sneaky98gt
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I actually did this a few months ago, but just finally got around to editing the post out like I wanted it. Maybe this will be helpful to someone someday.
I'm installing a FRPP/SVO blower onto a 98 GT. I'm planning on running it at about 6 pounds on non-intercooled boost. Mods currently on the car: PI cams, PI intake, mix-matched (yet functional) CAI, offroad Prochamber, Flowmaster catback, and UDPs. For the install, I'll be removing the PI intake and UDPs (obviously), and installing a 75 mm TB.
So it started this past weekend. Well, sort of.
Got these installed this past weekend:
It's a boost/vac and a fuel pressure gauge from Autometer, the Cobalt series. I love them, and they look great. They pretty well match the LED gauges I have, except they are a bit brighter. I may try and play around with some resistors and get them to dim down some. Haven't really decided yet. Install wasn't hard, just really, really tedious working by myself. At the time of this picture, I didn't have the fuel pressure sender hooked up.
Next up is an upgraded fuel pump. I went with an SVT Focus fuel pump as it is a direct drop in the 98-04 GTs good for 400 rwhp. Got the SVT Focus fuel pump in on Thursday night. Here's the focus assembly and pump disassembled.
Lowered the tank. Is pretty simple to do. Just remove the three bolts on the straps, and unbolt the filler tube.
Here's the fuel hat bolted to the fuel tank. You first need to remove the fuel lines with a fuel line disconnect tool. Then take the 6 bolts holding the fuel hat onto the tank out, and remove the hat.
Then you have to remove the top from the fuel assembly down in the tank. First remove the plug from the fuel pump itself, then remove the 5 screws around the top of the top. There are two tabs left on the outside that you have to push in and the top will pop right off. Now you can remove the fuel pump and replace with the Focus one. Here is what it looks like when you take the top off.
Here are the two pumps side by side, with the Focus one on the right. Notice that they look identical and not to get them mixed up.
Now reverse order and put it all back together.
Now onto the supercharger install.
I forgot to take a picture of the stock engine bay, but we all know what one of those looks like anyway. Here's one with the intake tube, alternator, water pump pulley, all the PCV, and all the vacuum stuff removed. Also have to remove plug wires, fuel injectors, and fuel rails.
Don't have any pictures of this step either, but next thing to do is remove the upper intake plenum/throttle body. Remove the throttle cable and cruise cable. Also unbolt the EGR tube on the driver side of the plenum. Take the 5 bolts off and remove the plenum.
Then have to remove the lower intake manifold. Take the water hose off the front driver side, and the rear passenger side. Then take the 11 bolts holding it on off and remove the manifold. Pretty simple to do. Clean up the heads and now is a good time to do the spark plugs as well.
Next up is putting the supercharger on. First make sure the gaskets are on and held in place with the tabs. We did it with three people; two people lifted the supercharger, and one person held all the wires and EGR stuff out of the way best they could. It worked pretty well. The bolts needed to bolt the supercharger down are 8mm x 35mm. I used 40mm bolts and a washer, and they worked fine.
Next up was to make a bracket for the DFPE (I think that's the name). Just used a piece of flat metal, drilled a hole in the bottom to use in the stock bracket's location, and two holes in the top to hold the sensor. Not too hard to do.
I then had to make a bracket for the EGR valve solenoid (I think). There were a couple of holes to use on the supercharger. Bracket was pretty easy to make. In this picture, it actually turned out to be in the way of the cruise control cable, so I actually moved it slightly from how it is in this picture. Here it is in the final location. Sorry for the crappy pictures again.
Now for probably the hardest part of the project. Making a bracket for the supercharger idler pulley/for the alternator to bolt to. I used a piece of 1/8 flat metal bolted to a water pump bolt and a timing cover bolt. I then drilled a 5/16 hole where the alternator leaf bolt hole is. Next welded a round piece of solid metal over top of that hole in order to give rigidity in the direction that the idler would want to move. Then drilled a 5/16 hole straight through that piece of metal.
Next found and cut a round piece of metal just big enough to fill up up the inside of the idler pulley (which is the same as a regular idler or tensioner pulley). Drilled a 5/16 hole through that piece of metal as well. Now a 5/16 bolt about 3 inches long will go through the small piece of round metal (which is inside the pulley as a bushing), the large round piece of metal, the 1/8 flat metal, and the alternator leaf hole, with a nut on the back. Also put washers inbetween components as necessary to shim it all to where I wanted it.
This is where that bracket goes.
The alternator is also held by this shake brace:
And this bolt through the coil pack mounting bracket:
I kinda had to play around with all the washers and how I held it in order to get the alternator pulley aligned just right with the others. When I had it where I wanted it, I tighten all three bolts up, starting with the shake brace, then the coil pack bracket bolt, then the bottom bolt holding the idler pulley up. And here's what it looks like when it's all bolted up.
I was surprised at how solid and nicely aligned everything is. I am kinda proud of myself actually, lol. I've done lots of welding/fabrication type work on the farm, but nothing this small/precise. All the stuff I've done before has been, "Oh, get it within an inch or two and we'll beat it into place." Can't exactly do that here....lol, and like I said, I am surprised at how nicely it has worked out.
