Tailights again

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MustangMatt96GT

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Yea im going to take waht KB says to heart.

SO you think i just need to use the clear with more coats at a closer distance?
 

95KBGT

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MustangMatt96GT said:
Yea im going to take waht KB says to heart.

SO you think i just need to use the clear with more coats at a closer distance?

What i would do man, is try it out on a piece of wood, or cardboard, something other than your tailights so you can get a feel for how the can will spray. Also it is a good rule of thumb once you decide to do the tailights, have a clean piece of cardboard around, and spray some clear on it, then go to town on your tails.

Now you ask whats the reason for the clear on the cardboard. Alot of people end up running the clear down the tails, now you have a sample to judge. Once you can touch the clear and it leaves a finger print your ready for another coat.
 

SRT Handz

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you need to just follow that Write up and they will come out Perfect...i used that write up on my friends car and it came out great
 

OnyxCobra

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SRT Handz said:
you need to just follow that Write up and they will come out Perfect...i used that write up on my friends car and it came out great

so you can wetsand the niteshades and spray clear without negative effects?
 

95KBGT

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OnyxCobra said:
SRT Handz said:
you need to just follow that Write up and they will come out Perfect...i used that write up on my friends car and it came out great

so you can wetsand the niteshades and spray clear without negative effects?

newp VHT is not made to be sanded. you should never sand any basecoat down period.
 

OnyxCobra

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KB said:
OnyxCobra said:
SRT Handz said:
you need to just follow that Write up and they will come out Perfect...i used that write up on my friends car and it came out great

so you can wetsand the niteshades and spray clear without negative effects?

newp VHT is not made to be sanded. you should never sand any basecoat down period.

Thank you, that's what I thought.
 

95KBGT

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guys im not saying that write up is wrong, or srt is wrong. Im just merley going off of what i have done, experienced, and learned in the last 6 years of painting and tinting. i have used vht and its a very dry pourous material that would prob show up alot of sand scratches.


its up to yall im sure that method could work and look decent, but im not sure how long or how reliable it will be.

-Paul
 

OnyxCobra

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Well I think it's mainly popular because people can tint their lights without hindering light output. That's why I want to use it on mine.
 

TxCobrA98

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im not trying to steal Pauls light or anything but what i know he does is mix black paint and clear coat which makes it transparent.. he sprays a few coats, then clears the whole thing.. idk his sanding procedures and buffing though.

of course he can go into more detail with you but thats about as much as i know. he uses a actual spray gun too. and mixes the paint/clear himself.
 

95KBGT

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trey has got the right idea. I use my $900 paint gun (had to price drop so you know im serious) and basically i mix up what i call liquid tint. I sand down the lense with 600 gritt. then wax and grease remove LIGHTLY (if you do it to fast, or to much you will get static electricity and your project went to the shitter) I then go mix up my liquid tint, then right before i spray i tack rag down the lense.

The best part about this is, i use light even coats of what basically is a tinted clear coat. I keep adding layers till they are as light or as dark as i want. Usually afterwards i dont need to cut and buff. 8)
 

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