1996 Pacific Green BBF Project

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PWNY

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So, I'm getting dangerously close to actually starting the build. Some unexpected health concerns arose with my son and car parts were not a priority over the last year and a half.
We are now through the woods and can start making progress. Recently I have moved the car from my driveway into the garage. I have video evidence.
I will be posting videos on my youtube channel moderate performance and on here.
 

CobraRGuy

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I was under the impression that the difference between a 4x4 automatic and a 2wd automatic was just the tail housing. I'm not positive about this, but you may want to look into that vs. buying a whole transmission. I believe on a 2wd the tail housing bolts onto the main transmission case, and on 4x4s the transfer case bolts there. Again, I don't know this as fact, but I did look into putting a Raptor 4-mode transfer case into my '18 F150, and that's all it takes with the 10-speeds. You do also have to replace the switch on the dash and the transmission control module. Again, with the C6, things may very well be different.
 
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So the engine I picked up for the car had a Crane "RV" camshaft
204/216 duration @ .050 and .487/.518 lift 112 Lobe separation angle.
I have decided I want a little more cam but not too much that I need a convertor so I picked up a Thumpr 34-600-5
226/241 duration @ .050 .506/.493 lift 107 Lobe separation angle.
I picked this cam for a few reasons
1 - I think the longer exhaust duration will help out the heads. The 460 exhaust ports look a bit restrictive.
2 - Tighter lobe separation angle will help the higher rpm hp
3 - I want it to chop!
I also got the Comp DLC (Diamond Like Coating) lifters.
 

96blak54

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Without looking at comps specs, running the numbers into a cam event calculator, that cam is street friendly and has a serious overlap for chop! Should be the ticket you are looking for!

Edit, I just looked at comps specs and it looks like one of their thumper cams! Its not a performance cam and thats not a bad thing, more of a fun street show off thumping cam and thats cool!
 
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Without looking at comps specs, running the numbers into a cam event calculator, that cam is street friendly and has a serious overlap for chop! Should be the ticket you are looking for!

Edit, I just looked at comps specs and it looks like one of their thumper cams! Its not a performance cam and thats not a bad thing, more of a fun street show off thumping cam and thats cool!
It is a Thumpr cam. I know they are regarded as a "noise" cam but I did see some dyno comparisons and they actually work well. There was an episode of Engine Masters where they used thumpr cams because they actually made good power with whatever they were testing (I'll have to look up the episode again.)
And let's face it, 90% of the time when someone cams up their engine, they are just looking for that chop lol
 

96blak54

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It is a Thumpr cam. I know they are regarded as a "noise" cam but I did see some dyno comparisons and they actually work well. There was an episode of Engine Masters where they used thumpr cams because they actually made good power with whatever they were testing (I'll have to look up the episode again.)
And let's face it, 90% of the time when someone cams up their engine, they are just looking for that chop lol
You are absolutely correct!
 
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Took the bottom end apart of the 460 and realized how dirty this engine is. The intake manifold was not bolted down to the engine when it was stored in a barn lol. Connecting rod bearings are showing the copper layer but are worn evenly. A couple of cylinders have some interesting deposits/residue on the walls but I think I can get away with just a dingle ball hone. I will take the engine block and pistons to get cleaned up at work. One of the perks of working at a parts store/machine shop.
 
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Finally got around to taking apart my $400 engine and I am glad I didn't pay more (he was originally asking $800). There is a lot of dirt in this engine. I was hoping to just remove heads, inspect cylinders and slam it back together but I need tp take it all apart and put it through the bath at work. (I work at a parts store/machine shop). There is some discoloring on a couple of the cylinder walls which I think will disappear with a quick dingle ball hone. There is no roughness on those spots. Connecting rod bearings have worn to the copper layer but it is uniform ware so it should be good to just do new bearings. (sorry no pics of bearings at this time)


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weendoggy

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Those rod bearings lived their life. I'd be cautious on the cylinder walls and make sure they're concentric and that "stain" didn't damage the surface.
 
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After further inspection of the engine block, I realized it's too dirty for just brake clean. Took it to work and it had a nice bath. Crankshaft got mag checked and no cracks so it got a nice little polish. Cylinders have .002 taper. Pistons look kinda scuffed. Wanting to do flat top pistons and machine the block to .040 (block is currently at .030). Just waiting for the pocket book to catch up.

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