Stang still overheating!! Need Help!!

[justi88]

I havent checked that out and i last time i saw the cap said 13psi

 

[rz5.0]

You need a thermostat. It will cause your car to run hot. They are wrong you need it. Get a 180* one.

right you really need a thermostat. without one the coolant in your motor just keeps circulating through the hot motor and never has time to cool down so it gets hotter and hotter until you overheat, especially when you are sitting still in the driveway where you don't have plenty of air running through the radiator.

What utter BS. The T-stat purpose is to allow the engine to warm up quickly. Once the T-stat is fully open the water flows through the system exactly the same as if the T-stat wasn't there. Yes the temps will climb sitting in traffic on hot days but that's where the high speed fan kicks in.

To the OP, have you checked/replaced the rad cap. It's important that it holds to 16 psi.

r u serious. not going to argue but you are wrong.

 

[rz5.0]

well fyi.
something i found real quick.

"While the thermostat is closed, there is no flow of coolant in the radiator loop, and water flow is instead redirected back through the engine, allowing it to warm up rapidly while also avoiding hotspots within the engine. The thermostat stays closed until the coolant temperature reaches the nominal thermostat opening temperature. The thermostat then progressively opens as the coolant temperature increases to the optimum operating temperature, increasing the coolant flow to the radiator. Once the optimum operating temperature is reached, the thermostat progressively increases or decreases its opening in response to temperature changes, dynamically balancing the coolant recirculation flow and coolant flow to the radiator to maintain the engine temperature in the optimum range as engine heat output, vehicle speed, and outside ambient temperature change. Under normal operating conditions the thermostat is open to about half of its stroke travel, so that it can open further or reduce its opening to react to changes in operating conditions. A correctly designed thermostat will never be fully open or fully closed while the engine is operating normally, or overheating or overcooling would occur. For instance,

If more cooling is required, e.g., in response to an increase in engine heat output which causes the coolant temperature to rise, the thermostat will increase its opening to allow more coolant to flow through the radiator and increase engine cooling. If the thermostat were already fully open, then it would not be able to increase the flow of coolant to the radiator, hence there would be no more cooling capacity available, and the increase in heat output by the engine would result in overheating.
If less cooling is required, e.g., in response to decrease in ambient temperature which causes the coolant temperature to fall, the thermostat will decrease its opening to restrict the coolant flow through the radiator and reduce engine cooling. If the thermostat were already fully closed, then it would not be able to reduce cooling in response to the fall in coolant temperature, and the engine temperature would fall below the optimum operating range."

 

[Dr.Scientist]

Put it on ramps or park on an uphill street, fill up the radiator, with the rad cap off let the car run until it heats up. If there are air pockets then you will see the coolant spill and go down again, refill it 3-4 times or until it stops spitting out coolant. A lot of people (and some mechanics) will not do this, and they just fill it up with coolant and go. Not burping it will make hot air pockets move around inside and not give you accurate temp readings and or puke coolant when you come to a stop.

Thank you. I never knew you needed to do this.

im going to have to wait for the gauge...

Hey just get an IR thermometer instead and point it at the thermostat housing when the car is getting too hot. If you really need to know what your temps are. I bought one for about $20 shipped.

http://www.amazon.com/Temperature-Infrared-Thermometer-Laser-Sight/dp/B002YE3FS4

That is the one I got, and it works great. Then you can use it on other cars too if you have to.

 

[Dr.Scientist]

You need a thermostat. It will cause your car to run hot. They are wrong you need it. Get a 180* one.

right you really need a thermostat. without one the coolant in your motor just keeps circulating through the hot motor and never has time to cool down so it gets hotter and hotter until you overheat, especially when you are sitting still in the driveway where you don't have plenty of air running through the radiator.

What utter BS. The T-stat purpose is to allow the engine to warm up quickly. Once the T-stat is fully open the water flows through the system exactly the same as if the T-stat wasn't there. Yes the temps will climb sitting in traffic on hot days but that's where the high speed fan kicks in.

To the OP, have you checked/replaced the rad cap. It's important that it holds to 16 psi.

The thermostat allows water to sit in the radiator long enough to get cool. Without it, the water will just keep flowing and not stopping in the radiator to get cool. There are a couple vehicles I've seen that can go without one. Then again I've seen some that will destroy themselves without one. Me personally, I wouldn't risk it. They come from the factory with thermostats for a reason.

