Where to get bent axle tube straightened?

MichaelS0613

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Hello, this is going to be a long post, due to the backstory, but I'll give the short and sweet first.

Where around Northeastern Pennsylvania, Im in the Scranton area, can I get a bent 8.8 axle tube from a 1998 GT straightened?


Now the backstory, It you have a little time I would appreciate if you read it.

Four years ago I bought a 1998 GT, that was pretty decently modified --Vortech v1 sc, subframe connectors, dyno tuned, exhaust work done, and quite a few other performance pieces installed here and there, however, the suspension was completely worn out, and it had broken gears in the 8.8.


The car quickly became a father and son weekend project and the workshop was the parking lot in our apartment complex --with the blessing of neighbors and the complex manqgement of course. During the four years he and I were blessed to be able to work on the mustang together, we learned a lot about both the car, and about each other. We rebuilt the rear end with all new bearings, 31 spline parts, a new traction lock diff with a set of 4.10 gears, and Strange C clip eliminators. We replaced everything else that was either worn out or broken. We replaced all six control arms --front as well as upper and lower rear control arms with tubular pieces by BMR, installed lower control arm relocation brackets, replaced the upper axle housing bushings with spherical bearings, replaced the steering rack, the clutch cable a few times --car came with a very strong clutch finally went with the OEM part which has held up nicely, installed lowering springs, and new shocks, then later changed that all out for an Air Lift Performance air suspension kit. We also performed a bunch of maintenance and even replaced the heater core.

Then it happened, about a week before I was going to put the car away for the winter, I got T boned by another car at a blind intersection who didn't stop for a stop sign. Damage was caused to the drivers side quarter panel and rear axle wqs blown apart with the tire being ripped off the ca4. We were relieved when we were informed by the body shop that the unibody was straight, but the axle was bent. We had the body damage repaired, and made plans to either get the axle repaired or rebuild another axle in the Spring. Spring arrived and dad passed away unexpectedly before it was nice enough outside to start working on the Mustang together. Which brings me to here and trying to get the mustang back to where it was pre accident as a tribute to my father.
 

cobrajeff96

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Sorry for your loss.

Well, even if a drivetrain specialist can't get it straight a new tube can always be swapped in place for the bent tube. It shouldn't be that hard for the right shop to do it. You'd just have to search your area for one. Might just start with a machine shop first and ask them to point you in the right direction. Usually different kinds of shops feed each other business.
 
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MichaelS0613

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Thank you so much for the guidance. I'll start calling machine shops after work.
 
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MichaelS0613

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Just to clarify, when you state "I would try the junk yards" are you suggesting to start over and rebuild the axle with another housing?
 

ctandc

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Just to clarify, when you state "I would try the junk yards" are you suggesting to start over and rebuild the axle with another housing?

Might be cheaper depending on what local shops want to charge you. Reason being there could be other damage once you get in there - beside just the axle tube. 8.8 SN95 complete rears seem pretty common / cheap. Then swap all your good parts into the donor assembly. Again - all depends on what's actually damaged on yours, once it's apart, and what shops around you are willing to fix etc.
 

RAU03MACH

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what i am saying you are better off getting a complete rear end from a junk yard
replacing tube will cost about the same
and trying to find someone to do it is another problem
 

RAU03MACH

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i had a bent tube on mine
had a shop replace the tube and it would leak at the diff
and then it was not fully seated inside
i finally went to a junk yard found one with less miles on it
 

RAU03MACH

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i know its a lot of work
but you are getting a solid one if you find it
i had nothing but problems when trying to repair one
 
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MichaelS0613

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Makes sense. Looking at the prices the local machine shop quoted me is really making me wajt to consider the salvage yard option. Going to have to think about it for a bit before deciding.
 

Snorky

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I had a guy in central jersey straighten the axle in my green car and weld the tubes. Honestly I would just get another axle out of a part out car and if you have aftermarket parts swap them over.
 
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MichaelS0613

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Currwntly researching which range of years 8.8 housings will properly fit the 98GT.
 
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MichaelS0613

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I could use a little clarification on the statement about the housings in the "EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW SRA or IRS 7.5 or 8.8" sticky thread by 330CubeGt.

They state that that "All 1979-98 AXLE LENGTHS ARE THE SAME, They are the same exact Housing!
For Ex. I have a 1986 8.8 Rearend, with 7.5" Housing ends from a 94-98 And im running 94-98 V6 Axles.
So the only difference between the FOX Rear and the Early SN95 Rears are the AXLE ENDS and Axle Length."

