top end setup for rebuild????

95mustangt

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i am in the process of getting everything to rebuild most of my motor. i just want to put new rings on the pistons for now and put a set of AFR 165cc heads with a E303 cam, Trickflow street heat upper and lower intake, 70 mm throttlle body and possibly some new injectors.

any thoughts on this set up would be awesome and greatly apprecciated

i would get a 4 bolt main block if i could afford it, but i just want this to last until then.
 

LAFENATU

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E cam will work well. It is very streetable and a proven power maker.

**awaits for all the E cam haters to chime in.
 
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95mustangt

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im going more for the e cam cus my friend has teh b cam and i want a lil more lope in the idle. it puts a great power can though.
would i have to go with the 1.6 roller rockers
 

LAFENATU

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Well with the AFR 165 heads they have .600 lift springs so there should be no issue with valve float and you should be able to do 1.7's but your going to have to check PTV clearance.
 
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95mustangt

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what if i go with 1.6rr instead. i kinda know how to check ptv clearance but how do you do it exactly by chance?
should i go ahead and do the oil pump while im at it.
thx for all the input so far
 

LAFENATU

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You have to clay the heads. Put it on the block, and turn the crank onr full rotation.
 

94 Sn-95GT

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If your talking bout a 4 bolt block in the future. Why not get heads you can use now as well as later? those 165's are on the smallish side for a 302 IMO

To Measure PTV you need to put clay on the piston. Put the head on put a few bolts in obviously rockers lifters pushrods ect and rotate engine. Then remove head and cut a pie piece out of the clay and see how much clearance you have.

Also lift to "XXX" doesn't mean shit. What seat pressure does the cam manufacture recommend? open pressure? What will the distance from coil bind be? Also how well is that generic good to "XXX" lift going to control the lifter on the cam lobe?
 

LAFENATU

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94 Sn-95GT said:
If your talking bout a 4 bolt block in the future. Why not get heads you can use now as well as later? those 165's are on the smallish side for a 302 IMO

Definitley...problem is, it looks like money is an issue so he is gonna have to do whatever floats his boat and fits his budget.

Not much he is going to be able to use that will work well with a 302 and larger. 2.02 valves won't clear stock pistons without some fly cutting unless your using twisted wedge heads. The stock cam MIGHT work but it would have to be checked.

Maybe some ported Twisted Wedge heads. :dontknow:

94 Sn-95GT said:
Also lift to "XXX" doesn't mean ****. What seat pressure does the cam manufacture recommend? open pressure? What will the distance from coil bind be? Also how well is that generic good to "XXX" lift going to control the lifter on the cam lobe?


Everything you said is absolutely true but...he's using an E Cam.

Lift has nothing at all to do with possible valve float?
 

94 Sn-95GT

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LAFENATU said:
94 Sn-95GT said:
Also lift to "XXX" doesn't mean ****. What seat pressure does the cam manufacture recommend? open pressure? What will the distance from coil bind be? Also how well is that generic good to "XXX" lift going to control the lifter on the cam lobe?

He's using an E Cam, are you serious?

So because its an E cam he doesn't need valvesprings that control the valvetrain? It is true its on a cheap sadi core cam and the cam specs could be different lobe to lobe. But it needs the correct spring none the less.

What makes the spring good to .600 lift?
 

LAFENATU

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What makes the spring good up to .600?

I must be missing something with this question.
 

94 Sn-95GT

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What makes the spring good up to .600 lift? So i can run a cam with .360 lift or one with .599? :dontknow:
 

LAFENATU

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94 Sn-95GT said:
What makes the spring good up to .600 lift? So i can run a cam with .360 lift or one with .599? :dontknow:

It is more than just lift.

lobe intensity plays a good factor like: A cam can be easier on springs then B & C at same maximum lift numbers.

That what you mean?
 

94 Sn-95GT

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LAFENATU said:
94 Sn-95GT said:
What makes the spring good up to .600 lift? So i can run a cam with .360 lift or one with .599? :dontknow:

It is more than just lift.

lobe intensity plays a good factor like: A cam can be easier on springs then B & C at same maximum lift numbers.

That what you mean?

Partly.
You need to know where coil bind is too. Too close and you'll toast the springs. too far and you'll have bad harmonics. then you need to know the spring rate. I'm sure theres more to it too.

There for springs good to ".600" doesn't mean sh!t.
 

LAFENATU

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94 Sn-95GT said:
There for springs good to ".600" doesn't mean sh!t.

So when I look at my sales reciept from AFR and it lists:

1.290" OD Hydraulic Dual Valve Spring, .600" lift

.600" means jack sh1t, why would they bother to list that?
 

94 Sn-95GT

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LAFENATU said:
94 Sn-95GT said:
There for springs good to ".600" doesn't mean sh!t.

So when I look at my sales reciept from AFR and it lists:

1.290" OD Hydraulic Dual Valve Spring, .600" lift

.600" means jack sh1t, why would they bother to list that?

because people buy into it. Not saying you did. Just saying in general its a selling tactic. you need to know more about the springs. Not saying those springs won't work for some cams. But to use/chose springs just because there "good" to .600" is stupid.
 

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