 

[justi88]

Put it on ramps or park on an uphill street, fill up the radiator, with the rad cap off let the car run until it heats up. If there are air pockets then you will see the coolant spill and go down again, refill it 3-4 times or until it stops spitting out coolant. A lot of people (and some mechanics) will not do this, and they just fill it up with coolant and go. Not burping it will make hot air pockets move around inside and not give you accurate temp readings and or puke coolant when you come to a stop.

Thank you. I never knew you needed to do this.

im going to have to wait for the gauge...

Hey just get an IR thermometer instead and point it at the thermostat housing when the car is getting too hot. If you really need to know what your temps are. I bought one for about $20 shipped.

http://www.amazon.com/Temperature-Infrared-Thermometer-Laser-Sight/dp/B002YE3FS4

That is the one I got, and it works great. Then you can use it on other cars too if you have to.

I prefer getting the gauge really, just checked out the link of the IR thermometer and the shipping quote to my country is about the same i got for the gauge, besides the gauge will have a purpose in the stang and look good but the IR thermometer would be like a 1 time use only.

 

[toyman]

You need a thermostat. It will cause your car to run hot. They are wrong you need it. Get a 180* one.

right you really need a thermostat. without one the coolant in your motor just keeps circulating through the hot motor and never has time to cool down so it gets hotter and hotter until you overheat, especially when you are sitting still in the driveway where you don't have plenty of air running through the radiator.

What utter BS. The T-stat purpose is to allow the engine to warm up quickly. Once the T-stat is fully open the water flows through the system exactly the same as if the T-stat wasn't there. Yes the temps will climb sitting in traffic on hot days but that's where the high speed fan kicks in.

To the OP, have you checked/replaced the rad cap. It's important that it holds to 16 psi.

r u serious. not going to argue but you are wrong.

Re read what I said. Your next post only confirms what I said. I did not make any assumptions about the T-stat being only partially open and changing with temps. My statement was if the T-stat is fully open the water flows the same whether there is a T-stat or not. The stock T-stat from Ford starts to open at about 192* and isn't fully open until 205*. Once the temp exceeds 205* the T-stat cannot regulate the water flow.

 

[Steven]

I take it the fan kicks on like it's supposed to? I had similar issues. Fan would spazz out and it would kick on randomly. Was the CCRM

 

[Dr.Scientist]

I prefer getting the gauge really, just checked out the link of the IR thermometer and the shipping quote to my country is about the same i got for the gauge, besides the gauge will have a purpose in the stang and look good but the IR thermometer would be like a 1 time use only.

Ok but you see what I'm saying though. The gauge will be useful, yes. But there must be somewhere in your country where you can buy one of those without having to pay the high shipping costs. Somewhere that is already in the country.

 

[rz5.0]

You need a thermostat. It will cause your car to run hot. They are wrong you need it. Get a 180* one.

right you really need a thermostat. without one the coolant in your motor just keeps circulating through the hot motor and never has time to cool down so it gets hotter and hotter until you overheat, especially when you are sitting still in the driveway where you don't have plenty of air running through the radiator.

What utter BS. The T-stat purpose is to allow the engine to warm up quickly. Once the T-stat is fully open the water flows through the system exactly the same as if the T-stat wasn't there. Yes the temps will climb sitting in traffic on hot days but that's where the high speed fan kicks in.

To the OP, have you checked/replaced the rad cap. It's important that it holds to 16 psi.

r u serious. not going to argue but you are wrong.

Re read what I said. Your next post only confirms what I said. I did not make any assumptions about the T-stat being only partially open and changing with temps. My statement was if the T-stat is fully open the water flows the same whether there is a T-stat or not. The stock T-stat from Ford starts to open at about 192* and isn't fully open until 205*. Once the temp exceeds 205* the T-stat cannot regulate the water flow.

maybe my reading comprehension is off but from your post i understood that it wount matter if he has one or not its only use is to warm up the car quicker.

 

[toyman]

A T-stat is required. It serves several purposes as noted in your FYI. What is generally mistaken is the notion that it regulates temperature. I suppose by extension one could say regulating water flows has an affect on engine coolant temperatures but only between the closed and fully open positions. Installing a 180* or a 160* or none will not address an overheating (temps above 225*) issue. This post explicitly dealt with an overheating problem that peeps wanted to correct by installing a differently rated T-stat or removing the T-stat altogether.

 

[justi88]

Thanks for the info rz5.0 very useful, im just going to get a new t-stat. I was talking with my mechanic and explaining the problem he said it isnt normal that the gauge moves to L than when i press the clutch it goes down and on gas it rises again. He also says that the t-stat depends on the car, he has seen cars run perfectly without them as also see the run like sh$$ without them. So Im getting to start by looking for the IR thermometer and if i cant find one just order a new gauge and see what to do from there.

