11's Possible?

[Hickrocket1258]

Well I went to the track this past Sunday at Maple Grove. Was about mid 50s and sunny. My previous best with the car was a 12.95 with the stock gears. After the change and going to the track Sunday, my new best time is 12.57@110. 60' on the car was 1.91. The car has no issues hooking at all.

What I'm wondering is if anyone thinks that 11's are possible at this point. I wasn't shooting for it but I'm starting to think it's possible. Looking to switch out converter hopefully by the end of the year but doubt it's going to happen. Below is a list of what's done at the time.

Vortech V1
42lbers
Division X pump
catback
3.73 gears
auto (stock converter)
stock 17x8 bullits on 245/45 555r

 

[Musturd]

Yea get rid of the radials and run slicks. 1.91 isn't that good of a 60ft what are you launching at I think ur car has 11's in it

 

[330CubeGt]

I think if you go with a 3600 minimum stall and a 15x8 with a 275-50-15 (26tire) you might bust off a 11.9x .

If you can get the 60' down another tenth you might see a 12.30 as is...

 

[330CubeGt]

Yea get rid of the radials and run slicks. 1.91 isn't that good of a 60ft what are you launching at I think ur car has 11's in it

I would suggest a drag radial over a slick on a Auto car but he needs the 60' down in the 1.6-1.7 area to get close to 11s. A stall will definitely help get the car out of the hole. But I highly doubt it will hook on the tires your running now.

 

[Musturd]

I would suggest a drag radial over a slick on a Auto car but he needs the 60' down in the 1.6-1.7 area to get close to 11s. A stall will definitely help get the car out of the hole. But I highly doubt it will hook on the tires your running now.

Shiit I some how missed auto stock converter in the list of mods , yea drag radials work better on autos

 

[330CubeGt]

Slicks are for sticks

 

[justinschmidt1]

The stock converters are terrible in these cars.

Id recommend getting a single disc 3600-3800 capable of handling WOT lock up and lock it up about mid way through 2nd gear and you should have those shift points up around 6k-6200 RPM's.

It may have high 11s in it as it sits as a converter in a vortech car makes a world of difference.

How much boost are you running anyway? Ever have it on the dyno?

Could always pulley down a bit

 

[chrisv_10]

Some rear suspension work? That would help. lower and upper control arms and some drag springs.

Sent on the toilet from my SGH-T679

 

[Hickrocket1258]

The stock converters are terrible in these cars.

Id recommend getting a single disc 3600-3800 capable of handling WOT lock up and lock it up about mid way through 2nd gear and you should have those shift points up around 6k-6200 RPM's.

It may have high 11s in it as it sits as a converter in a vortech car makes a world of difference.

How much boost are you running anyway? Ever have it on the dyno?

Could always pulley down a bit

Justin I am hitting about 10 pounds of boost at the end of first and second gear and crossing the line in third gear at 8 pounds. The car has been on the dyno as it sits making 347whp/333tq.

I do have a power pipe and intercooler sitting around. Needs the piping for the intercooler though.

Also to note, the car is lowered which probably isn't helping much, but I know that might cause some problems if I were to get a converter.

I'm basically trying to push my current set up as far as I can go before I need to switch around any suspension parts.

 

[justinschmidt1]

Justin I am hitting about 10 pounds of boost at the end of first and second gear and crossing the line in third gear at 8 pounds. The car has been on the dyno as it sits making 347whp/333tq.

I do have a power pipe and intercooler sitting around. Needs the piping for the intercooler though.

Also to note, the car is lowered which probably isn't helping much, but I know that might cause some problems if I were to get a converter.

I'm basically trying to push my current set up as far as I can go before I need to switch around any suspension parts.

I understand. What are your shift points set at? RPM wise?

Lowering the car can hurt weight transfer ..I did the LCA's but honestly they didnt help my cause, maybe they would with a true drag setup.

Personally, coming from someone who has been there done that with a very similar setup, first thing I would do once you do the converter is get a set of real slicks. Don't waste your time with DR's.

My ET went from 11.7 to 11.35 from DR to slick and I couldnt even launch with a DR on my car.

 

[Hickrocket1258]

I understand. What are your shift points set at? RPM wise?

Lowering the car can hurt weight transfer ..I did the LCA's but honestly they didnt help my cause, maybe they would with a true drag setup.

