2v or or pushrod?

SN90FiveOh

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I'm looking to get a GT really soon. I just wanted to get some pros and cons of each. I really like the 94/95s with the 5.0, but at the same time I could possibly get a new edge. What exactly should I look out for? Thanks guys!
 

rz5.0

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I'm looking to get a GT really soon. I just wanted to get some pros and cons of each. I really like the 94/95s with the 5.0, but at the same time I could possibly get a new edge. What exactly should I look out for? Thanks guys!
94-95 hands down. .
 

white95

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Can't go wrong either way.. Here's a few quick points:


pushrod Pro's:

easy to work on
reliable
parts interchange with Fox Mustang
Typically have more low end torque than the milder, smaller 281

pushrod Con's:

It's ODB1 and requires a chip to tune
Not really any development for new parts in the past 10 years
Can't achieve meaningful power production above 4800 rpms without ditching the stock heads


Modular pro's:

parts as interchange with just about any Ford built from 1992-2004
PI swap is cheap easy HP on a NPI car
can use a handheld to tune
Have a cool, exhaust trumpeting sound around 2k rpms
Turn higher rpms easier than pushrod engines


con's:

timing chain replacement can be frightening to newbies
cam swap can also frighten newbies
Have a cool, exhaust trumpeting sound around 2k rpms
 

Hill x 21

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Both motors have parts readily available so it would be more or less what your end goal is (daily, weekend cruiser, drag, track etc). Being limited to only GT's, I'd hunt down a 94/95 GTS.
 

Burninriverdiver

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The 4.6 seems more crammed into my engine bay, and is difficult to reach a few things. It can be intimidating to change cams, timing chain etc but not that bad. I surprisingly don't get horrible gas mileage either (20 driving regular, 26 all hi way). I can't speak for the 5.0 but a definite pro is that in my area, parts are cheap and widely available on craigslist.
 

white95

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That's true, my 95 drinks more gas than my 98 does but it does have a stoked 351w too..
 

SN90FiveOh

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Whatever I get is going to be my daily. I just want to make good reliable power. I do alot of highway driving and I need to be sure that the engine will last. At the same time I want to know if one engine responds better to mods; Cam(s), heads, exhaust. I also want a 5 speed and have heard alot of bad about t5s. Should i stay away from the 5.0 if i want to make more power with a 5 speed?
 

lwarrior1016

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Working on the modular is super easy and I will be there to help OP with the work so that is no problem. What about the longevity of the 302? How many of those make it to 300k + miles without being rebuilt? The modulars do that all the time when maintained. Valve train weight is something to think about in the 302 compared to the 281. The cam profile has much better control of the valves in the modular because of how big the lobes are.
 

rz5.0

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Maintenance is the key to longevity on any engine. . i like the t5 better than the t45.. i also like the simplicity of the 302..
 

lwarrior1016

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I'm a little on the other side of the spectrum there. I like the t45 over the t5. Then I really think simplicity is based on experience. To me, the 2v is easy as they come to work on, simple design that just takes a little bit of understanding.
 

rz5.0

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I think the simplicity is in the design.. the 302 had less moving parts. .. i have lil experience with the 2v. I can never see my self owning one either. . The t45 feels to notchy for me.. reverse sucks on every t45 ive driven. . Im ready to ditch my t45 for a t56..
 

lwarrior1016

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I think the simplicity is in the design.. the 302 had less moving parts. .. i have lil experience with the 2v. I can never see my self owning one either. . The t45 feels to notchy for me.. reverse sucks on every t45 ive driven. . Im ready to ditch my t45 for a t56..

I am not trying to start a battle here, just conversation. With that out of the way, how does the 302 have less moving parts? Both have the same #of valves and rocker arms. The 2v doesn't have push rods, then I guess you could compare lifter to the lash adjusters of the 2v but they are really different. I understand the 2 timing chains vs 1 chain, or gear to gear if you prefer, but then the valve train weight that is on the cam in the 302 is substantially higher than that of the 2v.
 

lwarrior1016

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The comparison of lifters to lash adjusters wouldn't really work because all the lash adjuster do is pump up with oil to keep the rockers tight, vs the lifters that ride on the cam lobe and move up and down with every rotation of the cam.
 

ProKiller

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Working on the modular is super easy and I will be there to help OP with the work so that is no problem. What about the longevity of the 302? How many of those make it to 300k + miles without being rebuilt? The modulars do that all the time when maintained. Valve train weight is something to think about in the 302 compared to the 281. The cam profile has much better control of the valves in the modular because of how big the lobes are.

i don't know about that. you have the ever common timing guides breaking down all the time and the plastic intake cracking. the 302s don't really have any hardcore mechanical failures like that. rear main seal is about the only thing that takes serious time to tear down. other common problems with the 302 are harmonic balancer rubber pushing out and the PIP sensor going bad. both of which are pretty cheap fixes. not saying the 2v isn't a great platform but you see more significant failures and lower power numbers on them then you do a 302. and as far as the PI swap, okay, yes that's a "cheap" upgrade but if you do the same "cheap" swap to a 302 with cast iron GT40 heads, you'll still have more power.

the strongest reason for a 2v in my book is just the age of the vehicle. all the 94-95s are now over 20 years old where as you can still get a 2v thats got low mileage on it and still well maintained. saying the same for a 94-95 is a lot harder. the upside is that the engine parts for 302s are significantly cheaper. a trickflow top end kit is $2k vs. $3.5k for a 2v. easy of tuning a 2v is handsdown a winner there. tuning obd1 sucks.

Ultimately if it was me, i'd decide first if i wanted a sn95 or a new edge. if sn95, then a 94-95 is the winner. if new edge body floats your boat more, then 2v it is.
 

rz5.0

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I can see the way you put it.. not looking to argue either. . always like a good discussion. . Will return later..
 

rz5.0

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2v timing set
54%20timing%20set.jpg.cf.jpg


302 timing set
clo-9-1135_w.jpg.cf.jpg


Simplicity. .
 

white95

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Working on the modular is super easy and I will be there to help OP with the work so that is no problem. What about the longevity of the 302? How many of those make it to 300k + miles without being rebuilt? The modulars do that all the time when maintained. Valve train weight is something to think about in the 302 compared to the 281. The cam profile has much better control of the valves in the modular because of how big the lobes are.

My stock engine had around 250k when we pulled it. She still had good oil pressure and didn't burn oil.
 

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