SikkStang
New Member
I found that I saved a picture of the craigslist add on my computer, and they are BBK pulleys.
Steeda Under Pulley | Charging
- Thread starter JerZeyStangz
- Start date
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JerZeyStangz
Well-Known Member
Yep I knew it.
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JerZeyStangz
Well-Known Member
**Update**
My 9 year old battery finally gave up the ghost last night. I had my headlights on for about 10-20 minutes aligning my NEW headlights I purchased from late model restoration and I tried to start the car with almost a dead start. I replaced the battery with a ordinary battery so all is well.
Thoughts:
I drove the car to work with the new battery installed with no hiccup. My car still managed to save the pre-set radio stations that I did a long time ago, its funny how the small details make you happy. I still have to reset the clock for everything to go back to normal. Now, the first generation steeda pulley's for the mod motor really do suck for city driving. They are undercharging even with the stock alternator pulley. It looks like its hitting just 12v at idle. I work in a densely populated area and having idle charging issues is not confidence inspiring to say the least.
I want to pull the trigger on a redesigned set that Steeda offers now but since it is over 200.00's it is keeping me away. Atleast I gave the old school steeda pulleys a chance, I am going to get removed and put the stockers back on a long with my bushing kit (sway bar and end-links).
My 9 year old battery finally gave up the ghost last night. I had my headlights on for about 10-20 minutes aligning my NEW headlights I purchased from late model restoration and I tried to start the car with almost a dead start. I replaced the battery with a ordinary battery so all is well.
Thoughts:
I drove the car to work with the new battery installed with no hiccup. My car still managed to save the pre-set radio stations that I did a long time ago, its funny how the small details make you happy. I still have to reset the clock for everything to go back to normal. Now, the first generation steeda pulley's for the mod motor really do suck for city driving. They are undercharging even with the stock alternator pulley. It looks like its hitting just 12v at idle. I work in a densely populated area and having idle charging issues is not confidence inspiring to say the least.
I want to pull the trigger on a redesigned set that Steeda offers now but since it is over 200.00's it is keeping me away. Atleast I gave the old school steeda pulleys a chance, I am going to get removed and put the stockers back on a long with my bushing kit (sway bar and end-links).
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JerZeyStangz
Well-Known Member
Ok. I was browsing the net and found this link on summit. I am going to measure pulley sizes. This right now is best solution because I do not have to upgrade my alternator and its only 12-13 bucks.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-115/overview/
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-115/overview/
Wont hurt to give it a shot
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JerZeyStangz
Well-Known Member
Steeda underdrive pulley 67mm
OEM pulley 60-61mm
Forgive me for my dirty alternator, the belt was just recently changed after like 5-6 years. There is a ton of belt dust on it lol.
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ttocs
Post Whore
seriously stop wasting your money on pullies. Save the money to put towards heads/cam or some good power to get more bang for the buck.
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JerZeyStangz
Well-Known Member
Ever heard of the song, "I can't stop, I wont stop" because I am a man on a mission. When your engineer by occupation you always find solutions to problems. I do not think anyone has ever been down this road because people give up to easily. Secondly, I haven't purchased anything yet so nothing was wasted. Thirdly, it would be cool to find out the answer so if someone wants to know what it took to remedy the problem they can reference this thread.
Overall, I really do like the pulleys as a mentioned before in this thread. I am getting decent city mileage with my 3.73 gears and UDP's but they dont charge efficiently at idle. Lastly, I want to go to track and see what the car runs with all these bolt on's before I go H/C/I. Its all about the journey...
Overall, I really do like the pulleys as a mentioned before in this thread. I am getting decent city mileage with my 3.73 gears and UDP's but they dont charge efficiently at idle. Lastly, I want to go to track and see what the car runs with all these bolt on's before I go H/C/I. Its all about the journey...
Don't stop believing.
My experiece:
94 GT, track car, only electronics are gauges, brake lights, ignition/ECU, and cooling fan. BBK U/D pulleys are great, no charging issues, zero problem with them.
95 GT, daily, no power locks/windows, ignition/ECU, HVAC, stereo (OEM), lights, and cooling fan. Stock pulleys, when I run the AC for 15+min in the MAX setting, full blast, I can watch my voltage gauge go from straight up pointer, to the 'O' in NORMAL. It stays there, but it obviously has a lot of draw on the electrical. Normal situation the needle is straight up. So the stock electrical is probably at capacity with the stock pulleys. I would not put the aftermarket pulleys on a driver.
