1995 Cobra 351w Swap

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Carl The Cobra

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If you are going to spend money anywhere, spend it on cylinder heads and a cam that is matched to your needs. What ever the future plans are, make sure the n/a version of the motor flows as efficiently as possible. Building a budget low flowing motor and throwing a turbo on will be a waste of potential.

Like Evil said, a 408 with GT40 type heads, don't do it. It will only make a good low RPM truck / towing motor. I'm using RHS Pro Action 180cc heads (2.02 and 1.60) on my 347. Very happy so far with them, but looking back wish I would have gone with the 200's or even the 215's. Here is some good reading on RHS:

https://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2006/04/RHSHeads/index.php

That being said, RHS is a viable option. RHS 215's or AFR 225's would be more appropriate. Trick Flow 225 11R's would be very good, but not cheap. There is Dart in various configurations also, very good cylinder head.

Not everyone agrees with everything this guy says, but here is some good info on choosing a decent cylinder head:


I'm also using the Holley Sniper, if you are interested in details check out my build log here. I love it, but have different goals than most for the car.

Ok good to know my plan would be to pick up a good turbo top end kit. Something with tons of flow since I would really love to go single turbo. Spending most of the budget there makes sense, if I am na at first will the turbo cam with no boost hurt performance? I will have to give that article and video a read/watch tonight, thank you. On the note of your Holley sniper, do you run it solo (as in no Holley ecu) if so is possible can it run e85? I do believe the sniper system looks like a really good setup for noob safe tuning, is such true or is it more complex than I think. If I run boost it will be no more then 7 lbs most likely since trans can only hold 700 ft lbs of torque.


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50HSN95

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Ok good to know my plan would be to pick up a good turbo top end kit. Something with tons of flow since I would really love to go single turbo. Spending most of the budget there makes sense, if I am na at first will the turbo cam with no boost hurt performance?


Here is something to add to the watch list. I know it is only one source, but have talked to my engine builder and he said pretty much the same thing Richard does.This is geared toward an LS motor, but it is an air pump no matter what the name brand or make. The dyno time the guy above has is all at Westech so take that with a grain of salt also.

I will have to give that article and video a read/watch tonight, thank you. On the note of your Holley sniper, do you run it solo (as in no Holley ecu) if so is possible can it run e85? I do believe the sniper system looks like a really good setup for noob safe tuning, is such true or is it more complex than I think. If I run boost it will be no more then 7 lbs most likely since trans can only hold 700 ft lbs of torque.


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The Sniper has it's own self contained ECU, and is programmable with the Holley EFI software but not to the extent as a Terminator or Dominator. It is able to be programmed though with the most basic of engine info and can "self program" from there.

It is very user friendly. The regular Sniper is not set up for boost from the factory but can be configured to do so through the tuning software, but is only good to ~650 horse. There is a Super Sniper that is configured for boost in 2 versions, a 4 and 8 injector configuration. The 8 injector is good to ~1200 horse.

Holley does not recommend E85 with the Sniper. I have not gotten a direct answer as to why but first guess is because of all of the bare machined aluminum surfaces but that is just a guess. I have not tried it, but others on the Holley EFI forum have however are not running it all the time.
 

50HSN95

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I should also preface all of this with, no need to reinvent the wheel. Granted I should take a lot of my own advise there but I just like learning and doing something different. Regarding the long block, tons of combos out there that are probably pretty similar to what you would like to do.
 
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Carl The Cobra

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I should also preface all of this with, no need to reinvent the wheel. Granted I should take a lot of my own advise there but I just like learning and doing something different. Regarding the long block, tons of combos out there that are probably pretty similar to what you would like to do.

Well I am open to any, and all recommendations. This build is not to be anything fancy, but I want reliable and fun power.


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evilcw311

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Turbo cam will be fine na. They don’t have a lot of overlap which is big for blower motors but there’s no reason it will hurt anything. It won’t have as much power but shouldn’t be anything like a 50% loss or nothing. Actually a lot of turbo cams aren’t spec’d much different from factory cams.


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Carl The Cobra

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Turbo cam will be fine na. They don’t have a lot of overlap which is big for blower motors but there’s no reason it will hurt anything. It won’t have as much power but shouldn’t be anything like a 50% loss or nothing. Actually a lot of turbo cams aren’t spec’d much different from factory cams.


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Ok good to know. Also if I have the chance to snag a 351 c do I go for it?


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evilcw311

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Ok good to know. Also if I have the chance to snag a 351 c do I go for it?


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I’d never say no to a bigger motor but in all honesty stick to the 351w for ease of swap. Everything is easier and parts are plentiful


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Agree with @evilcw311 100% on sticking with the Windsor based power plant... I've got a 351M in mine and yeh the canted valves have their own advantages and disadvantages, but you have a lot broader support with the Windsor head based units.. A lot more head selection, better header choice are the two easiest things I can think of right off the top, not to mention Cleveland blocks, gennie heads and internals are getting to be expensive and hard to find. A 351W truck roller is a good junkyard starting point and will handle 5-700 hp if the bottom end is built right studded and with a crank girdle. At those levels you are pushing a stock 302 at possibly splitting in the lifter valley. If you really wanna toss some $$$ at it you can get an aftermarket block but the junkyard truck block will suffice up to a safe level around what you're looking at I think..
 
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Carl The Cobra

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Ok good to know I found a couple options. For the truck block and should be moving in on one soon!
 
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Carl The Cobra

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I stepped back on building it myself, and am looking at Tre Performance. They have a really nice forged 351w to a 408 ci for 2600 bottom end only. What kind of cc heads should I be looking at to pair with that bottom end? Also is this a good deal looking realistically to spend 6,000 on a solid motor, and keep it NA for now add boost later is that realistic? The 6,000 would basically cover forged bottom end, heads, cam, and intake.

Link to Motor: https://treperformance.com/i-1706566-ford-351w-408ci-stroker-performance-short-block.html?network=g&device=c&keyword=&campaign=1413523114&adgroup=pla-361177590954&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6PD3BRDPARIsAN8pHuEolLIUZgcs-OJx8_H2HasL6m13cm9O0zP2-D_J01qTKymM6tiqch8aAriKEALw_wcB
 
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Carl The Cobra

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today marks the death of this thread i am changing what engine i want and am going to shy away from the pushrods planning to go to a 2v 4.6 sohc planning to get my motor this week and just got a storage unit for the car and a place to build the project going to open a new thread right now
 

93 Savage

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The mustang uses different brackets and water pumps then anything else that used either a 302 or 351. So you wanna use the brackets that came in the 94-95 mustang gt. They will all fully bolt up to the 351 and make your swap a million times easier.

If going long tubes or turbo you need to make sure they work with the TF heads. Otherwise you’ll have issues. The AFR heads are easier to line headers up with. $10k might be doable but you need to really do some bargain shopping. The t56 kits are typically around $4-5k alone after taxes and shipping and you’ll easily have over $5k in the motor. Good heads are gonna be around $2k, forged stroker kits around $1,500-2,000, all the machine work and assembly around another $1,500-2,000.

This doesn’t include a bigger fuel system or any electronics.


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So all the brackets and accessories from the 94 to 95 mustang's 302 will fit on the 351w motor??
 

evilcw311

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So all the brackets and accessories from the 94 to 95 mustang's 302 will fit on the 351w motor??

It all bolts straight up. No issues at all. Don’t forget you need the timing cover and water pump as well


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93 Savage

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It all bolts straight up. No issues at all. Don’t forget you need the timing cover and water pump as well


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Cool deal man. Thank's!!! Yes sir I'm using a 94 to 95 timing cover
 

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