Does that mean I can find any 8.8 housing from a 1979-98 GT, and then all of my other parts --sphericsl bearing UCA bushing replacements, axle shafts, Cobra rear brake calipers and brackets, diff carrier, and strange c clip eliminators --after cutting the tube end flanges flush with the outer side of the flat caliper bracket mouting surface, will swap in without further modification?
 

Wood's 5.0

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Hello and welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear about your dad. I lost my mom last year so I know how losing a parent feels. Cherish the memories of y'all working together on your car as they are priceless. Remember that and give those same memories to your children when and if you can.
Without a long and drawn out opinion - just get one from another car and either swap your parts to it or start over and build a new one. Take the time while its on the stands to do anything you want that you may not have done to the first one. Weld the axle tubes, powder coat it, etc. and bolt it on in. Yes, you can fix your old one but is the juice really worth the squeeze? As @RAU03MACH wrote above, the potential for "nothing but problems when trying to repair one" exists and will result in double or more work for you if you have to take it back out for whatever the reason. That's a drag even in the best of circumstances like having a well-lit shop with a lift, air tools, out of the bugs and heat/cold, etc. to facilitate you doing the work yourself. On your back, with your car on jack stands, in the parking lot of an apartment complex, by yourself, will just make it that much worse. No disrespect intended as if that's what you have then I commend you for your perseverance and dedication in "gettin' 'er dun". Plus, if the repair of the entire assembly is not dead-nuts on and the geometry is out even a little, the car won't track right, the tires may wear unevenly, and the list goes on. Again, welcome to the forum and good luck. Post a picture of your car and progress when you can.
 
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MichaelS0613

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Wood's 5.0, I'm sorry to hear about your mother, and thank you for the lengthy reply. I do not have children, and probably never will at my age, however, if I did, sharing the experience of rebuilding a car, is something I absolutely would share with them.

I want to appologize however, I have been busy taking care of a family matters. i wanted to post an update on my progress. Since I last posted, I obtained a bare and straight housing with the carrier bearing caps properlremoved and reinstalled for the removal of the diff and ring and pinion. I also obtained a Yukon ring pinion install kit, and gaskets for the c clip eliminators, as well as another set of 31 spline axles. Im sure I'm going to have questions along the way, and I'll be sure to post them here as they come about.
 

95opal

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The hard part about getting a tube done is finding a shop that has a jig for it. Without it being set up properly in a jig any welding on the tube will pull it out if square. The housing must be done in a jig or your just waisting money.
Even when buying a used rear there is always a chance a tube is bent.
Ive seen tons of them over the years. Most peeps dont even realize they have a bent or slightly bent tube.
 

Mustang5L5

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I could use a little clarification on the statement about the housings in the "EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW SRA or IRS 7.5 or 8.8" sticky thread by 330CubeGt.

They state that that "All 1979-98 AXLE LENGTHS ARE THE SAME, They are the same exact Housing!
For Ex. I have a 1986 8.8 Rearend, with 7.5" Housing ends from a 94-98 And im running 94-98 V6 Axles.
So the only difference between the FOX Rear and the Early SN95 Rears are the AXLE ENDS and Axle Length."

Does that mean I can find any 8.8 housing from a 1979-98 GT, and then all of my other parts --sphericsl bearing UCA bushing replacements, axle shafts, Cobra rear brake calipers and brackets, diff carrier, and strange c clip eliminators --after cutting the tube end flanges flush with the outer side of the flat caliper bracket mouting surface, will swap in without further modification?


A little late, but to clarify for you.

ANY 86-98 8.8 axle housing from a Mustang is going to be the same. The main difference will be the brakes. The 86-93 cars have drum brakes. 94-95 cars have axle mounted brake lines. Depending on the year/trans, different axle ratios were available. The 99-04 axle housing itself is 1.5" wider and the 99+ housing uses 14mm lower control arm mounting bolts.

But the important thing here is the housing itself is identical on the 86-98 cars. If you get a 1986 housing and strip it down, you can install all the parts from your 1998 axle. Brakes, differential, axle shafts, etc. Really the only think you'd need to keep from the old axle is the bearing caps for the differential, which are machined in place so they need to stay with the axle.
 
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Mustang5L5

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I would try 94 to 04
Best bet

99-04 axle axle housing is 1.5 wider and uses 14mm lower control arm bolts. Brakes are the same, but the 99-04 cars use a longer axle shaft than the 94-98 cars due to the wider housing.

The 94-98 housing (which is the same housing as 86-93) uses 12mm bolts.
 

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