Next up is a new serpentine belt. After 3 trips to Advance Auto, I finally got one that would fit, and it is 111.5 inches.
Also, the belt will hit the driver side coil pack mounting bracket. It just barely will hit, but a little modification is required. I marked the bracket where the belt was hitting it, and just used a bench grinder to grind it down till the belt will no longer hit it. Also used a sawzaw to cut the little ear off the top corner of the bracket; it isn't used for anything. Not a big deal, but has to be done.
Here is the ear cut off. Sorry for the bad picture quality.
Here is a picture of the belt and bracket after I ground it down.
Also had to make a throttle cable bracket. It was a very ugly and aggravating piece to make, but I finally did it. It's a very custom, jerry rigged piece. It is basically two pieces of flat bar welded together at an angle so that when the bottom piece is bolted to the supercharger, the top piece (which the throttle cable bolts to) is level. There is also a slit in the bottom piece for the metal piece on the throttle cable to slip down in to. Hard to explain, but here are a few of pictures so that you get the idea.
Had to make/put on a water coolant hose (this is the one between the firewall and front passenger side of the supercharger). A couple pieces of 1/2 inch hose, one elbow, and 4 clamps later, and it was on there. No big deal. Picture for reference:
Radiator hose was the same ordeal. I actually just cut/shortened my stock radiator hose and put an elbow in between. Works perfectly.
Had to put a new piece of hose on the front fuel rail crossover. One 18 inch piece of fuel injection fuel hose and 2 clamps later, and that problem was solved.
There was also some vacuum tubing re-routing/splicing that had to be done. Nothing too hard, and you can figure it out on your own pretty easily. I just used some 5/32s vacuum hose and some T's of the same size to do any splicing I needed to. Just use the 5/32s rubber vacuum hose to join the T's and the nylon tube together.
Same goes for the IAC tube and PCV tubing hoses. Just had to cut a few pieces of hose the length I needed. No big deal.
A picture of everything completely done.
Picture of the car on the trailer just before we left for Fastlane to get it tuned. The truck is my brother's 7.3 Stroke (intake, exhaust, chipped).
On the dyno:
FASTLANE MOTORSPORTS Custom Dyno Tune on 96 GT with SVO Supercharger - Will Nicholson
Results:
Track vid
Supercharged 98 Mustang GT vs. F-250 7.3 Powerstroke Diesel
0-60
1998 Mustang GT FRPP/SVO Supercharger 0-60
Feel free to ask any questions about this that you need.
I'm installing a FRPP/SVO blower onto a 98 GT. I'm planning on running it at about 6 pounds on non-intercooled boost. Mods currently on the car: PI cams, PI intake, mix-matched (yet functional) CAI, offroad Prochamber, Flowmaster catback, and UDPs. For the install, I'll be removing the PI intake and UDPs (obviously), and installing a 75 mm TB.
So it started this past weekend. Well, sort of.
Got these installed this past weekend:
It's a boost/vac and a fuel pressure gauge from Autometer, the Cobalt series. I love them, and they look great. They pretty well match the LED gauges I have, except they are a bit brighter. I may try and play around with some resistors and get them to dim down some. Haven't really decided yet. Install wasn't hard, just really, really tedious working by myself. At the time of this picture, I didn't have the fuel pressure sender hooked up.
Next up is an upgraded fuel pump. I went with an SVT Focus fuel pump as it is a direct drop in the 98-04 GTs good for 400 rwhp. Got the SVT Focus fuel pump in on Thursday night. Here's the focus assembly and pump disassembled.
Lowered the tank. Is pretty simple to do. Just remove the three bolts on the straps, and unbolt the filler tube.
Here's the fuel hat bolted to the fuel tank. You first need to remove the fuel lines with a fuel line disconnect tool. Then take the 6 bolts holding the fuel hat onto the tank out, and remove the hat.
Then you have to remove the top from the fuel assembly down in the tank. First remove the plug from the fuel pump itself, then remove the 5 screws around the top of the top. There are two tabs left on the outside that you have to push in and the top will pop right off. Now you can remove the fuel pump and replace with the Focus one. Here is what it looks like when you take the top off.
Here are the two pumps side by side, with the Focus one on the right. Notice that they look identical and not to get them mixed up.
Now reverse order and put it all back together.
Now onto the supercharger install.
I forgot to take a picture of the stock engine bay, but we all know what one of those looks like anyway. Here's one with the intake tube, alternator, water pump pulley, all the PCV, and all the vacuum stuff removed. Also have to remove plug wires, fuel injectors, and fuel rails.
Don't have any pictures of this step either, but next thing to do is remove the upper intake plenum/throttle body. Remove the throttle cable and cruise cable. Also unbolt the EGR tube on the driver side of the plenum. Take the 5 bolts off and remove the plenum.
Then have to remove the lower intake manifold. Take the water hose off the front driver side, and the rear passenger side. Then take the 11 bolts holding it on off and remove the manifold. Pretty simple to do. Clean up the heads and now is a good time to do the spark plugs as well.
