Stang still overheating!! Need Help!!

justi88

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OK this is going to be long. My stang in the past 2 years has been overheating alot and has blown 2 headgaskets already. The last time the heads were warped so I had them surfaced (correct me if i said it wrong). The radiator had some leaks so I had that fixed also and had the engine put together again. Not even a week has passed and the car is overheating again. I don't understand this the fan has been bypassed to work all the time, the car runs like 30 min. and its starts overheating. Yesterday it reached the L of NORMAL. The weird thing is everytime i pressed the clutch the needle would go down a little bit and then when i gave it throttle it would come back up again. I'm really pissed off cause my car was in the shop for a long time and the problem just keeps on coming again and again. Mechanics don't know what could be the problem.

Maybe some of you have seen this before and can help me out with overheating issue?
 

matholland

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Re: Stang still overheating! Need Help!

get a different gauge, it may not be getting as hot as you think...whats your timing set at? 10 is base..on mine if i go more than 12 it gets hot
 
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justi88

justi88

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I'm going to have the timing checked and I'm searching for a water temp gauge... don't really know about aftermarket gauges, which is better a electric or mechanical gauge?
 

Dr.Scientist

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I'm having the same problem. Here's what I've been told to do: Get an aftermarket gauge. Just get the least expensive water temperature gauge from Autometer. I'm sure its quality will far surpass that of the factory and will give perfectly accurate temperature readings. If my car is actually overheating, Then I am going to just replace the radiator with the 03 Cobra radiator. Its aluminum, and its considered the best cooling radiator you can buy for these cars. After that the thing shouldn't overheat anymore.

Only thing I don't know is, what temp are these cars supposed to run at, exactly? The factory thermostat was 193 degrees Farenheit. So I guess somewhere around there.
 

ivan12

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Did you re-use the old water pump? Who ever fixed the leaking radiator, did they make sure it wasn't clogged? Have you burped the system, do you know how to? If he's already blown 2 head gaskets then maybe the gauge wasn't lying, but still I'd recommend you get an aftearket one for insurance.
 

rz5.0

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car should run at about 210 if you blew two gaskets you got issues. felectrical are better and more are accurate but mecanical work fine and are cheaper.
 
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justi88

justi88

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the car is working without a thermostat right now... all the a*s$$$$ mechanics here say nothing happens if you don't use it but I'm ordering one anyway... yes the radiator isn't clogged and the water pump is also a new one i got the first time the gasket blew... by burping the system you mean by eliminating all the air out of it? I personally haven't done it yet but the mechanic said there was good flow of coolant.

First thing I'm getting is the thermostat and mechanical gauge from autometer. What else could be the problem with the heating? Something internal?
 

toyman

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Before you do anything else ensure that the ground from the battery to the engine is solid. That ground is critical for all engine sensors. After you have cleaned that connection do the same with the chassis ground by the radiator neck. Optional after that is to put another ground (braided strap) from the engine to the chassis.
 

ivan12

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Burp the system, it might look like the coolant is flowing fine but you could have air pockets trapped in your engine that'll make the temps rise.
 

ivan12

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Put it on ramps or park on an uphill street, fill up the radiator, with the rad cap off let the car run until it heats up. If there are air pockets then you will see the coolant spill and go down again, refill it 3-4 times or until it stops spitting out coolant. A lot of people and some mechanics will not do this and they just fill it up with coolant and go. Not burping it will make hot air pockets move around inside and not give you accurate temp readings and or puke coolant when you come to a stop.
 
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justi88

justi88

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yes I found a nice pod that goes in the steering column and a cobalt autometer gauge... both kind of expensive shipped to my country ( 150$ :confused1:) but price ive got to pay for living so far jeje... where can i get the thermostat? ebay?
 

BLOWN 95GT

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rz5.0 said:
You need a thermostat. It will cause your car to run hot. They are wrong you need it. Get a 180* one.
right you really need a thermostat. without one the coolant in your motor just keeps circulating through the hot motor and never has time to cool down so it gets hotter and hotter until you overheat, especially when you are sitting still in the driveway where you don't have plenty of air running through the radiator.
 
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justi88

justi88

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okay i think i can find a 180 thermostat for my stang here, i already have my fan on all the time... my mechanic suggested me to put another fan in front of the radiator to help with the cooling
 

rz5.0

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No you don't need it.you might need a new radiator. Wait till you get your gauge. My car ran on the A most of the time during the summer here and it was fine.
 
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justi88

justi88

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im going to have to wait for the gauge... the last day i drove it reached the L when i got home, i turned the car off and it suddenly raised to the red level, i got scared so i turned it up again and wait for the engine to cool down a little until i shut it down. I opened the hood and was pretty hot but in the past ive heard boiling sounds, this time it was ok without the boiling jeje. I just hope it isnt anything serious again, has me really pissed off, problem after problem and stupid mechanics who dont have a clue what to do.
 

toyman

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BLOWN 95GT said:
rz5.0 said:
You need a thermostat. It will cause your car to run hot. They are wrong you need it. Get a 180* one.
right you really need a thermostat. without one the coolant in your motor just keeps circulating through the hot motor and never has time to cool down so it gets hotter and hotter until you overheat, especially when you are sitting still in the driveway where you don't have plenty of air running through the radiator.

What utter BS. The T-stat purpose is to allow the engine to warm up quickly. Once the T-stat is fully open the water flows through the system exactly the same as if the T-stat wasn't there. Yes the temps will climb sitting in traffic on hot days but that's where the high speed fan kicks in.

To the OP, have you checked/replaced the rad cap. It's important that it holds to 16 psi.
 

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