Suspension set up

[GT3FC]

Alright for those of you who dont know I drive a 2002 Mustang Gt vert. My car is a DD but it does also see the drag strip. My end goal is to have a street able high 10 second car. That being said I'm looking at suspension right now, and to be honest I dont really know the first thing about suspension. I have done alot of research on the subject but I am hoping to get more of a personalized answer for my particular set up. Right now I am looking at coil over sets or lowering springs. I understand that the coil over setups have much more adjust-ability (ie. ride height, Spring preload, and dampening and rebound). I obviously can understand what ride hight is, but I dont know what spring preload and dampening and rebound is. anyone care to help me out with this?

Also if anyone has any suggestions for any susspension parts that you think would fit in with my build that would be awesome! (like I said before I'm very new to the suspension world)

 

[Ferocious]

10 second car?

I would first do a nice set of upper and lowers. Team Z is a good brand that many drag racers use. Make sure you get that power to the ground.

Definitely a coil over suspension for both the weight reduction and adjustability factor.
If you want a good drag spring, get anything withing the 150-225 lbs range. For daily driving around 250-325 lbs would be nice.
Or just find a median between the two and you won't sacrifice too much of either.

Compression and rebound are pretty self explanatory. To put it briefly, compression is when the shock and spring compresses and rebound is when it comes back up.
You can get adjustable struts to either soften or stiffen this process. Normally when drag racing you want a soft compression and during autocross or such you want a stiffer setup.
I daily my car so right now my struts are set exactly in the middle at 5.

If you also want to save some extra weight (in your quest for 10's), i'd recommend swapping a tubular K-member and A-arms.
& of course make sure to reinforce your rear end. No point in beefing up your suspension if your rear end explodes while making a pass.

I'm probably missing a few things but I'm sure someone else will chime in.

Good luck :thumbsup:

 

[GT3FC]

10 second car?

I would first do a nice set of upper and lowers. Team Z is a good brand that many drag racers use. Make sure you get that power to the ground.

Definitely a coil over suspension for both the weight reduction and adjustability factor.
If you want a good drag spring, get anything withing the 150-225 lbs range. For daily driving around 250-325 lbs would be nice.
Or just find a median between the two and you won't sacrifice too much of either.

Compression and rebound are pretty self explanatory. To put it briefly, compression is when the shock and spring compresses and rebound is when it comes back up.
You can get adjustable struts to either soften or stiffen this process. Normally when drag racing you want a soft compression and during autocross or such you want a stiffer setup.
I daily my car so right now my struts are set exactly in the middle at 5.

If you also want to save some extra weight (in your quest for 10's), i'd recommend swapping a tubular K-member and A-arms.
& of course make sure to reinforce your rear end. No point in beefing up your suspension if your rear end explodes while making a pass.

I'm probably missing a few things but I'm sure someone else will chime in.

Good luck :thumbsup:

Thanks for the info man. I just threw out the high 10's more realistically when all said and done I'll probably be it the mid 12's maybe high 11's. A man can dream though cant he? haha

 

[Musturd]

I'd go with team z everything being a street car they make a lot of nice stuff street friendly the new street beast kit for the rear is a killer setup . I will most likely be switching to these . I went with 175lb springs upfront with strange 10ways my car has zero issues with weight transfer . My sig pic is for show it's actually quite but higher now in the front. For the rear I would just keep it simple one coil cut stock springs with some strange shocks out back it's tried tested and true . Cheap and effective as well . Just with that alone in your car with some gears and usual bolt ons the thing should be running high 12's looking at ur sig it shouldn't be a problem if you can powershift and got some nice slicks.

 

[GT3FC]

I'd go with team z everything being a street car they make a lot of nice stuff street friendly the new street beast kit for the rear is a killer setup . I will most likely be switching to these . I went with 175lb springs upfront with strange 10ways my car has zero issues with weight transfer . My sig pic is for show it's actually quite but higher now in the front. For the rear I would just keep it simple one coil cut stock springs with some strange shocks out back it's tried tested and true . Cheap and effective as well . Just with that alone in your car with some gears and usual bolt ons the thing should be running high 12's looking at ur sig it shouldn't be a problem if you can powershift and got some nice slicks.

haha I guess I should mention that I plan on going single turbo...with forged internals of course

 

[Musturd]

First things first build the chassis .

