11's Possible?

[justinschmidt1]

I never advised him to not run a slick? I didn't even give advise on what tire to run lol. But I would agree, run a slick if you are not getting traction. But I think its best to find out why you are not getting traction, although the OP's case is very different from mine. So, in conclusion I agree with you Mr. Justin. Damn your old GT moved out! Makes me wish I would have kept mine and followed your lead.

Dude, I was responding to the other guy I quoted.

Justin your a fuc king moron...

Clearly. Have you even broke into the 11s yet?

First of all its you're.

Care to explain why im such a moron?

Cause IIRC I went a lot faster than you with my setup...and had the exact setup the OP has

 

[MadStang]

Care to explain why im such a moron?

Cause IIRC I went a lot faster than you with my setup...

because your engine bay is dirty :look:

JK Justin, I heart you and your caddy

 

[justinschmidt1]

because your engine bay is dirty :look:

JK Justin, I heart you and your caddy

lol, that must be it

My caddys engine bay is clean though!

God forbid someone who has had the exact same setup the OP is questioning about has a different opinion than Franky Frank over there.

 

[330CubeGt]

Clearly. Have you even broke into the 11s yet?

First of all its you're.

Care to explain why im such a moron?

Cause IIRC I went a lot faster than you with my setup...and had the exact setup the OP has

Yes, No ****s are given. Not quite sure why...

You have no clue whats done to my car or what it runs now.

You managed to build one stout sn95 I will give you that but your extremely biased to that particular build and what worked for you car. And that doesn't always work for everyone else thats all im saying.
Hence why I said he might need to do some trial and error to see what type/size tire works best for him, his car and the track he will frequent.

 

[justinschmidt1]

So you want him to waste a bunch of time and money messing with suspension and trying out different tires and setups when he could simply put a set of slicks on his car as it sits and hook without all the wasted time and money.

Sounds like a simple choice to me..
.


I'm not biased I just know what works and want to help him run good times...not be stuck in the 12s for his life time like you bro.

You should listen to me more

 

[330CubeGt]

There is a reason I tell everyone I run 13.50s and only have videos of my stock cobra posted running 13s... I only tell people what they need to hear hence why I removed my build thread and very few people know what I have done to the car.
You think a full suspention built stalled auto power added cobra runs 13s come on bro I thought you were smarter then that.

I frequent the track A LOT and everyone I know thats fast runs M/T Et streets or a Hoosier QTP or similar Radial tire. A 275-60-15 M/T is the only tire anyone will ever need. Im just posting my .02 from my real life experience with my own and friends cars because I know how tires and suspention work hand and hand and I know what works.

 

[justinschmidt1]

I said stuck in the 12s....how do you pull 13s out of that comment?

I don't care what your friends run. A full slick will hook 100% no question and its easier on the drive train


Not everyone wants to run a 28 inch tire either. 3.73s and his setup a 28 inch tire would slow him down.

A 26 inch wrinkle will will dead hook and keep him in his power band better

 

[330CubeGt]

In the end to the Author of this post, yes 11s are possible. No your suspention is not ideal for planting the back tires although you have a nice 60' for a stock converter car.

I would suggest a stall, up the shift points and some sort of sticky tire mounted on a 15x8 w 5.5"back space or a 15x10 w 6.5" back space.If you have the time, knowledge and tools I would suggest J modding the stock trans as it will firm up wot shifts and prolong the life of the tranny.

 

[justinschmidt1]

I can agree with that

All Im saying is with his suspension setup why not go with the overkill slick and make sure of hooks rather than going with a Dr and not hooking?

There's no downside to slicks.

 

[330CubeGt]

Comparison video on the same car. Slick vs Dr

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fyTiS8pw5Z4&feature=youtube_gdata_player

 

[chrisv_10]

But why would a DR be better than a slick?? I want details on that. I saw the video and it's pretty interesting how the DR got a better time.

 

[330CubeGt]

A drag radial is more stable on the big end at high speeds, as most get a little wiggle from a slick.A drag radial is D.O.T legal to be street driven and is a street tire.So there perfect for the weekend warrior to bolt on at home cruise to the track and drive home on. I daily drove mine on drag radials at 12-14psi at 75 mph 60 miles a day for a week with no problems. I don't see anyone doing that with a 26x10.50.

My hoosier 275s hook on gravel!

 

[1997GT4.6]

Dude, I was responding to the other guy I quoted.



Clearly. Have you even broke into the 11s yet?

First of all its you're.

Care to explain why im such a moron?

Cause IIRC I went a lot faster than you with my setup...and had the exact setup the OP has

The screen I'm staring at shows you quoted me, and then wrote the tire comment under my quote? Oh well I just wanted to be right for once that's all. Carry on.

