang-gt-coupe-2d/page-10

If its a safety thing your concerned about I am not sure why it would batter if it is directly behind the seat, or about another foot or two behind that, or even in the trunk really. With the pressure that thing contains if it fails catastrophically while mounted anywhere in the car I will be wanting to be somewhere else I would think. The floor and back seat are not that far away but it will be easier to hide on the floor as there is no way of hiding a 3 gallon tank in a rear-seat delete.

 

[ProKiller]

my thing is just i can't see a RSD coming that far forward looking right. I thought your trunk was just stereo so i suggested in the RSD. I'm sure in the end it will look good just like everything else you do.

 

[ttocs]

ok I understand, I thought it was a safety suggestion. It will look different with the cover in place but I think it will just make it look more like a regular 2-seater rather then a delete. I have a pic in my head of how it might look and it should not be too bad other then the hoses/nozzles facing up.

 

[Tony]

you could pull off the rsd all the way to the front seats if u made pockets for the tank and get a show polished compressor and thats all u seen! plus it would let ur compresser stay a little cooler! im just sayin shit cause i wanna do a fn air ride like a futher mucker!!!! so the tank would be shown since its polished behind ur seat and the polished compressor would be shown behind the passenger seat. break up the huge bottom rsd.

 

[ttocs]

got the wiring pretty well done now, only part left is for the display which is a single wire. I installed a small Phoenix Gold dist block next to the valves to make it easier/cleaner to split power/ground to all the componants. Cable clamps are used to hold all the wires down and out of the way so that they will get pinched and they will also be used for the hoses when they are ran. Not sure yet if they will go down/out under the drivers seat or under the tank, need to see how crowded it is under the car when the subframe connectors are installed around the side exhaust.

With the seat all the down and back there is still just enough room to run the hoses.

Gonna take a little break and then go take down the headliner to see about installing the overhead. Hopefully that will not be too big of a deal.

 

[ttocs]

man the headliner is a biatch. I am sure that ford has somehow reverse engineers some alien technology that now allows them to weld carpeted cardboard to metal.... Thought I was going to mess up my roof pulling it out so I decided to concentrate on the display I knew how to do. I am going to install an overhead consol from an explorer in that I will flush mount the display into. What use to house the lights for the consol now holds my suspensions display. I am 95% done with it now but still have some small areas to finish but you get the idea.

The first step to the consol install I have not yet shown but I traced the area around the consol where I wanted it. I used chalk because it was black and there is just enough space between the visors. After that I pulled(literally) the overhead liner and was happy to get it out in one piece not all torn up. Now I mached up the mounting bracket for the consol and was afraid that it was going to be too far forward. In case this is an issue I made the mountin holes into slots so that I can move it later if I need too.

Here you can see both the slots I widened as well as the mounting slots at the bottom that need to be cut out. The front of the consol has clips that snap into those slots and the back is held with screws. Once I had the bracket mounted I just kept it up there and used a 1/4" drill to take out the majority of the material and then my dremel to smooth them out more.

 

[g36 monkey]

Scott, you're so ridiculous it's so awesome! People that don't know these cars will get in and have no idea how awesome that is. I love mods like that!