The resurrection of MeanGreen...

Discussion in 'Build Ups & Projects' started by GreenRob, Jun 21, 2014.

  1. GreenRob

    GreenRob New Member

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    Let me start out by introducing my car. I have a 94 Mustang gt. I bought it when I was 19 and cut my teeth on it. I knew very little when I started, but had plenty of friends who "know what they are doing." Through plenty of mistakes, blood, sweat and mis-spent money I learned a good bit. I got married and my mustang sat out back and quietly fell into disrepair. This spring I went to start the car. I opened the hood to install the battery and found the engine bay full of walnuts and a small nest. I was less than thrilled. I feared the worst, that some rodent had spent the winter chewing through wires and had put the final nail in its coffin. I walked away for a week, I decided that if the mustang had endured this torture and survived, it was time to restore it to its former glory. I cleared the walnuts with my trusty Duke (my ferocious ten pound dachshund) at my side. The mustang fired and I was shocked. So begins the resurrection...



    94 Mustang GT:
    Underdrive pulleys
    cold air intake
    75mm throttle body
    trick flow intake manifold (upper and lower)
    shorty headers, straight pipes, h-pipe, flow masters
    3.73 gears

    [​IMG][/URL][/IMG]

    [​IMG][/URL][/IMG]The first problem is the radio...
    My stock radio failed after about 6 months of ownership. My friend "knew how to install them. He successfully removed the factory radio and asked for the harness that goes between the radio and the car. I did not purchase this,but was ready to go find one. He said, "don't worry about it" as he cut the harness at the connector. I had never installed a radio, but I felt this was not the appropriate work around. I purchased a new radio with appropriate harness adaptors. I also purchased a new dash harness so that I can permanently address this situation. During the removal of my dash I encountered possibly the worst wiring known to man. The vehicle has a code alarm installed. From what I have been able to come up with, it seems that this is a ford after factory alarm. It is tied into everything, I will be removing this as well. I figured since I have the dash out It would be a good time to change the interior. I have the black on top and tan on bottom scheme. So the current project is swapping to an all black interior with a fully functional radio suite sans code alarm.

    [​IMG][/URL][/IMG]

    [​IMG][/URL][/IMG]

    Problem two....
    When I got the mustang it was loud and fast and what I thought a sports car should be. In the years since I have owned family sedans and suvs that make much more power. Technology has come a long way, but I know that this car has potential waiting to be unlocked. Any thoughts on a good plan of action on making respectable power? I am currently thinking that finishing the trick flow top end would be great, however pricey. I also hate that the air cleaner is mounted in the fender. Is there one out there that will mount in the engine bay? I know that is in no way cold air, but the metal intake that is currently used is not really cooling any air.



    I hope you all enjoy the entertainment I am sure to provide.

    GreenRob
     
  2. Musturd

    Musturd Legend

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    Blower kit ... The easiest way to make good power and be reliable
     
  3. Orange 94

    Orange 94 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    Welcome! What musturd said for the power.
    [MENTION=11896]ttocs[/MENTION] might be able to help you with the stereo/alarm/electrical.
     
  4. g36 monkey

    g36 monkey Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    This is awesome, excited to see the progress!
     
  5. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

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    code had a deal with dealers to get their stuff at cost to install. Its about as factory of an alarm as there was then. Taking an alarm out is easy the only thing you need to be careful of is the starter kill if it was wired up. There are two basic types and code was the more hard-core type that kept the starter wire not connected till it could "see" the key in the ignition through the powering of an ignition wire. At that point it would connect the start wire and allow the car to start. The advantage to this is that if someone pulls the alarm out to get around it, it will still not start unless they reconnect the wire. So with that being said it was often not hooked up by dealers. Most of the connections should be in the drivers kick pane.
     
  6. GreenRob

    GreenRob New Member

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    Thanks foe the heads up ttocs
     
  7. GreenRob

    GreenRob New Member

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    Update, ordered black dash, black center console, black carpet, body harness, and b&m hammer shifter.


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