SOMEBODY HELP ME!

[FIVELITERS]

Ok i have severe problems going on with the stang (95 GT Auto).

Heres the main description of the problem/s:

I can either be driving on the highway at 80 mph, rpms pinned on 3k, or even at a stop light idling at 800, the motor goes
from running perfect to *splat* the rpms just drop to 0, BUT, if i kick the car in its ass (gas pedal) i can fight it to stay on
and not die, BUT when it does die it will NOT, NOT, NOT start again to save the world. This has happened several times
and the wierd thing is that it will go a couple of days without a hitch but then it surfaces again. Now, when shes dead,
EVERYTHING is full on, i've done a battery and alternator test (100% good to go) and a fuel pressure test (both with the
gauge and also just pressing the valve, gasoline showers are fun) the only really wierd thing is that there is NO fire. I mean
no spark at all even from the distributor and ignition coil, BUT she will crank like hell, spinning and all even shaking as if fighting
to start. THEN, (pay attention i deem this as most important) if i leave the key in the "on" position for about 5-10 minutes,
the pcm (located hanging infront/over/next to the coolant overflow bottle) will do a quick double clicking noise as if power
once cut completely is now restored and after that odd electrical clicking, she'll start right up.

HELP ME YOU SONS O' BITCHS!

Especially you 94-95 know-it-alls! Ryclef that means you!

I'm gonna start with replacing the PCM. But its $100+ for the sumbitch.

So if you dont think its that SPEAK UP FAST cause i'm going to the dealership within minutes. :noes:

 

[Stangbangin]

it doesn't sound like a pcm probably...try and pulling the cap on your dizzy and looking inside....I dunno where you live but here sometimes after its rained it'll get humid as shit. Last time my car was acting weird the terminals on the inside of my dizzy were arcing becuz there was a line of falky metal crap that was connecting a few of the terminals. I dunno if it'll help you but worth a shot.

 

[FIVELITERS]

Hmm, ok well there has been quite a bit of moisture/humidity in the North Texas air recently, but i dont
think thats the problem, i looked inside the distributor cap and theres none of this "falky metal crap" in fact its quite spotless.

If this doesnt sound like a pcm problem, then what does? What would the common symptoms of a pcm problem be? I might
have described it wrong. Anyways, i already bought a new one, just over 100 bucks, so its not that bad, i'm hoping this will
solve my ailments. :-\

Speak up guys/gals, be my hero.

 

[scarface]

clear your inbox Foo! I have been trying to PM you for a month!

 

[Mr. OAM]

The money that can be saved with a $20 volt/ohm meter made in China, or get a real one.


A volt/ohm meter is your eyes into your electrical system. It lets you know if the correct amount of electricity is flowing through a wire or if a part is bad due to resistance being out of spec.

With the V/O meter you can check to see if electricity is going to your ECM as it should when the car cuts out. Then you can check to see if the ECM is sending the correct voltage to the correct components. If you find a component that is interrupting the flow of the correct amount of electricity then you can check the resistance of that part to see if it is bad.

Yeah, it's that simple, many times. You can also use an analog (needle, not digital) V/O meter to retrieve trouble codes from you car.



Steve

 

[FIVELITERS]

clear your inbox Foo! I have been trying to PM you for a month!

LOL! Sorry man! *clears*

The money that can be saved with a $20 volt/ohm meter made in China, or get a real one.


A volt/ohm meter is your eyes into your electrical system. It lets you know if the correct amount of electricity is flowing through a wire or if a part is bad due to resistance being out of spec.

With the V/O meter you can check to see if electricity is going to your ECM as it should when the car cuts out. Then you can check to see if the ECM is sending the correct voltage to the correct components. If you find a component that is interrupting the flow of the correct amount of electricity then you can check the resistance of that part to see if it is bad.

Yeah, it's that simple, many times. You can also use an analog (needle, not digital) V/O meter to retrieve trouble codes from you car.



Steve

Nice! This sounds great. It matches up exactly with what the guy thats helping me with my car (my girl's uncle) is saying. He's like a genius and he's made it his duty to memorize the entire haynes manual tonight cause he worked for chevy, then we will get a v/o meter needle tomorrow. LET THE MADNESS BEGIN!

