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sn95jones

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So I took my dog to the park for a walk and on the way home I got on the throttle a bit, granted I've driven the car about 800 miles since the clutch job. I got on the throttle and all was okay till the RPMs got higher then I felt a huge lag in torque like the power went away.
Next thing you know I hear this knock first thing I though great rod bearing, so I limped the car home and got it in the garage come to find out it's knocking from the transmission not the engine. Wtf happened I it babied for the break in miles and then this happens?
My kit was the SVE mongoose clutch kit.
 

the.greg

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How is this LRS fault? A loss of torque at high rpms doesn't sound clutch related to me. Not sure about the knock your hearing, but your probably gonna have to dig a little deeper to determine the poroblem. Is it only knocking at certain rpms?what gears? neutral too? Can you get a vid or better describe the "knock" I can try to help you figure this out.
 
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sn95jones

sn95jones

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How is this LRS fault? A loss of torque at high rpms doesn't sound clutch related to me. Not sure about the knock your hearing, but your probably gonna have to dig a little deeper to determine the poroblem. Is it only knocking at certain rpms?what gears? neutral too? Can you get a vid or better describe the "knock" I can try to help you figure this out.
Because if it's related to the clutch kit maybe it's defected idk lol
It does it in all gears clutch in or out. And yes only knocking at about 3500RPMs, lower RPMs seems to be quiet
 

ProKiller

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if it's RPM specific like you're describing then its usually before the tranny. any smoke coming from the engine?
 

the.greg

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I'm no expert but that doesn't sound like a clutch issue. Need vid lol. Was a new tob installed? Resurfaced or new flywheel?
 
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sn95jones

sn95jones

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I'm no expert but that doesn't sound like a clutch issue. Need vid lol. Was a new tob installed? Resurfaced or new flywheel?

Everything was done properly, resurfacing, new tob, new pilot bearing, new clutch, new pressure plate, ect.
I'll try to get a video after work tonight
 

Musturd

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Yea if it was clutch related it would have smelt amazing . I'm thinking its something else. Could be numerous things bearing retainer cluster shaft , transmissions have a lot of parts inside that can fail and cause the awesome crushed rocks sound.
 

MustangChris

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the only way i can foresee a clutch making a "knocking" noise is if either the flywheel wasnt bolted on properly or the clutch itself wasnt bolted on properly.

this may cause a "wabble" of some kind and the clutch could be hitting the clutch fork or something...

BUT. thats probably pretty unlikely and who knows if that's even what would happen if you didnt tighten it down properly.


Clutch install tips:
#1) only use the ford racing performance part throw out bearing.
#2) always tighten and losen the bolts according the ford specs.
#3) always wear multiple sets of latex gloves while doing the work.
#4) wipe down the flywheel with brake cleaner before installing the clutch.
#5) always use lock-tite.
 

rz5.0

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Aren't the fly wheel bolt tty and should be replaced every time.. I suggested you to buy the arp ones.. And new clutch bolts.. The only way it will knock if ours loose.. Did you check your throw out bearing retainer like i told you to..are you sure you aligned the clutch properly.. Followed the right Torque sequence..
 

MustangChris

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I did ARP flywheel bolts as well.
FRPP clutch bolts.
FRPP throw out bearing.
FoMoCo pivit stud.
FoMoCo piolot bearing.
FRPP nodular Iron flywheel.

and gloves are for sissies until that flywheel absorbs the dirt and oil off your hands and you have hot spots, motha trucka.
 

chris91

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I never have been able to work on cars with gloves on. It just doesnt feel right and 9 outta 10 times I cant feel to get the bolt going in right or they just feel in the way. Now if Im just taking wheels off or something I use my craftsman gloves but not for anything else.
 

MustangChris

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the only time i wear gloves is:

#1) clutch/flywheel work.
#2) brakes.
#3) oil or fluids.
#4) SS fuel lines... for ****'s sake.... ug.


why:
#1) you dont want the pores in the flywheel to absorb your skin's oils or dirt off your hands.
#2) you dont want your rotors to absorb the oil or dirt off your skin.
#1+2) clutches and brake pads are both made with asbestos - the less contact, the better.
#3) prolonged exposure to oil, ATF, or Diffy juice increases your chances of skin cancer (add high-altitude to that, in my case...)
#4) those damn lines hurt like a BIIIITCH.
 
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