Valve covers for 1.6 FRPP rollers, 93 cobra intake with 94-95 adaptor

GeeTeeFiveOh

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Hi guys I've done quite a bit of reading on this forum and others and I have not been able to find a solid answer regarding fitment for my application. I had the stock 94 VC and they interfered with the rocker arms, I've been told 1.6 rr should clear stock VC but that didin't happen

I bought some moroso tall ($75 ish) valve covers that would for sure clear the rockers but that came with a new of challenges. I needed to space the alternator forward which screwed up belt alignment, needed to make a 5 rib belt and space the idler properly, the belt wears quickly. I got a 3/8 or 1/2 bbk gt40 intake spacer and still had to cut some of the ear of the egr valve and remove material from the IAC which i believe led to its recent demise. These problems I created are temporary and want to get it done right now that I know what I'm getting into.

I've searched and searched and came up with these two viable options.
Moroso 68323 (the fancy fabricated aluminium ones with alternator notch)
TFS-51411801 (says it clears roller rockers at its 3" height)

Before I make a decision I'd like to get the facts straight. I really like the Moroso ones even though they are stupid expensive. What size intake spacer is required? the website says its a 3/8 spacer but some people have said they needed 1" to clear. The 94-95 TB adaptor puts the IAC very close to the valve cover and thats my biggest concern. Hood clearance is also getting tight, dont think a 1" spacer would fly with the stock hood.

If I find I need to hack up the moroso covers to fit with my IAC or something else the huge cost is not worth it to me then. If the expensive ones dont bolt right up for me I would rather get the cheaper TFS ones IF THEY FIT LOL

Sorry for the long post but I had to get it all out
 
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GeeTeeFiveOh

GeeTeeFiveOh

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I tried a 2000 explorer IAC that I had lying around, it bolts right up with no need for grinding of the IAC body. I cut the plastic off around the connector and soldered on some leads with pins to go into the stock IAC valve connector. I figured the differences between the stock and 2000 explorer IAC could be tuned to work properly with my Binary Editor. Unfortunately the explorer IAC lets in too much air, spout out tb screw all the way out base idle cant be lower than 1200 rpm.

This IAC is not compatible obviously, does anyone know of one that is and of physically smaller size? Thanks. The valve cover is my main concern as my belt drive is out of whack etc
 

toyman

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I tried a 2000 explorer IAC that I had lying around, it bolts right up with no need for grinding of the IAC body. I cut the plastic off around the connector and soldered on some leads with pins to go into the stock IAC valve connector. I figured the differences between the stock and 2000 explorer IAC could be tuned to work properly with my Binary Editor. Unfortunately the explorer IAC lets in too much air, spout out tb screw all the way out base idle cant be lower than 1200 rpm.

This IAC is not compatible obviously, does anyone know of one that is and of physically smaller size? Thanks. The valve cover is my main concern as my belt drive is out of whack etc

I wonder if that's really the case. The IAC is pulsed to allow air flow around the TB valve. It is either open or closed, there is no in between position. Have you cleaned the MAF sensor and checked for vacuum leaks? You said TB screw but did you mean idle air bleed screw. The idle air bleed screw is for adjusting air trim. If you've changed the TB screw you may have changed the TPS readings so these need to be confirmed as correct. From there I would do an idle reset as per these instructions .
 
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GeeTeeFiveOh

GeeTeeFiveOh

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Thanks for the reply.

-On closer inspection of the 2000 explorer IAC i noticed the plunger does not fully seat, the spring holds it open a slight amount. (new part)

-I also have a 2000 f-150 IAC same design different connector clocking and it is held open in the same way. (functional part)

-The stock 1994 GT IAC is fully closed in rest position where the others are open a bit

No vacuum leaks, TB bleed screw fully closed, TB stop scew for butterfly valve all the way out and TPS re-adjusted
 
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GeeTeeFiveOh

GeeTeeFiveOh

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Appreciate the idea but because of this current issue I am having my car is down and out, I need to go ahead and order a sure thing so I can get back on the open road. After reading that it still was not 100% sure fitment, maybe you can convince me otherwise

I looked through that sticky and there seemed to be debate whether the valve cover needed to be grinded to fit etc. I'm prepared to get a fill neck that will work for my new valve covers but I don't want to modify them otherwise. I'm looking for a valve cover with no alternator fitment issues that will clear the IAC with a 3/8 spacer.

Can anyone confirm the Moroso fabricated or TFS 3" cover will work ? or suggest something else that does not require grinding (I know the alternator clears but on corral "keith's 95' cobra money pit" he had to notch the top of the frabicrated cover for the IAC, he was however running the 94-95 cobra intake where im running a 93 cobra with a 94-95 adaptor. )

I also don't have a welder, if I did I work hack up the ones I have for now but I want the car the have the appearance of a "finished" product
 
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GeeTeeFiveOh

GeeTeeFiveOh

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I got the black trick flow valve covers on, they are advertised as 3" high and they clear my rockers and alternator fine. They also look awesome. While I was at it I installed their billet filler neck and cap and very happy how it turned out. Ill post pictures up soon
 

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