so I plan on rebuilding my buddies 2v in his 03 gt. The cards a manual and bone stock other than exhaust. I did his valve seals in the past. And did a compression test and found low compression. (Bad rings I’m assuming) the car lacks the umff that it used to have. However it does run good and is a great daily. He drives it almost everyday and takes 3-5 hour trips in it with no problems. However he misses the power it used to have and hates the smoke. So we’ve decided to rebuild it. It’s my first motor I’m ever rebuilding solo and my first mod motor. I have the tools needed. And info such as torque specs. Going oem king bearings (rod and main) ford head bolts, stock rods and pistons (if their not damaged)and new rings. Any tips going into this? Also what would a great assembly lube be? Thanks
2003 2v rebuild
- Thread starter d.garza18
- Start date
ttocs
Post Whore
I wish I were that brave and had a friend that brave or possibly foolish in my case 
How low was the compression?
If any of the rings are shot, moisture in the crankcase will be present. Check the bottom of the oil fill cap. It will show signs of moisture being present. Itll look like milky water dripping off the bottom.
Since they are pi heads, id be betting the compression loss on either valve seat sealing or lash adjusters.
With the modular engine....its almost never ring sealing issues. Unless some sort of power adder was used in its past life. Im not saying ring issues arent possible with a bone stock engine, but most times its normally something else.
Youve been in it before changing the seals, did you remove any of the lash adjusters?
If any of the rings are shot, moisture in the crankcase will be present. Check the bottom of the oil fill cap. It will show signs of moisture being present. Itll look like milky water dripping off the bottom.
Since they are pi heads, id be betting the compression loss on either valve seat sealing or lash adjusters.
With the modular engine....its almost never ring sealing issues. Unless some sort of power adder was used in its past life. Im not saying ring issues arent possible with a bone stock engine, but most times its normally something else.
Youve been in it before changing the seals, did you remove any of the lash adjusters?
No didn’t remove any. And the guy he bought the car from said he had it rebuilt recently, so we were thinking maybe he didn’t break it in properly?
If it were me, i try bleeding the lashers first. While lashers are out, apply air pressure to each cylinder individually. Listen to air movement from intake, crankcase, and exhaust.
If bleeding the lashers with some heat doesnt result in restored power, pulling the engine apart will be the only fix. What ive seen with messing around with all my junk parts are the pi head exhaust valves not sealing when seating. Meaning a valve job along with valve guides. You did mention replacing the valve seals which is a 100% clear indication of sloppy valve guides. And ford wasnt real strict on tight tolerance with npi and pi valve guides. The tolerance being on the upper end making the valve side load very sloppy.....killing valve seat seal and taking out the valve seals.
Another is loose in cylinder carbon deposits sticking on the exhaust valve face keeping the valve from sealing on the seat. Its ever so tiny, but makes a huge difference to a 2000psi cylinder under compression. This in turn will beat a valve seat as well, killing valve seat face seal before the carbon finally moves on.
All in all at the end of the conclusion.....a rebuild!
If bleeding the lashers with some heat doesnt result in restored power, pulling the engine apart will be the only fix. What ive seen with messing around with all my junk parts are the pi head exhaust valves not sealing when seating. Meaning a valve job along with valve guides. You did mention replacing the valve seals which is a 100% clear indication of sloppy valve guides. And ford wasnt real strict on tight tolerance with npi and pi valve guides. The tolerance being on the upper end making the valve side load very sloppy.....killing valve seat seal and taking out the valve seals.
Another is loose in cylinder carbon deposits sticking on the exhaust valve face keeping the valve from sealing on the seat. Its ever so tiny, but makes a huge difference to a 2000psi cylinder under compression. This in turn will beat a valve seat as well, killing valve seat face seal before the carbon finally moves on.
All in all at the end of the conclusion.....a rebuild!
Yeah at this point he has the funds and would rather have it rebuilt entirely just to have that comfort of knowing it is. He’s even contemplating on building it as well. But all and all I’m excited to tear into it
Do not remove the engine, even if the cylinder walls are torn up, the rings are fine and good enough. BLAK is right, look at the junk on the valve guide, just pull the heads and get a GOOD head job, I love a good head job...
All the pi heads i have, the exhaust seat looks exactly like that!
I forgot the money shot..
This is why your car sucks, all the PI valves and seats look like this. Put in new guides a 4 angle valve seat, run a Flexhone through the ports just a little, deck the heads .030, buy my PI+ cams, go like stink..
This is why your car sucks, all the PI valves and seats look like this. Put in new guides a 4 angle valve seat, run a Flexhone through the ports just a little, deck the heads .030, buy my PI+ cams, go like stink..
Silver95bird
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All the pre-1998 valve seals ive seen leaked like it was their job, from day one. Even cars we bought new.
1qt every 1000 miles or so.
They went to Viton? seals starting in 98.
But man do those exhausts take a pounding! Im amazed those seal at all.
I like old h2s's cam specs. I might go a degree or two either way but that would depend on the application. Tight LSA, advanced to around 106-108.
Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
1qt every 1000 miles or so.
They went to Viton? seals starting in 98.
But man do those exhausts take a pounding! Im amazed those seal at all.
I like old h2s's cam specs. I might go a degree or two either way but that would depend on the application. Tight LSA, advanced to around 106-108.
Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
What would the cost of this be if I did this myself?I forgot the money shot..
This is why your car sucks, all the PI valves and seats look like this. Put in new guides a 4 angle valve seat, run a Flexhone through the ports just a little, deck the heads .030, buy my PI+ cams, go like stink..