Next up is putting the supercharger on. First make sure the gaskets are on and held in place with the tabs. We did it with three people; two people lifted the supercharger, and one person held all the wires and EGR stuff out of the way best they could. It worked pretty well. The bolts needed to bolt the supercharger down are 8mm x 35mm. I used 40mm bolts and a washer, and they worked fine.
Next up was to make a bracket for the DFPE (I think that's the name). Just used a piece of flat metal, drilled a hole in the bottom to use in the stock bracket's location, and two holes in the top to hold the sensor. Not too hard to do.
I then had to make a bracket for the EGR valve solenoid (I think). There were a couple of holes to use on the supercharger. Bracket was pretty easy to make. In this picture, it actually turned out to be in the way of the cruise control cable, so I actually moved it slightly from how it is in this picture. Here it is in the final location. Sorry for the crappy pictures again.
Now for probably the hardest part of the project. Making a bracket for the supercharger idler pulley/for the alternator to bolt to. I used a piece of 1/8 flat metal bolted to a water pump bolt and a timing cover bolt. I then drilled a 5/16 hole where the alternator leaf bolt hole is. Next welded a round piece of solid metal over top of that hole in order to give rigidity in the direction that the idler would want to move. Then drilled a 5/16 hole straight through that piece of metal.
Next found and cut a round piece of metal just big enough to fill up up the inside of the idler pulley (which is the same as a regular idler or tensioner pulley). Drilled a 5/16 hole through that piece of metal as well. Now a 5/16 bolt about 3 inches long will go through the small piece of round metal (which is inside the pulley as a bushing), the large round piece of metal, the 1/8 flat metal, and the alternator leaf hole, with a nut on the back. Also put washers inbetween components as necessary to shim it all to where I wanted it.
This is where that bracket goes.
The alternator is also held by this shake brace:
And this bolt through the coil pack mounting bracket:
I kinda had to play around with all the washers and how I held it in order to get the alternator pulley aligned just right with the others. When I had it where I wanted it, I tighten all three bolts up, starting with the shake brace, then the coil pack bracket bolt, then the bottom bolt holding the idler pulley up. And here's what it looks like when it's all bolted up.
I was surprised at how solid and nicely aligned everything is. I am kinda proud of myself actually, lol. I've done lots of welding/fabrication type work on the farm, but nothing this small/precise. All the stuff I've done before has been, "Oh, get it within an inch or two and we'll beat it into place." Can't exactly do that here....lol, and like I said, I am surprised at how nicely it has worked out.
Next up is a new serpentine belt. After 3 trips to Advance Auto, I finally got one that would fit, and it is 111.5 inches.
Also, the belt will hit the driver side coil pack mounting bracket. It just barely will hit, but a little modification is required. I marked the bracket where the belt was hitting it, and just used a bench grinder to grind it down till the belt will no longer hit it. Also used a sawzaw to cut the little ear off the top corner of the bracket; it isn't used for anything. Not a big deal, but has to be done.
Here is the ear cut off. Sorry for the bad picture quality.
Here is a picture of the belt and bracket after I ground it down.
Also had to make a throttle cable bracket. It was a very ugly and aggravating piece to make, but I finally did it. It's a very custom, jerry rigged piece. It is basically two pieces of flat bar welded together at an angle so that when the bottom piece is bolted to the supercharger, the top piece (which the throttle cable bolts to) is level. There is also a slit in the bottom piece for the metal piece on the throttle cable to slip down in to. Hard to explain, but here are a few of pictures so that you get the idea.
Had to make/put on a water coolant hose (this is the one between the firewall and front passenger side of the supercharger). A couple pieces of 1/2 inch hose, one elbow, and 4 clamps later, and it was on there. No big deal. Picture for reference:
Radiator hose was the same ordeal. I actually just cut/shortened my stock radiator hose and put an elbow in between. Works perfectly.
Had to put a new piece of hose on the front fuel rail crossover. One 18 inch piece of fuel injection fuel hose and 2 clamps later, and that problem was solved.
There was also some vacuum tubing re-routing/splicing that had to be done. Nothing too hard, and you can figure it out on your own pretty easily. I just used some 5/32s vacuum hose and some T's of the same size to do any splicing I needed to. Just use the 5/32s rubber vacuum hose to join the T's and the nylon tube together.
Same goes for the IAC tube and PCV tubing hoses. Just had to cut a few pieces of hose the length I needed. No big deal.
A picture of everything completely done.
Picture of the car on the trailer just before we left for Fastlane to get it tuned. The truck is my brother's 7.3 Stroke (intake, exhaust, chipped).
On the dyno:
FASTLANE MOTORSPORTS Custom Dyno Tune on 96 GT with SVO Supercharger - Will Nicholson
Results:
Track vid
Supercharged 98 Mustang GT vs. F-250 7.3 Powerstroke Diesel
0-60
1998 Mustang GT FRPP/SVO Supercharger 0-60
Feel free to ask any questions about this that you need.