Personally, coming from someone who has been there done that with a very similar setup, first thing I would do once you do the converter is get a set of real slicks. Don't waste your time with DR's.

My ET went from 11.7 to 11.35 from DR to slick and I couldnt even launch with a DR on my car.

If I recall I want to say the shift points are set around 5700 rpms. I honestly don't remember and didn't set them.

I will take into consideration with what you have mentioned. I know you are pretty good with subject overall.

 

[justinschmidt1]

If I recall I want to say the shift points are set around 5700 rpms. I honestly don't remember and didn't set them.

I will take into consideration with what you have mentioned. I know you are pretty good with subject overall.

I would have them raised up to atleast 6k....mine were set around 6200 I believe.

yea...I had my vortech/auto setup moving pretty well for the power

 

[330CubeGt]

Only way a slick will be better then a DR on a auto car is if the car has no suspention flex at all and you need a softer slick to soak up the shock. My Auto car with drag radials works much better but im also on a v6 rear spring with 1 coil cut and front coil overs etc etc so its more track friendly. So your really going to do some trial and error to see what works best for your car as it sits. Definitely raise the shift points to 6000-6200 car might not make any more power that high in the rpms but it shouldn't drop off either.

 

[1997GT4.6]

With lowering springs you really mess with the weight transfer as well as the pinion angle. Very important factors with a launch. Although you are cutting 1.9's which aren't bad but some lower 60's would do you a hell of a lot more help with the ET. Although I've seen other mustangs with lowering springs still cutting decent 60's. Mine won't hook with a DR to save its life due to horrible weight transfer.

 

[justinschmidt1]

Only way a slick will be better then a DR on a auto car is if the car has no suspention flex at all and you need a softer slick to soak up the shock. My Auto car with drag radials works much better but im also on a v6 rear spring with 1 coil cut and front coil overs etc etc so its more track friendly. So your really going to do some trial and error to see what works best for your car as it sits. Definitely raise the shift points to 6000-6200 car might not make any more power that high in the rpms but it shouldn't drop off either.

Based on what?

I dont see any benefit to a DR unless you plan on running it on the street.

I even trapped a higher MPH on my slicks vs my DR.

Pick up a set of 15x7 v6 tri bars and put some slicks on them, swap them on at the track and your car will hook, I promise you. Skip wasting a dime on the suspension.

You could try a DR but dont say I didnt warn you when you cant launch on them without spinning

With lowering springs you really mess with the weight transfer as well as the pinion angle. Very important factors with a launch. Although you are cutting 1.9's which aren't bad but some lower 60's would do you a hell of a lot more help with the ET. Although I've seen other mustangs with lowering springs still cutting decent 60's. Mine won't hook with a DR to save its life due to horrible weight transfer.

Which is why I said do a slick and not a DR since he is lowered. Been there, done that, car wouldnt hook on a DR.

 

[Hickrocket1258]

This is good info and I'm kind of going with Justin on this. I found some Pro Stars for really cheap from someone I used to work with. Looks like slicks will be going on them.

 

[justinschmidt1]

This is good info and I'm kind of going with Justin on this. I found some Pro Stars for really cheap from someone I used to work with. Looks like slicks will be going on them.

That will work, I picked up my slicks used on craigslist for like 75 bucks for the pair! lol

 

[1997GT4.6]

Based on what?

I dont see any benefit to a DR unless you plan on running it on the street.

I even trapped a higher MPH on my slicks vs my DR.

Pick up a set of 15x7 v6 tri bars and put some slicks on them, swap them on at the track and your car will hook, I promise you. Skip wasting a dime on the suspension.

You could try a DR but dont say I didnt warn you when you cant launch on them without spinning




Which is why I said do a slick and not a DR since he is lowered. Been there, done that, car wouldnt hook on a DR.

I never advised him to not run a slick? I didn't even give advise on what tire to run lol. But I would agree, run a slick if you are not getting traction. But I think its best to find out why you are not getting traction, although the OP's case is very different from mine. So, in conclusion I agree with you Mr. Justin. Damn your old GT moved out! Makes me wish I would have kept mine and followed your lead.

 

[330CubeGt]

Justin your a fuc king moron...

 

[Hickrocket1258]

Found 15x10s and 15x8s Weld Pro Stars for $300 from someone I know. On my way to 11s this year I hope.