 

[justinschmidt1]

Comparison video on the same car. Slick vs Dr

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fyTiS8pw5Z4&feature=youtube_gdata_player

That is interesting however rather pointless to compare a drag car trapping 150 mph in the 1/8th to the OP's car. He seems to be spinning all over with both tires and his numbers/MPH are all over the place because of it.

IF you can hook up a DR off the launch it should be faster down the track than a slick...the problem is that your average lowered mustang like the OP has will struggle to hook up and launch with a DR at least in my experience.

But why would a DR be better than a slick?? I want details on that. I saw the video and it's pretty interesting how the DR got a better time.

There's different definitions of better. Slicks are strictly track use. I wouldnt drive with a slick on the street.

A radial (DR) has a stiffer sidewall like a normal tire so they are fine on the street and should give you a little better MPH/ET assuming you can equal the 60 foot of a slick but were talking a tenth...nothing big.

The problem is when you've got a slammed mustang without drag suspension the 60 foot is a shit show which is why I had to use slicks to bandaid that.

My car on DR's went 11.70@120 mph with a 1.8 60 foot

On slicks it went 11.35@121 with a 1.64 60 foot, 100% because I could launch the car full out on the wrinkle wall and cut a good 60 foot

When I said go slicks, I based that on the fact that the OP has a lowered mustang with otherwise stock suspension.

If you can fully hook on a DR than by all means, DR is the way to go. Unfortunately, in the world of light in the ass lowered mustangs traction can be hard to come by

 

[justinschmidt1]

The screen I'm staring at shows you quoted me, and then wrote the tire comment under my quote? Oh well I just wanted to be right for once that's all. Carry on.

I quoted you and 330cubeGT haha

I agreed with what you said, the lowering springs kill weight transfer and make it hard to hook on a DR.

 

[justinschmidt1]

I know im a moron so dont take my word for it....


"When you get done struggling with those get some bias ply ET streets and call it a day.

Sure you can throw 90/10's in the front, remove the sway bar etc... and hook like you want but then your car sucks to drives on the street.

I had the 275 MT Radials and pulled 1.7-1.8 60 fts and thought I was doing good. I had my technique down and was consistant. When I went to the bias ply ET streets and was able to dump the clutch and pull 1.50's at will may track times fell and my frustration went away.

My car is set-up for turns and doesnt weight transfer very well to the rear tires. The bias plies were a life saver for me cause I have no desire in building a strip street car that is only good at going straight.

In the end it may be cheaper to go with bias plies then modifying your car to launch on radials with a stick. Just a thought."


"A basic suspension stick shift car will do better on a bias ply tire. You'll need a great suspension and a good track to do well on a radial with a manual tranny. Just my experience."

"A true slick on a 15 inch rim would be an upgrade."

"I fought and fought with those issues until I put a real slick on the car. A manual with a 16+" DR will always fight you.

Save the DR's for street use, and slap either a 15-16" DOT bias ply on it, or get some drag slicks."

Just seems like everyone thats tried both with a similar setup to the OP agrees that slicks are the better option.

 

[chrisv_10]

I know im a moron so dont take my word for it....


"When you get done struggling with those get some bias ply ET streets and call it a day.

Sure you can throw 90/10's in the front, remove the sway bar etc... and hook like you want but then your car sucks to drives on the street.

I had the 275 MT Radials and pulled 1.7-1.8 60 fts and thought I was doing good. I had my technique down and was consistant. When I went to the bias ply ET streets and was able to dump the clutch and pull 1.50's at will may track times fell and my frustration went away.

My car is set-up for turns and doesnt weight transfer very well to the rear tires. The bias plies were a life saver for me cause I have no desire in building a strip street car that is only good at going straight.

In the end it may be cheaper to go with bias plies then modifying your car to launch on radials with a stick. Just a thought."


"A basic suspension stick shift car will do better on a bias ply tire. You'll need a great suspension and a good track to do well on a radial with a manual tranny. Just my experience."

"A true slick on a 15 inch rim would be an upgrade."

"I fought and fought with those issues until I put a real slick on the car. A manual with a 16+" DR will always fight you.

Save the DR's for street use, and slap either a 15-16" DOT bias ply on it, or get some drag slicks."

Just seems like everyone thats tried both with a similar setup to the OP agrees that slicks are the better option.

Interesting!!

But damn, how long did it take you to gather up all these quotes??

 

[justinschmidt1]

Interesting!!

But damn, how long did it take you to gather up all these quotes??

It was one thread on corral that I happened to come across when ironically researching launching techniques for drag radials cause that's what I've gotta run on the v.

Took 20 seconds to copy and paste

Just found it funny that all those guys were basically like you need a slick. stop wasting time on a Dr.


This is the case with cars that don't have drag suspension

 

[FaykSaleen]

I know what to do to get you into the 11's.......




100 shot of nitrous !

 

[justinschmidt1]

I know what to do to get you into the 11's.......




100 shot of nitrous !

Don't forget the slicks!. Power is nothing without traction