1998 2v Headers?

[98Warhorse]

Im looking for a set of Headers, choosing between a set of BBK's, Mac, Pypes and Pacesetter. I dont know any other brands that might be semi affordable.

I know i should get long tubes for the extra hp and tq that they offer, i just dont know the actual difference in quality from brand to brand. Also i need to know which diameter is most acceptable.

Thanks.

 

[Shifty Powers]

I believe kooks makes 2v headers. SLP does as well..

Bassani makes mid-lengths.

If you get a set get ceramic coated. You will want a tuner when you get them as well.

Almost all of the brands, albeit a few, require you to drop the k member or raise the engine

Diameter. I dont believe for our cars there are really any options here. So you should be good to go

 

[MustangChris]

quality:
bassani
ford racing

the rest is just... the rest. lol.

i personally suggest avoiding BBK and Kooks.

I had ford racing shorty headers and I loved the fitment and the quality.

I had a basani catted x pipe and loved it. The fitment and quality was stellar.

As for long tubes, that limits your choices a little bit. I'd look into SLP and headman, see what they offer.

 

[Ninety8stang]

My friend purchased a set of JBA replica LT's off ebay for a friend and they actually were a decent fitting header. there was a spot that rubbed against the k-member mount but i little ball point hammer took care of that issue. they were only $220 shipped and it came with gaskets and hardware. pretty good deal IMO

also i say if you're going to go through the trouble to put headers on the car you should just go with LT's. You'll be so much happier that you did and you get just a slightly more aggressive sound from them.

 

[Ninety8stang]

this is them. they upped the price $20 but i still think its a BA deal.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LONG-TUBE-RACING-SS-MANIFOLD-HEADER-EXHAUST-96-04-FORD-MUSTANG-GT-4-6L-V8-SOHC-/180922160803?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AMustang&hash=item2a1fcd16a3&vxp=mtr#ht_4193wt_1272

 

[98Warhorse]

I just don't believe in paying premium for brand recognition, I really don't think two companies can make a steel pipe the exact same dimensions and diameter and one flows better than the other beecause its shiny and carries a name brand. This is the reason I want to stick to a midlevel brand when it comes to this sort of part. Now if there was a difference in structure or the type of steel used + durability then I would consider it.

MustangChris- I've looked at the ford racing shortys and am considering a set, would you say you noticed a considerable difference in power between long tubes and shorties? Ide love to skip the headaches.

Everyone feel free to chime in on the power difference question, Its my theory that the difference is extremly minimaland the difference is a myth simply because I've never heard of anyone purchasing headers twice and documenting actual dyno differences.

 

[boosted98]

Ive personaly had good luck with the mac long tubes.. I had them on my 2v bullit swap and on my 4v 04 cobra swap. No leaks ,good fit and worked with an automatic transmission (barely)..lol.. They come ceramic coated and have egr connection and o2 bosses.. If ur going to install them with oem k member then u need yo lift the engine. But unless u have an aftermarket kmember u might have to do that with all of them. Good luck. I bought mines on ebay for $450

 

[98Warhorse]

I was looking at the Mac longtubes, I'm running a cat back and I love the quality and sound.

 

[Shifty Powers]

Shortys are not worth it specially if you plan future mods. Its a waste of money to net 1-3 hp. vs the claimed 15 of LTs. Plus again if you end up going with more engine mods to push more power later, the LTs will help support that even more.
Again, do not get chrome LTs or shortys or whatever. That shit will peal off real quick. Ceramic coating is generally the norm.

Also, with brands like Kooks. You arent just paying a premium for a brand name. They are one of the few brands that allows you to install the LTs without dropping the K member. And work on the tranny without taking the LT completely off. Basically that is what you pay for.

 

[vermilion]

ebay headers you say. they fit like butta. im a technical kinda fella. on the passenger side use header bolts to your hearts content with red loctite. on the driver's side use Ford OEM stud's with red loctite. you'll wrestle around and hate life otherwise. unfortunately to do both with a stock k-member you'll have to remove it or fenagle them in with the engine raised and supported.

 

[Ninety8stang]

ebay headers you say. they fit like butta. im a technical kinda fella. on the passenger side use header bolts to your hearts content with red loctite. on the driver's side use Ford OEM stud's with red loctite. you'll wrestle around and hate life otherwise. unfortunately to do both with a stock k-member you'll have to remove it or fenagle them in with the engine raised and supported.

For sure, headers are a pain in the ass to get in in general. It's really hard to get to the bolts with any header in these cars. Theres such a low tolerance between the header and the sub frame/shock tower that it's akward to get a tool in there.

 

[FrankenStang]

i hate to say it but as far as headers go for the stang 4.6's , EBAY is the wayy to go...you can get exacpt duplicates of namebrand headers or even the namebrand headers them selves for under 250 bucks...wish they had some for my cougar,lol cheapest is 700 some dallards because some jerk put a has a patten on them..

 

[98Warhorse]

I figured i was going to have to get long tubes as much as i want to avoid it, i'll probably look into Kooks, i like the idea of being able to remove and work on my trans or clutch if i have to without unbolting the headers.

 

[Goldmember]

Avoid Pypes is my 2 cents, their stuff is poor-fitting crap. I had their stuff on my old GT and the catback had to be replaced after one year- the flanges rotted out. Great sound but horrible quality.

 

[FrankenStang]

are there any long tubes that can bolt rite up..WITH OUT having to lift or drop the engine? because im parking lot pimping.

 

[MustangChris]

are there any long tubes that can bolt rite up..WITH OUT having to lift or drop the engine? because im parking lot pimping.

i dont think that would be physically possible.

my kooks came in 5 pcs. per side. that might be your only option. One tube at a time, then a collector.

 

[98Warhorse]

Kooks is out of the question, im sure they make a great quality product but i think a mid level brand will do just as good at half the price, even if it does take a bit more work to get them on.

I've heard good stuff about Pypes, sorry to hear about your bad experience. my cousin currently has a set of mufflers on his 12 mustang and really likes them. I bought a UPR X pipe the same year i purchased the car in 2008 and have yet to have any problems with it, i can say the same for my Mac catback. I think i might go ahead and just get the Mac ceramic coated long tubes, from what i've seen they are fairly priced and i believe them to be of fair quality.

 

[JerZeyStangz]

From data over the years. You are paying premium for fit and finish. There isn't a much variance between LT's they all make within the same power, some slightly better than others because how easy air flow between smooth and rough surface inside the tube. Overall the top brands in the business is Kooks, and American Racing headers. They are both about 1200-1500 with a matching midpipe. Lower level is like bassani, SLP, Mac etc. I've heard good things about Mac, they also have high rate of making exhaust pipes tuck nicely under the carriage of the car versus scraping on the ground like SLP's if your lowered, this can be a big problem for people who have close to 2" drop like me. A speed bump can definitely sandwich those collectors.... They have good fitment, and there quality is decently good. Most of my info I got from was at Modular Fords. They have some hardcore tech on that site.

 

[98Warhorse]

Its good to know that the power doesn't really vary between brands, i kinda figured it wouldn't and it makes sense on the quality and fitment. i kinda dont want to shortchange myself on the extra power so i'm going with a set of long tubes for sure.

 

[vermilion]

I welded a -10 stainless bung on the egr port. Cut in half the egr tube and slipped a -10 female connector and welded the tube back together for a good egr port.


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