Trick Flow Heads

evilcw311

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So what how many other options do you guys have aside from factory and tfs heads.......?!?









Never mind. I’ll stop while I’m ahead and someone blows a gasket. [emoji1787]


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Silver95bird

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Hey if max hp was the only concern, we'd all just buy a pair of DOHC heads and be done, lol.
We're experimenting, comparing notes, and (hopefully) learning something.


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evilcw311

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Uhm.....your response has nothing to do with the original topic of the thread!!!

It actually does.

Why is it the aftermarket world never took off with this?? Why is it the tfs heads are the only option?? That is what I’m asking.


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evilcw311

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Evil...I was just badgering you.

It really is an honest question that nobody has ever been able to answer for me. That motor was around more than long enough to get some aftermarket love. So why did nobody else other than tfs make anything??? I’m not being my usual smartass mod motor hater. I truly am asking a question. [emoji38]


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joe65

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yeah, my question as well. Didn't ford make some svo heads for the 2v or was that only the 4v? Anyways, you would have thought edelbrock would have made something. They at least have the resources to do it. The guy that created efidynotuning.com has mentioned he's tuned lots of 2'vs with the TFS heads and lots of have been in the 330-350 rwhp range. I'd be happy there for sure if that's a good street able tune.

oh and just to mention i missed out on both sets of used tfs heads i came across lately. I'm almost to the point of ordering bare heads and putting as much together myself as i can. bare heads go for $879 ea. yeah in the end i'd pay more, but sometimes its easier to spend a couple hundred at time rather than the $2200 at once. yeah that's before cams...
 
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96blak54

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Un-assembled and bare heads are your better bet to a successful properly running engine. Imagine installing completed heads only to find out they came with a bad valve job
 

OLD H2S

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Joe, what cams made that HP? they were most likely TF and you should be able to find some dyne chart to see if that is what you want in a DD hot rod. I did not like the TF charts for power under the curve where torque is king at part throttle. The TF cams and write ups from people were good for stop light screaming. They have sold many heads and cams and the info you need is out there. Most of the time when I am out banging gears I am at 7/10's and that is where I want the good torque, I know my builds are good at 10/10's.
 

ttocs

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Un-assembled and bare heads are your better bet to a successful properly running engine. Imagine installing completed heads only to find out they came with a bad valve job
this could happen either way you go. Hopefully you either know better when you put it together or hope you have a reputable person that will make it right but shit happens.
 
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joe65

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Joe, what cams made that HP? they were most likely TF and you should be able to find some dyne chart to see if that is what you want in a DD hot rod. I did not like the TF charts for power under the curve where torque is king at part throttle. The TF cams and write ups from people were good for stop light screaming. They have sold many heads and cams and the info you need is out there. Most of the time when I am out banging gears I am at 7/10's and that is where I want the good torque, I know my builds are good at 10/10's.

I've seen mostly that it was comp cams and trick flow at those numbers, yes. Sounds like you use Todd Warren custo cams? Bullett, correct? I've talked to him a little bit on Facebook, but i'd like to follow up with him when i'm ready for cams. I'm mostly in agreement with you and that i don't really need to rev to hell and back around town and i feel like the 4.6 likes the mid range revs alot.

as far as bare heads goes, i have contacted a couple reputable shops here in the Denver area reagarding valve jobs etc. I'm sure i'll be living and learning on that stuff.
 
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joe65

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wow a little side track here. I just read the wild haired idea of 3v heads on the 2v. Seems like a waste of time. Interesting idea though.
 

01yellercobra

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I've seen some decent power numbers from ported 2v heads. One guy had a ported set of npi heads and made over 600 with a Novi 2k. If anyone really wants to make power they switch to 4v heads.

I think the reason there aren't more aftermarket 2v heads is because there isn't really a market for it. Most can hit their numbers with a good set of stock heads. The TFS makes it a little easier. But if huge numbers are the goal then switch to 4v.

The SVO heads were 4v heads. The machine shop that built my first BB/S had a set on the shelf.
 

96blak54

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There is/was a factory stock guy running a 4.6l with svo heads and consistently hit the high 9's, low 10's.

Although the drag racing class back then was a mix of 4.6l and coyote platform, the rules attached to what engine favored the 4.6l. Less overall weight, could run aftermarket cams, aftermarket intake, and a few others i cant recall.
 

OLD H2S

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We are still only working 500 CFM through the block at 5000 RPM, you do not need much in the way of heads, it is the cams that do it. 4V cams are wimpy and there is not much to gain from aftermarket, Ford pushed the limit from the beginning. 390 HP in the Cobra stock with a little boost, the only thing missing was GDI and VVT which the Coyote has now. The best out there cheap is a 3V swap, wide cams at low lift. Pin the cams, loose the VVT and then there are lots of cams from everyone off the shelf. Good head design, easy to port and they come very close to the 4V if all you look at is flow, way fewer parts flying around, much smaller package, way cheaper. As Blak has shown the NPI heads do not take much to be right in the max ball park and we are starting to get crowded at top numbers no matter what recipe you use because we are stuck with little CID. We are not talking about max effort here for the 1/4 mile and that is where the TF numbers come from that we are trying to compare everything to and the different recipes are all coming in at the same results.
I showed you all the cheap stainless big valves from Manly for the NPI heads from their heavy duty catalog and all the different welding I did in chambers ...too much, it all comes out the same numbers until you go trick Flow because they can use bigger cams and that is where the last 30 HP comes from. The cheapest way is a blower for big numbers.
Which is why I keep pushing for a real answer of what do you want? We all want more more more but then end up with drag cars getting beat by a Subi STI because of big boost and 4WD.
 
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joe65

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The SVO heads were 2v with NPI style ports, meant for the SVO intake. May be close but just a bit shy ofnthe TF i think? Id love to see a same specs shootout on that, but it would take $$$$$. I'm not holding my breath.

https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...-98-rare-complete-rebuilt-ported-cams.870555/

I thought there was a set of 2v SVO heads.

It has been proven that a set of worked over 2v tfs heads will flow about as much if not a bit more than the 4v heads ( untouched). I don't feel like you have to go to 4v. then if you add boost to the tfs or full cnc they are monsters. I mean really the tfs heads and decent cams are knocking on the 100hp increase door. Anyways, like anything there's lots of factors and the right combination can do good things. Old h2S knows his stuff, i tend to just repeat things ive read.

again, yes the younger man in me wants to puff my chest and build a turbo 800 hp engine to talk the talk, but that really isn't a very fun car to just drive and enjoy. Really 350 to 400 rwhp is good enough car to have fun in and not spend more time fixing things that break than driving. Really with today's kits you can just slap together the on3 turbo kit and its right at 450-500 hp which is a lot of street car, if that's what you want.
 
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evilcw311

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Joe65, you can build a 800hp turbo car and still make it very streetable. It generally means that you have an electronic boost controller with multiple tunes that you can flip with a switch or something. This way you can have a low boost/hp street setting and then crank it up when you want the full power setting.

Been done plenty of times and it’s all about the tunes and the controllers used.


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