 

[extreme_21]

Thanks for the info rz5.0 very useful, im just going to get a new t-stat. I was talking with my mechanic and explaining the problem he said it isnt normal that the gauge moves to L than when i press the clutch it goes down and on gas it rises again. He also says that the t-stat depends on the car, he has seen cars run perfectly without them as also see the run like sh$$ without them. So Im getting to start by looking for the IR thermometer and if i cant find one just order a new gauge and see what to do from there.

When you press the cluth, load is removed from the engine which will reduce the temp. When your on the throttle, temp will rise because engine is under load. The stat is just used to raise the engine temp into the operating temp faster. This is done to achieve a temp that the motor was tested at for operating, in other words bearing clearance/valvetrain/pistons/oil thickness,..etc. Having no stat in place does not have any relation to overheating. Noticed in one of your either posts you mentioned hearing a bubbling noise from the cooling system, this can indicate wrong water:coolant/mixture ratio (to much water or even no coolant just water in system, water has a lower boiling point than coolant has, therefor the water boils and you start to get air pockets in the system..hense the bubbles heard). If the ratio is good and there's bubbling when at idle or under throttle you hear bubbling in the heater core, there's air in the system. The system wasn't bled good, air entering system either from combustion, rad cap or even bleed hose from rad to overflow tank. System should be pressure tested then vacuum bled to garantee a good closed system.

I had a problem I chased for a good year, kept thinking my aluminum rad was the problem. I know this prob isn't your sitaution but just to show how such a small thing can cause an affect. I kept overheating after my aluminum rad install. I pressure tested the system, was good, I vacuum bled the system, system held vacuum for 2 hours with no loss, to me all was perfect, but kept overheating and bubbling heard in rad with no leaks. I'd check the system, no combustion in coolant and system was full of air again and again. Ended up being the small hose from the rad to the overflow bottle was allowing air into the system. On the stock rad there wasn't any clamp so I didn't put one on the aluminum rad. System would push coolant into the overflow bottle when hot, and suck it back in when temps reduced, just when it sucked coolant back in the hose would allow air into the system. Clamped the small hose and all problems went away...btw rad cap was tested and good

Before buying any gauages and jumping to conclusion. Fit a original temp stat, 205F or even a 195F in place and a 70:30 coolant: water ratio. Pressure test the system, then vacuum bleed it. Run the car to operating temp and see if the fans come on. if your still hearing bubbling, verify all hoses are tight and no leaks, (like I had with the small overflow hose), check the coolant for combustion(there's a test kit for this, I have a Snap-on one). Do all this and let us know what the results are...

I live in Canada so I have no clue where you could get a stat from out in Bolivia, can't you go to a auto parts store and they order it?? They might be able to cross-reference the parts to something they have in stock.. I mean I can order parts from my local parts store for cars that aren't available in my market that have been imported..


..Good luck

 

[justi88]

Ok i went searching today and found a motorcraft 192F thermostat for the stang, going to buy it tommorow. I have always used water mainly in the radiator and that could be the problem of the overtank boiling. How do you do the pressure test and coolant combustion? By vacuum bleeding you mean burping the system??

Jeje I know its alot of questions but if someone can help me out with the proper steps.

 

[justi88]

Ive noticed my radiator is different from the oem one, my dad just told me he had this radiator made here... going to take some pics of it so you guys can see it. Another question my coolant tanks is leaking, ive seen its too expensive to import the coolant tank, can i just adapt one from another car?

 

[toyman]

Are you referring to the coolant reservoir (Ford calls it a degas bottle) by the CCRM. Any container will work. Was the leaking one leaking to the point where the bottle was empty? If it was that may be the source of your problem as the system would be drawing air into the radiator/engine on every cooling cycle.

 

[justi88]

it has a small leak at the bottom of the reservoir but not that big to leave it empty, ive noticed that when i turn the engine on i see small leaks but when its off the water level dosent go down that much

 

[extreme_21]

it has a small leak at the bottom of the reservoir but not that big to leave it empty, ive noticed that when i turn the engine on i see small leaks but when its off the water level dosent go down that much

That small leak from the bottle is most prob the overflow hose, if the leak is at the bottom and only when running, I'd check that small hose and fit a hose clamp to the rad side and the bottle side. If the bottle is cracked, you can use any kind of a bottle for it's not under pressure just under heat from the coolant temp. Just make sure if you use a random bottle that the overflow hose is at the bottom of the bottle or you will feed air into the system.