 

[GT3FC]

First things first build the chassis .

oh yea defiantly I have a long way to go before I can go turbo haha

 

[Musturd]

yea it's always good to build a nicely setup car suspension wise first then add power and re dial in the suspension to hook and perform with the new power. Are you going to do through floor subframe connectors or just like mm kit ? Or stifflers fit system

 

[GT3FC]

I'm not entirely sure....it all depends on what I can afford..Right now the car has some bolt on sub frame connectors that were on it when i bought it. As far as I'm concerned they arnt worth anything unless they are welded. Right now my big thing is getting a probably an 8 point roll bar (seeing as ill need it anyway) also that will help tie the whole car together. Im hoping to do that when tax season comes around and I get my refund. As far as subframe connectors, I'm not entirely sure I have thought about just some full length sub frame connectors welded but I have no idea at this point.

edit: I just looked up stifflers fit system and that looks exactly like what I need! Thanks for mentioning it, I had never heard of that before.

 

[1997GT4.6]

Don't get aftermarket upper control arms. It will cause bind, specifically the bushings. Stick with OEM uppers and oem bushings unless you are building a drag strip only set up.
I used MM control arms and loved every bit of it! Always felt planted.
Don't purchase a part until you have it all figured out and its purpose or else you will be paying twice. Ask me how I know.

 

[RichV]

1. Listen to the guys that drag race. The chassis/tires is what gets the power to the ground. Uber important.
2. Buy quality parts. MM>ebay Chinese junk

 

[Musturd]

I wouldn't waste my time with MM's boat anchors of suspension parts ... Team z is the way to go . MM is good for the street and road course but shit I had one of there k members damn it was heavy

 

[GT3FC]

yea it's always good to build a nicely setup car suspension wise first then add power and re dial in the suspension to hook and perform with the new power. Are you going to do through floor subframe connectors or just like mm kit ? Or stifflers fit system

So debating between through the floor sub frame connectors vs weld in sub frame connectors vs the stifflers fit system. First is there a major benefit in the through the floor vs just the weld on bottom sub frame connectors? If so in your opinion which do you think would benefit my application? I'm getting pretty serious about the body roll and chassis flex because It is a vert

 

[DropTopPony]

I would do the cage first since it's a vert. Then build the rest of the suspension and chassis around that. The cage will stiffen the car up.

My local track booted me for going under 12.9s so check what your track rules are.

 

[GT3FC]

I would do the cage first since it's a vert. Then build the rest of the suspension and chassis around that. The cage will stiffen the car up.

My local track booted me for going under 12.9s so check what your track rules are.

I plan on doing an 8 point for now hopfully when tax season comes around and I get my return. What I'm talking about is in addition to that.

 

[kb1982]

Don't forget to reinforce the torque arm boxes also. I would suggest some battle boxes, as welding them up completely still doesn't help enough.

 

[duff daddy]

Thanks for the info man. I just threw out the high 10's more realistically when all said and done I'll probably be it the mid 12's maybe high 11's. A man can dream though cant he? haha

10'S and street car ...only go together if your made of money and build a 9 second strip car and dial it waaaay back.

I'd go with team z everything being a street car they make a lot of nice stuff street friendly the new street beast kit for the rear is a killer setup . I will most likely be switching to these . I went with 175lb springs upfront with strange 10ways my car has zero issues with weight transfer . My sig pic is for show it's actually quite but higher now in the front. For the rear I would just keep it simple one coil cut stock springs with some strange shocks out back it's tried tested and true . Cheap and effective as well . Just with that alone in your car with some gears and usual bolt ons the thing should be running high 12's looking at ur sig it shouldn't be a problem if you can powershift and got some nice slicks.

^^ yeeep what him said.

First things first build the chassis .

This is needed for a 10 second car...even more if the car is a vert due to rules...

I wouldn't waste my time with MM's boat anchors of suspension parts ... Team z is the way to go . MM is good for the street and road course but shit I had one of there k members damn it was heavy

MM is street hero stuff or people who auto x... Last time I checked David Hance, Chris Tuten, Ronnie Diaz dont use mm stuff....

So debating between through the floor sub frame connectors vs weld in sub frame connectors vs the stifflers fit system. First is there a major benefit in the through the floor vs just the weld on bottom sub frame connectors? If so in your opinion which do you think would benefit my application? I'm getting pretty serious about the body roll and chassis flex because It is a vert

TTF sub frames are where its at. If you do a cage, and you do the Team Z rear kit... you will have a killer low budge chassis. 8 pt cage, tied to the sub frames in the floor, which then will have Torque boxes reinforced both upper and lowers.....And your Anti-Roll Bar (not sway bar) will be tied to this..... This car will hit hard and straight.

I plan on doing an 8 point for now hopfully when tax season comes around and I get my return. What I'm talking about is in addition to that.

See last quote but this is where its at man. If you have no attachment to the car and dont mind seeing it cut up... you will benefit.

Don't forget to reinforce the torque arm boxes also. I would suggest some battle boxes, as welding them up completely still doesn't help enough.

True, but only helps really when the rest is done right