Project Grey94
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Do the sn94-95 computers pull timing and if so how do you stop it car runs great for 10-15min then no power about to go carb any help be greatly appreciate it
Thanks for you're time and knowledge I will try this after the work day is overyes when it will pull timing when it senses there is an issue. It could be as simple as the temp is getting too hot and you can't trust the stock gauge to tell you when it is getting too hot. I personally saw my car on the dyno getting hot enough to pull timing while the gauge inside showed 3/4 normal.
Another thing it could be was I discovered that the harness to my tps sensor was bad only when the motor was hot. Right at start up it would work as normal but after it was warm it got loose and would start to show 5-6% throttle when it was idleing. Get the motor hot and try dicking with all the sensor wiring. Pull/tug, twist and don't be afraid to just flat out yank on it and see if the motor makes any changes to how it runs. If ANY of the harnesses are missing even one of the clips to hold it in place go ahead and replace it. You should be able to give a solit tug/yank on any harness and not worry about it.
By chance could I drive the car with the tps unplugged or would that do damage just trying to get the damn car home without all the breakdownsThanks for you're time and knowledge I will try this after the work day is over
Got a new computer in it this has bin kicking my ass since May and I'm ready to just get rid of all my fuel injection and go carbureted because I can't figure it out but thank you all for all the info and knowledge if anything else you can think of please please respond and post for meI always go back to the capacitors in the computer when you get funny crap like this happening. You gotta get that kick panel off man - have a look; if good... then start unplugging stuff...
one thing at a time
And by chance what would you start withI always go back to the capacitors in the computer when you get funny crap like this happening. You gotta get that kick panel off man - have a look; if good... then start unplugging stuff...
one thing at a time
If it was me, I would replace the camshaft and crankshaft sensors first. Start with a good foundation, then go from there.And by chance what would you start with
Sounds more like PIP sensorAll the sensors have bin replaced after the 10-15min mark no power bucking some times pops will not run with timing spout plug in or maf plugged in
Thank you for your info I have replaced the fuel pump fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator and it didn't do nothing for me but thank you again for your timeHave you considered your fuel pump/filter? I had a problem where I went back to checking the computer, then started pulling stuff again. I thought the same thing - MAF failed again; TPS; EGR; fuel rail reg; lines... I even thought it could be that porcelain thing inside the passenger fender (forget what it's called).
I pulled my tank. I needed a new fuel pump and I changed out the tank sender and vent valve. AND, and I say this to everybody - seal the Compressor up... by this I mean clamp the crap outta your engine... NO LEAKS.
While you're at it, get a new gas cap...
PIP = is profile ignition pickup (pip) sensor. Also called a camshaft position sensor.Sounds more like PIP sensor
I went through five Water Temp Senders before I had two working sensors. They were all brand new - Rock Auto if you can believe it.I'm over $1,000 in electronical sensors...
glad you did this but it could still very well be a bad harness. My story above about the tps sensor drifting because of the harness not making good enough contact was discovered after I swapped out the sensor, started the car up and thought I was good till 20 mins later I noticed it was drifting. When I went and tapped on the new sensor with a screw driver handle I would see that it would drift and then if I took and forced the two connectors together it read as normal. Most of those sensors read by using variable resistance(for example both the tps and the temp sensor) so if when the harness gets hot it starts to loose connection it changes the resistance that the sensor is reading.I'm once again not to sound like a big D head but I've replaced every electronical sensor under the hood every one of them and I know that it's pulling timing also have new spark plugs spark plug wires new fuel pump new fuel filter new pressure regulator I even have a new computer with no success