What all to do with the SVO X305 Aluminum Head Install

[Z28This]

Hey guys i have a set of X 305 SVO Aluminum heads and i am wanting to install them on my 95 GT. While i have the engine apart what all should i do to help out with power increase. I am new to building engines so any tips would help. I am thinking port and polishing the heads but just curious for the cash how much of a power adder would that be? Also do would i be best to install a nice set of roller rockers and maybe some different kind of valve springs or are the ones made with the head sufficient? Would a GT40 intake be sufficient off of an explorer or would it be worth the money to invest in a trick flow? Also is there a cam that is proven to work best with these heads? The heads are 58 cc chamber heads with here are some specs i found on the heads.


http://www.1fordracing.com/parts/par...tKeyField=2600



TECH NOTES
M-6049-X302* Bare Head (64cc Chamber)
M-6049-X303* Complete Head (64cc Chamber)
M-6049-X304* Bare Head (58cc Chamber)
M-6049-X305* Complete Head (58cc Chamber)
THE FAST, EASY WAY TO BOLT-ON 65 HORSEPOWER! TRUE BOLT-ON PERFORMANCE

For use on 289/302/351 Windsor-style engines

Improved air flow over original GT-40 aluminum heads

Intake flows approximately 240 cfm at .550" lift (at 28" of H20)

Exhaust flows approximately 170 cfm at .500" lift (at 28" of H20)

Machined for 1.94" Intake and 1.54" exhaust valve diameters

Unlike some aftermarket heads our GT-40 heads use either GT-40 or aftermarket performance: intake manifolds, headers, and valve covers.

Intake port volume 178cc, exhaust port volume 62cc

High temperature exhaust valve seats. Thick deck for improved sealing, increased section thickness in critical areas for porting, and webbed rocker bosses for improved strength. Designed for bolt-on rocker arms, machined for tapered seat spark plug or gasketed. Compatible with Ford Racing intakes, headers, and valve train components. Can be machined for diagonal exhaust header flange mounting.

High quality original equipment style 356-T6 aluminum castings, machining and components

Each aluminum head weighs approximately 22 lbs. ? approximately 25 lbs. lighter than each cast iron GT-40 head.

These GT-40 style heads use AGSF-32C spark plugs

Each GT-40X head is leak tested prior to assembly

Head assembly consists of bare head M-6049-X302/X304 and GT-40 valve train kit M-6090-X302 featuring stainless steel valves. The valve springs are compatible with all Ford Racing roller camshafts. See page 99 for complete list of valve train components.


INSTALLATION NOTES:

Will not fit 1986 5.0L with flat-top pistons unless pistons are notched for valve relief

Must use head bolt kit M-6065-D289 to install cylinder heads on 289/302 blocks or head bolt and head gasket kit M-6051-A50 and intake gasket M-9439-A50/A51

Check rocker arm clearance to valve springs with production rocker arms

Check your intake manifold for port match, not all intakes are compatible due to the tall high-flow ports

Must use M-9439-A50 intake gasket

Thanks all!

 

[fastgtfairlane]

i would go with an eddy rpm or trackheat trickflow intake. if you can afford it i would have a custom cam cut for you. what are your plans for the car?

 

[Z28This]

Rice Eater....Weekend warrior....Something to have fun in....suprise people....maybe take it to the track once just to see what it runs. Nothing serious.

 

[NXcoupe]

Well, p&p on those is not a worthwhile investment. Not a lot of flow to be had with them. As for cam, go with something in the lines of .500 lift or less, or if you go with more, you will have to check for piston to valve clearance. It doesn't say if the heads use bolt down rockers or come with studs. If they use bolt downs, then I would go with a set of FRPP bolt down 1.6 roller rockers. As for the intake, see which FelPro intake gasket fits best, start with a 1250 gasket and see if it fits nicely first, if it does, then a TFS or Edelbrock will work well. If that gasket is larger than the port, then a GT40 intake will work better. If the gasket is smaller than the port, then a 1262 gasket will have to be used. A stage 1 trick flow is an out of the box cam that will make great power and be very reasonable for a budget.

 

[BlkoutGT]

I have those heads, Ive heard from a couple peaple that they didnt need aftermarket rockers, but it turned out i did, and i called ford racing to confirm it. I ended up getting 1.6 frpp bolt downs.

 

[GREG@SN95]

Definitely get some 1.6 roller rockers. I think you'll be fine with the gt40 intake considering you have gt40x heads. So far as cam, either a B303 or TFS1 cam should go well with your combo...

If you get the head ported and polished... you might as well have a valve job done, get some bigger valves and have new springs installed...

I've heard good things about those heads... They aren't worth the money if you are buying them new from FRPP... But you can often find them for a steal and make good power..

 

[BlkoutGT]

I've heard good things about those heads... They aren't worth the money if you are buying them new from FRPP... But you can often find them for a steal and make good power..

Ya i made that mistake, I bought them before I joined this site/knew any better. Just sucks because for a couple hundred bucks more, could have had a much better head. oh well. :sad5:

 

[LAFENATU]

If your not thrilled with the heads...sell them while they're new and get something better.