:dancing6:

 

[Slow95Cobra]

does it only cut off when its hot/operating temp? kinda sounds like the ignition module to me. kinda like the old tfi's on the fox bodys. and the computer in between the coolant jug and rad. is the Constant Control Relay Module... it can cause problems too... i wouldnt dive for a PCM yet.... they usually arent the problem

 

[stang4u2nv]

it could be a bad distributor..... or pick up inside the distributor....

 

[ranger50toy]

What does the CCRM do? I had the same problem at one time. I took it in to the dealer and they replaceced the ground straps. Something to look at.

 

[Slow95Cobra]

ccrm controls all kinds of stupid stuff, cooling fan and etc. id have to get the book out to look up EVERYTHING it does... if you wanna know ill look

 

[1FastGT]

does it only cut off when its hot/operating temp? kinda sounds like the ignition module to me. kinda like the old tfi's on the fox bodys. and the computer in between the coolant jug and rad. is the Constant Control Relay Module... it can cause problems too... i wouldnt dive for a PCM yet.... they usually arent the problem

im going to say the distributor, theres a sensor called the hall effect sensor, which operates as a Crank and Camshaft sensor in one. when the motor gets to operating temp and starts to ping/backfire or shut off. and will not start for a long time. thats the sensor. your better off going to bennet, autozone and getting a remanufactured one for like 120 bucks. or just upgrade to a msd for like 350. its up to you. just replace the whole distributor when you take apart the distributor to replace the sensor, the bearings inside will not seat right again and the shaft will wobble and not operate properly.

CCRM.
The CCRM (Constant Control relay Module)
CCRM interfaces with the PCM (Power Control Module) to control the cooling fans, a/c clutch and fuel pump operation. The CCRM also incorporates electronic engine control power relay to supply power to the EEC-IV system.

 

[ranger50toy]

I have been having issues with the A/C clutch, and the high speed fan never seems to come on. This may be the problem.

 

[1FastGT]

check your relays and switches first. before you go and replace the CCRM

 

[FIVELITERS]

Lol, thanks for all the help guys. O0

So far we have REPLACED the CCRM and the ignition module, and still nothing So now we're going with the
entire distributor like some of you suggested. The pick up coil and the dizzy look pretty worn out but the cap
itself is like brand spanking new, should i just replace the entire distributor or...what? lol.

Keep em coming guys! ;D

 

[FIVELITERS]

check your relays and switches first. before you go and replace the CCRM

Explain?

 

[ryclef331]

Sorry for the lateness but my two guesses (the CCRM and the TFI module) you tried. My next bet would be the pick up in the dizzy or a grounding strap.

 

[FIVELITERS]

Sorry for the lateness but my two guesses (the CCRM and the TFI module) you tried. My next bet would be the pick up in the dizzy or a grounding strap.

Lol, no prob, thanks for you input.

It was the pick up, we just replaced the whole damn distributor lol, and bam she cranked right up!

All i got to do now is adjust the timing and shes good as new!

MAN, i cant count how many times i said i was gonna sell her lol, funny stuff, cause i'm NOT. ;D

 

[Hybrid Freak]

Glad you found the problem. :thumb:

 

[scarface]

HAHA...see what happens when you dont visit here on the regular.

 

[1FastGT]

Sorry for the lateness but my two guesses (the CCRM and the TFI module) you tried. My next bet would be the pick up in the dizzy or a grounding strap.

Lol, no prob, thanks for you input.

It was the pick up, we just replaced the whole damn distributor lol, and bam she cranked right up!

All i got to do now is adjust the timing and shes good as new!

MAN, i cant count how many times i said i was gonna sell her lol, funny stuff, cause i'm NOT. ;D

ha i did the same thing i said i was gonna sell it. and i had this problem for a WEEK. and i tested a few other things went with my gut and replace the dizzy, and it was good.

P.S. the main problem with your distributor is the Hall Effect Sensor, when it gets hot it malfunctions, and shuts the motor down becuase it cannot detect the distributor shaft.

check your relays and switches first. before you go and replace the CCRM

Explain?

Pick up a chiltons manual at your nearest auto parts store it does step by step very detailed instructions how to test relays and switches. :slap: