I'm going to add my .02 here.
FWIW - I have bumpsteer adjustable outer tie rod ends on all my lowered cars. However, it has been noted here that finding an alignment shop that knows what the heck they're doing with them is pretty rare. I've actually considered just buying my own bumpsteer gauge and doing it myself. There is one shop here in town that does a decent job, and they're not far from Baer Brakes where I buy the tie-rods. (which is probably why) The reduction in bumpsteer has been tremendous. You can get it sorta close by eyeballing it and trying to get the pin in your tie rod and your ball joint to travel in the same arc. Start out by trying to get them to sit parallel at ride height, and go from there. Oh, and be careful of the "cheaper" bumpsteer tie rods. They usually come with some $.25 grade 5 bolt to attach to your spindle. You'll need to drill the spindle to make them fit since there is a taper cut into it. Plus, I just don't trust my suspension to a $.25 bolt. Conversely, the more expensive tie rods (i.e. Baer, Steeda, etc...) have a 9140 tapered chromoly pin included. This is a direct bolt-in, and makes me feel much better about the construction of my front suspension.
Ultimately, I'd go for the MM control arms for all the same reasons that have been noted in this post. However, they are pretty expensive, and I would completely understand why you would go with '03 control arms instead. I would verify that you aren't going to have any tire interference problems prior to purchasing the forward-offset control arms as well.
Matt, have you considered just swapping the whole k-member and a-arms for something like a D&D, MMR, etc.?
Paul.