 

[Z28This]

Well heres the thing....The heads are on my 82 F-250. I didn't pay anything for them i guess you could say. I am gonna stick a set of stock heads back on my 351 W and use those. Kinda throwing around the idea of putting the 351 in my Stang. Its a 74 block and has 40K on the rebuild. Bored .30 crank was turned cammed... Probably make the stang waaayy faster. Just gotta read up on what i am getting into.

 

[LAFENATU]

You could make the 302 faster for less then what a swap would cost.

.02

 

[Z28This]

I figure with the Heads a Cam and a Intake i can make around hopefully upwards of 300 rwhp. Another forum a guy is making 275 rwhp in a foxbody. I don't know what all he was done other than that but i have Accel 300+ race wires, Msd Cap and rotor, Msd Blaster coil, BBK CAI, and 2 1/2 Offroad H-pipe. So i hopefully that would put me up around 300 at the tires with the right cam.

 

[NXcoupe]

With those heads, it's going to be tough to reach that kind of power, but you just never know. Depends on how well the combo works together.

 

[Z28This]

Should have specified in the other post. The guy making 275 rwhp has the same heads with a fcam and gt40 intake.

 

[GREG@SN95]

Well heres the thing....The heads are on my 82 F-250. I didn't pay anything for them i guess you could say. I am gonna stick a set of stock heads back on my 351 W and use those. Kinda throwing around the idea of putting the 351 in my Stang. Its a 74 block and has 40K on the rebuild. Bored .30 crank was turned cammed... Probably make the stang waaayy faster. Just gotta read up on what i am getting into.

Wouldn't take much work to drop in the 351W... I'm assuming the motor is carb'd now, but if not you wouldn't need a new dizzy... For the swap you would need...

rear oil pickup
rear sump oil pan
28-inch/ounce unbalance flywheel
351W GT40 lower intake
Distributor from an EFI 351W/5.8 truck (unless the 351 is EFI)
351W sn95 headers (MAC and FRPP both make a set)
FRPP Accessory drive brackets for a 351W

Now... You plan on slapping some GT40X head on the motor... If I were you and had the money for machine work, I'd get a valve job done and put in some bigger valves as well as some port work... It would be a good idea to ditch the flat tappet crap and convert to roller... If you wanna build a strong motor you should definitely do this... It will be a bit pricey but worth every penny... You will need the following...

Retrofit roller lifters (expensive)
roller cam
heavier valve springs
full roller rockers
bronze or steel dizzy gear (cast gears used on flat tappet cams will chew up a roller cam gear)

If you decide to stick with flat tappet you would save alot of money... But if you're gonna do the swap you shouldn't worry so much about saving money... The roller setup will have alot less friction and you won't have the power loss that you'd have with flat tappet... You can keep the 302 in and work on the 351W. Save money get all the parts you need, put the motor together and when you're all done all you need to do is yank the 302 and drop in the 351 and never look back. Nice thing about the 351 is you can fit a bigger cam without having the PTV clearance issues you would with a 302... The 351 will make more power then the 302 and have plenty room for improvement...

How many miles are on the 302? It probably wouldn't cost much more to build the 351 then the 302 anyways... You should never put a fresh well built top end on a worn out bottom end... If you have a decent amount of miles on the motor you should rebuild the bottom end. The 351 only has 40k on it, so its still pretty fresh...

With the extra cubic inches, better flowing heads, cam and intake... the last thing you may need to address would be fuel delivery. You should invest in a better fuel pump and rails... You may also want to consider getting 30-36 lb/hr injectors along with a properly calibrated MAF to go with them....

A roller 351W bored .30 over with a mild/moderate H/C/I should easily make 300-350 rwhp... It may cost you some extra money and take some time... But you'll be much happier with it then the 302...

 

[LAFENATU]

To keep it FI and to do it right it will cost some where in the range of $10K.

That is if he wants to do the heads that will work a lot better with a 351.

 

[GREG@SN95]

To keep it FI and to do it right it will cost some where in the range of $10K.

That is if he wants to do the heads that will work a lot better with a 351.

You are crazy... no way in hell it will cost 10K... unless he buys a dart block and builds a race ready motor...

There is really not much of a different between the 351 and 302 small blocks... 351 will bolt right in where the 302 was using the same motor mounts, it has the same bolt pattern so it will bolt right up to the trans. He can use all his stock EFI stuff, although he should upgrade it some...

He'll just need the stuff I listed before... It'll cost him $2000-$4000 to drop the motor in including machine work... That is supposing he converts from flat tappet to roller and upgrades the fuel system.

 

[blackpony]

My suggestion is to use the exploder intake. another thing to keep in mind, if you want to get maximum power, call and get a custom cam, but keep in mind you will need a tune. i am making just over 260 to the ground with the same heads and a steeda 19 cam and cobra intake with full exhaust and tune.... id suggest a custom cam as it will make better use of your parts....

putting the 351 in will be easy but will cost probably little over a grand... things you will need (assuming you just pull the 351 un touched and drop it in)

351 mustang oil pan
351 swap headers (fox headers will work also)
lower intake
flywheel
fluids
new belt

other then that everything will bolt up brackets, motor mounts, trans, wiring harness, etc...