badass98svt
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Oh jeez. Why dont ya sit under a rainbow and write a poem about it.
Yeah unfortunately I’m missing the multimeter. My dad isn’t very handy, only tools I’ve got are ratchets and screwdrivers. If you think I can fix it without the multimeter I’d love to do it myself though. Could you describe what the Mach amp looks like for me?if you have a multimeter we/I can guide you through a couple quick checks to see if we can narrow it down. I mentioned it before that the mach/premium amps are KNOWN to cause this problem and even if you think you ripped all that stuff out there is a VERY good chance the front amp is still under the radio connected, killing the battery. If you look on the drivers side of the center console where the carpet meets the console you can pull the carpet on the console up a bit and see if the mach amp is under it and disconnect it. Otherwise pull the deck out and look down and if it is there you will see an octagonally shapped metal box with a bunch of holes in it. Just disconnect it and your good, if the sound from the radio stops I can fix that as well. My dad is a tv repairman with a excellent set of tools!!!!
If you look on the drivers side of the center console where the carpet meets the console you can pull the carpet on the console up a bit and see if the mach amp is under it and disconnect it. Otherwise pull the deck out and look down and if it is there you will see an octagonally shapped metal box with a bunch of holes in it. Just disconnect it and your good, if the sound from the radio stops I can fix that as well. My dad is a tv repairman with a excellent set of tools!!!!
you can get a cheap multimeter at harbor freight for I think less than $20. All you need to do(assuming you do not see the amp I describe above) is to disconnect one side of the battery and it doesn't matter which side. You will then set the meter to read current/Amps/abbreviated as "I" on some meters and put one lead(doesn't matter which one) to the battery terminal, and the other lead to the power wire you disconnected. This way the meter will read the current that goes through it and with the key off it should be less as close to zero as possible. Once you see what it is reading all you do is start to pull fuses out one at a time and when you pull the fuse of the system that is drawing too much power you will see the current reading drop significantly. At that point you have a few things that might be hooked up to the fuse and you can start to check them by putting the fuse back and then disconnecting each of the circuits on that fuse one at time till it again drop. At that point you know the problem.Yeah unfortunately I’m missing the multimeter. My dad isn’t very handy, only tools I’ve got are ratchets and screwdrivers. If you think I can fix it without the multimeter I’d love to do it myself though. Could you describe what the Mach amp looks like for me?
Alright. Fair enough. I guess its worth a shot if I can find one. Thanks.you can get a cheap multimeter at harbor freight for I think less than $20. All you need to do(assuming you do not see the amp I describe above) is to disconnect one side of the battery and it doesn't matter which side. You will then set the meter to read current/Amps/abbreviated as "I" on some meters and put one lead(doesn't matter which one) to the battery terminal, and the other lead to the power wire you disconnected. This way the meter will read the current that goes through it and with the key off it should be less as close to zero as possible. Once you see what it is reading all you do is start to pull fuses out one at a time and when you pull the fuse of the system that is drawing too much power you will see the current reading drop significantly. At that point you have a few things that might be hooked up to the fuse and you can start to check them by putting the fuse back and then disconnecting each of the circuits on that fuse one at time till it again drop. At that point you know the problem.
It sounds like a lot but honestly about $20 and maybe 30-60 mins and you can find the problem yourself and learn a little bit. The mechanic will charge you $75 just to pull it in the bay, and then start the clock to do what I just described.
So if I remove the Mach amp and the battery stops draiNing, Do I still have to go through the other stuff you said? What features do I lose if I remove the amp? I assume its there for a reason. Also, do you think I’d need a multimeter for the car again? Should I buy one even if my neighbor has one?ask around and your local car buddy should have one. As long as its not a fluke(expensive brand meter) or something too costly the worst you can really do to it is blow a fuse so its not like your borrowing something you will break unless you abuse it and its also something that is needed ever day. It is good to have in your toolbox, ask for christmas if you plan on working on your car
When the mechanic was working on the car he said that the radio was drawing current, but it should not be enough to kill the battery. So I think it’s likely that it is this Mach amp. I just don’t understand how the alternator was also causing the issue. I wonder if I have something killing my alternator? I do have a rattling sound from the engine bay that sounds like a bad alternator, despite the fact that it was just replaced.yes there was a premium sound that was between the mach and the standard radio that used the front amp that is located below the amp. If it was there, it is probably still there and hooked up.
If you have a multimeter I can show you how to set it up to find the circuit that is draining the battery. All you have to do is disconnect the battery and pull fuses, it is not hard
Is this the right place? Can you see it anywhere in this picture or do I have to go lower? I can’t move my seat back because the battery is completely dead, it’s a real pain.A new alt/battery can temporarily fix a battery drain problem, but it is just a band aid and it is not going to fix the problem until the drain is located and removed/fixed. As I have said look under the radio for the amp. It is an octagonal shaped metal box with a bunch of holes in it and I think 2 harnesses going to it. If you go on the drivers side console where the console carpet meets the floor carpet and pull the console carpet back you might be able to see it and the harnesses.
pretty sure that you can just see the top of it through the hole directly under the radio. I thought I could reach the harness on mine to disconnect it through that hole but I could be wrong. take the dash/radio out and reach in and disconnect the harnesses that are going to it. Before you put the dash back in try to play the radio and see if you get any sound from it. Depending on how its wired you might lose the sound but we can fix that if your battery stops dyingIs this the right place? Can you see it anywhere in this picture or do I have to go lower? I can’t move my seat back because the battery is completely dead, it’s a real pain.
Going out tomorrow to buy the radio removal tool. Is there any other tools you’d recommend for the removal? I guess I need a multimeter too.pretty sure that you can just see the top of it through the hole directly under the radio. I thought I could reach the harness on mine to disconnect it through that hole but I could be wrong. take the dash/radio out and reach in and disconnect the harnesses that are going to it. Before you put the dash back in try to play the radio and see if you get any sound from it. Depending on how its wired you might lose the sound but we can fix that if your battery stops dying