What would you do next?

1Bad Snk

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It's a 95....from what i know it has full exhaust, cai, 373's,pro 5.0 shifter...what should i do next power wise?
 
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1Bad Snk

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SVTurbo 98 said:
What are your goals for the car?
just fast...nothing crazy..i would like to be around 350-400hp.......would i have to change the heads to do a different cam? i really wouldnt be able to afford a supercharger at the moment although it is definitly a future plan
 

OnyxCobra

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96_SVT_Cobra said:
nitrous, supercharger, or turbo

+1 Heads and cam probably won't get you where you want to be unless you do a radical build. If it's a real Cobra then you could do a cam with the stock heads but you'll need to do valve springs. Unless you want to do heads and cam you're really better off just saving for a cheap vortech.
 

SVTurbo 98

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OnyxCobra said:
+1 Heads and cam probably won't get you where you want to be unless you do a radical build. If it's a real Cobra then you could do a cam with the stock heads but you'll need to do valve springs. Unless you want to do heads and cam you're really better off just saving for a cheap vortech.

^I agree

If your goal is a supercharger then why not save up for one and build the h/c/i around it....
 
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1Bad Snk

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well how much are we talking for a cheap vortech set-up? and it's a real cobra
 

chaz

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I have become a fan of a 75 or 100 wet shot, well under 1000 dollars for 100 HP, only turn it on when you want to
 
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1Bad Snk

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chaz said:
I have become a fan of a 75 or 100 wet shot, well under 1000 dollars for 100 HP, only turn it on when you want to
is nitrous bad for the motor?
 

chaz

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No, read about it. It's 1 part oxgen 33% oxgen where as the air is only 14%, more oxgen more fuel more power. Oh and as the liquid goes to gas as it enters the intake it cools he air and compresses the air, colder air more oxgen in the same area. It will blow up a motor when it's done wrong the same as any other power adder.
 

96_SVT_Cobra

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these are brand new and are the complete kits, might have to buy injectors. but comes with Belt Tensioner Mounting Assembly, Crank Pulley Assembly, FMU Assembly with Lines, Radiator Hose Assembly, Stand Alone Assembly, Air Discharge Assembly, Air Intake Assembly, T-Rex Fuel Pump Assembly. just to get idea on prices that come with everything, some used kits seem like good deals but then you get nickel and dimed for little parts they didnt include.

v3 si-trim ($2699)
http://www.superchargersonline.com/product_detail.asp?PartNumber=V4FG218-020L

v1 t-trim ($3649)
http://www.superchargersonline.com/product_detail.asp?PartNumber=V4FG218-020T
 

chaz

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Here is a little more info on NOS, I think it is a great thing to add to a car to get you 75 to 100 hp when ever you want and it gives you time to save for a full build, SC or turbo

Nitrous Oxide is stored as a liquid under pressure and turns into a gas once it expands. This expansion is referred to as boiling. Nitrous boils at 129.1* below zero. As the gas enters the air intake it significantly reduces the air intake temperatures. This cooler temperature means the air is denser. This is a great benefit; however it is not the reason for the main increase in power. (Many boosted applications use nitrous just for cooling the air intake and to absorb heat soak.)

The main increase in power comes from the ability to burn more fuel from a controlled combustion process. Let me explain.
As the nitrous enters the combustion chamber it will break down separating the nitrogen and oxygen molecules. This happens due to the fact that Nitrous breaks down at temperatures of 565-575*F. The combustion temperatures greatly exceed this temperature. As the bond breaks apart the nitrogen acts as a heat absorbent and the oxygen increases the ability to burn more fuel. It is important to feed the oxygen with the correct amount of fuel needed in order to avoid a lean condition. With the increase in the amount of fuel being burned it will increase the cylinder pressure upon compression stroke. As a result the piston will be returned at a faster rate than normal. (Oxygen + Fuel + Cylinder pressure = HP)


Controlling Detonation

Detonation can lead to engine failure. To avoid detonation controlling the combustion process is very important. This is done by controlling the burn rate through air fuel and timing.

Controlling the air fuel is achieved by providing the increase in oxygen with the amount of fuel needed. By providing the correct amount of fuel it will avoid a lean condition that causes heat in the cylinder.

Retarding timing to control cylinder pressure is important to avoid pre mature combustion, other wise known as detonation.

Also run a stage cooler spark plugs

Wet kits add fuel when the nos is spraying so you don't need to change injector's

When I run NOS i have it tuned to run 12.5 AFR normal driving and 10.5-10.9 when spraying to be safe, i also retard the timing 2 deg for every 50 shot I spray with 1 step cooler plugs. Read up on it and you will see that its not bad for the motor, you can start at a 50 shot this would be equal to about 4-5 lbs of boost. After you know what your doing you can go a 75-100-125 shot on stock motor. I would only go to 125 max.
 
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1Bad Snk

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when using nitrous, do u push a button? i also heard it can shot automatically when u mash the gas...how long will one shot last? i mean if ur racing someone, 10sec,15,20 ect......how many shots do u usually get from one bottle
 

chaz

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Many different options
Progressive shot- it can that starts at 3000 RPMs (or what ever you want) with a 100 shot and as the RPMs go up it can go up to a 200 or 250 shot (again what ever you want) and cut off before your rev limiter kicks in.
WOT Box- turn on a switch in the cab this turns on the system then when you mash the gas or go WOT it starts spraying
Button- no one that i know of uses these (fast and furious)

A 10 lb bottle with a 100 shot should last 10 to 15 passes at the strip. If you did a run from 0-150 mph you would have plenty left left to play for a few days.

I'm doing 2- 10 lb bottles in a custom rack hidden in spare tire place.
 

sbr420a

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man i would upgrade the ignition stuff or suspension. no need to add more power if you cant keep it on the ground
 

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