Vibration through the wheel 40 mph +

[Goldmember]

Just had new front tires installed, mounted/balanced, and put on new front struts.

Before the new parts there was a minor shake in the wheel in the 40-55 mph range. After the new parts, the shake is much more pronounced.

Ideas? I don't think ball joints, front end still feels tight. No noise from either wheel bearing.

 

[Shifty Powers]

swap the front wheels with the back and see what happens

 

[Goldmember]

You just got me thinking, I had a Focus with the same problem, turned out to be a bent wheel. Hope it isn't that...

 

[CC'S95GT]

did you get an alignment when you put the new tires on?

 

[Slykin]

Check your wheel balance. I think at discount tire they will check them for free. Only if one actually needs balancing weights added will they charge you. It needs checked either way though. Also alignment. You shouldn't have more than .5" toe in.

 

[Shifty Powers]

could just be the tires man.. does it go away after a certain speed as well?

But swap them around.. Should give you some results either way

 

[MustangChris]

as they said, rotate the tires.

if it continues I'd look into your steering shaft. the rubber knuckle may be going out.

while its in the air, have a friend wiggle the steering wheel to see if you can spot anything going out. maybe the internals of the steering rack??

 

[Goldmember]

Didn't have time to rotate tires today, will try for tomorrow.

I jacked the car up, put it on a jackstand, and put a load on the RF control arm. There was some vertical play, if I grabbed the top and bottom of the wheel and shook it, there was movement and a small clunk. My dad and I will take a better look at it Wednesday but I suspect possible hub.

Haven't had time for an alignment yet but I know it needs to be done asap.

 

[MustangChris]

hmmmmm anything at low speeds? i know you said you didnt think ball joint... but....

 

[Goldmember]

Chris, it's alright until you get to 40 mph and above. Below that, no shake.

 

[MustangChris]

10-4. You should have probably named the thread that.. ..... oh wait.



I'm sticking with my earlier ideas than:
Bad steering shaft.
Bad rack.
Bad rack bushings.

 

[Goldmember]

I'm praying it's not one of them. Never messed with anything past outer tie rods, I sense this could suck monkey balls.

 

[MustangChris]

nah. its not too bad. If its the inner tie rods, just remove rack (three bolts, two lines) and have it rebuilt + alignment.
if its outter tie-rods (somehow) bump steer kit
if its a bearing, ball joint, bad a-arm bushing.... all pretty self explanitory once you get in there...
if its the steering shaft, 2 bolts to remove it.



we're here to help man! just let us know whats up.

 

[Goldmember]

nah. its not too bad. If its the inner tie rods, just remove rack (three bolts, two lines) and have it rebuilt + alignment.
if its outter tie-rods (somehow) bump steer kit
if its a bearing, ball joint, bad a-arm bushing.... all pretty self explanitory once you get in there...
if its the steering shaft, 2 bolts to remove it.



we're here to help man! just let us know whats up.

On the rack- would it be cheaper to get a reman? Asking because I can't afford a bunch of downtime.
Have done ball joints and outer tie rods (with help) that's not the worst thing. Might just pay to get it done this time.
The shaft, that doesn't sound too bad.

I observed a couple more things today:
Over bumps there's a noticeable popping-type noise mostly in the RF.
Wheel shakes a little less turning left (this is why I suspect bearing)
Vibration intermittently goes from mild to very noticeable to mild again, kind of in cycles.

My dad and I are going to look at it together, tomorrow, so one of us can work the steering wheel while the other listens.

 

[boston2k4]

if you have a noise / pop / shake in the right front and it seems go away or be reduced by turning left id lean towards balljoints or hub when you turn a deep left you load the rigth side so it might "shut it up"
poping is usually a joint of some kind but it is a mustang so god knows its probaly the wiper motor!

 

[MustangChris]

yea. a reman might be cheaper. I just bought a cobra unit, so i'm not too sure.

 

[Slykin]

Sounds like a ball joint to me. To check for tie rod/rack play you wiggle the tire at 9/3, not 12/6. 12/6 is for ball joints.

 

[Shifty Powers]

yea if its when turning its a balljoint.. and if so.. ask [MENTION=17070]Tony[/MENTION] ... Hes the expert on ball joints.. goes through about 3 pairs a year lol

 

[Goldmember]

The verdict: After my dad and I tag-teamed it: Inner and outer tie rods are loose. Not at critical mass, I still have some time on them, they'll be done in the next month if not sooner.

At the same time, I'll do ball joints, just makes sense while it's all apart.

Thanks for the input guys.

 

[Tony]

yea if its when turning its a balljoint.. and if so.. ask Tony ... Hes the expert on ball joints.. goes through about 3 pairs a year lol

i only change ball joints when i overheat or seat belt jams!