94 GT, track car, only electronics are gauges, brake lights, ignition/ECU, and cooling fan. BBK U/D pulleys are great, no charging issues, zero problem with them.
95 GT, daily, no power locks/windows, ignition/ECU, HVAC, stereo (OEM), lights, and cooling fan. Stock pulleys, when I run the AC for 15+min in the MAX setting, full blast, I can watch my voltage gauge go from straight up pointer, to the 'O' in NORMAL. It stays there, but it obviously has a lot of draw on the electrical. Normal situation the needle is straight up. So the stock electrical is probably at capacity with the stock pulleys. I would not put the aftermarket pulleys on a driver.
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JerZeyStangz
Well-Known Member
Great perspective, and showing two different scenarios. I have premium mustang GT with power everything and Mach 460 stereo system. I believe the electrical system is at full capacity like you stated. I am going to try this 12 dollar pulley fix and see if I can have my cake and eat it too.
I learned a great deal about the charging systems in our cars and confident to find another solution. The alternator is 100-105 amp unit and the reason why some people have charging issues and others don't is based on how powerful there alternator is from factory. I know the newer GTs have 110Amp alternators which is why they don't notice any effects at idle.
The factory designs the pulley system to be 3:1 ratio to run the electronics without hiccup. What the racing pulleys do is bring this ratio down 1:75:1 so there is enough charging for the staging lanes when your about to race. There is a simple formula to get this ratio is dividing the crank pulley size by alternator size. And to get proper charging capacity you need to multiply by RPM to get alternator RPM output.
6" crank/2" alternator pulley = 3 * 800rpm idle which is 2400rpms.
The 2400 RPMS is how fast the alternator is spinning at idle.
Since my car has a low idle because it's a automatic it spins at 500-600rpms. This bring my alternator RPMS by 1500-1800rpms.
I just need to find a proper pulley that can give me that sweet spot ratio close to 3:1, 2.5:1 would be ideal and that's what 1.9" pulley will do. I'm going to test it out and see if it works. If it doesn't, I will go back to stock and get rid of my pulleys. I just love them for gas savings and pep of the engine right now.
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ttocs
Post Whore
seems like a lot of time invested to gain a few hp at the most.
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JerZeyStangz
Well-Known Member
It is. The reason for all this is I want to see how fast the car is with full bolt ons at the track untuned, and then with a tune. I normally dont drive it everyday so I can careless but my daily is down this summer for big repairs so I've been driving the car ALOT again. Its funny, now that I am driving it frequently I remember all those small issues it has...the price of being a modder/enthusiasts. Oh well right...
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JerZeyStangz
Well-Known Member
The turn out was great. I ordered the pulley from summit and got it installed. It now charges at idle correctly when warmed up and doesn't dim as much when the accessories are on at night. Basically its the middle ground for charging and keeping it on the performance side. Only small mod that had to be done was use a small washer on the alternator shaft so that pulley doesn't rub on the alternator casing. The inner diameter was perfect size. If anyone wants to know it was a Power master 49mm deep grooved alternator pulley. If I want it to be absolute perfect I will need to bump the idle just a hare since my car is a auto. The end lol.
4.6Stangrage
Member
I am thinking of using pullies on my '01 cobra. If I am not mistaken, because of my BAMA tune it idles at 1200 rpm. Think i would have to get the specified pulley in this case? Do you guys recommend against BBK UDP's? If I am not mistaken Jerzey, you are using a gen 1 UDP kit with a Power master 49mm deep grooved alternator pulley instead of the steeda alt pulley?
ttocs
Post Whore
1200 rpm idle?!
the5.ohh
Legend
4.6Stangrage
Member
Yeah I realized I was wrong. Its more like 950. I thought It was higher. Yeah I agree 1200 would be insane.
Nighttrain
Well-Known Member
Im just going to throw this out there and i know its been said multiple times by multiple people......
The benifit you get from udp dont out way the drawbacks, higher strain on your accessories and higher engine temps. Some people still put them on knowing these things but imo you could spend your money and get better gains on something else.
