2v or or pushrod?

JerZeyStangz

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I will voice 2V since I owned one for about 10+ years. The engine is very easy to work on and trickflow already uncorked the power from 2V back in 09. I think its settled that H/C/I 2V will out shine a stock displacement H/C/I 302. Is it more expensive yes, is it worth it on NPI long block HELL YES. Doubling the power out put is always worth it in my book. I would of done years ago but we all have other priorities. I'm not knocking the 302 because I helped work on them but each engine has its pros and cons. Once you understand 2V modular and what needs to be improved on you can surprise a lot of people and crush a lot egos. This is what I am planning to do when I do a F1-A 8 rib conversion. All these engines need is heavy duty rotating assembly and some forced induction. I think thats way better than punching out a 302 or buying a aftermarket block to hold the power but to each it owns.
 

1997GT4.6

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I'm feeling like you guys have derailed the OP's thread. Unless I read it wrong (which is possible), the debate is 94/95 5.0 or NEW EDGE 4.6
With that said, for daily driving and fun the 4.6 is a lot smoother. A bolt on new edge will lay down about 230whp, plus look nicer inside and outside. The 4.6 is easier to tune, and gears can be calibrated via a tuner on new edges versus speed cal being wired in on the curvy SN95s.
But building a 5.0 is a lot more fun and possibly easier if you are good with older motors. Don't forget the 5.0 will be cheaper to build. After all is said and done the 4.6 gets my vote for being newer and smoother as a DD.
 

white95

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The amount of e-battling and e-thuggery associated with 5.0 vs 4.6 has been nothing short of astounding. There has been fighting between "siblings" than fighting with the LSx swap crowd. Still, if it weren't for the decades of pushrod Windsor V8's, there wouldn't have been development for the replacement modular engine series. There wouldn't have been a need for the 4.6 4V or even the 5.4. That would've meant no Mach 1, Terminator or GT500's Hell, without the mod motors, we never would've made it to the Coyote engine lineup.



Moral? It's good to be a Ford guy!


768995043af66f796f1c32512f90d61b.jpg
 

lwarrior1016

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^Amen!

Anything I have said was with no intention of fighting, or bashing pushrods, or anything like that. I like practically all of ford V8 line-up, pushrod and modular included. I was simply stating why I feel the modular is a better design and why it would fit the op better in what he is trying to accomplish. I do concur with you White, It is good to be a ford guy!
 

lwarrior1016

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2v timing set
54%20timing%20set.jpg.cf.jpg


302 timing set
clo-9-1135_w.jpg.cf.jpg


Simplicity. .

I see what you are saying here, and looking at this picture I can see how people would be hesitant to do the 2v because the timing looks more complex. However, when you get those pieces on the engine, all you do is line up the dots. Crankshaft dot @ 6 o'clock then the cams' dots line right up where they are supposed to be. As far as getting to the components, there is a lot more involved when removing the timing cover of a 2v, but then again, it isn't difficult at all.
 

lwarrior1016

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[MENTION=8095]ProKiller[/MENTION] I missed your comment yesterday, sorry about that. To me, chain guides on the modular are a routine maintenance thing just like a timing belt in a Mitsubishi needing to be changed at 80k miles. I think the plastic guides wear out because there is so much surface area in contact with the chain. I can say that is the biggest issue with the modular. You can fix it in just a few hours though. Now as far as the intake, that was just dumb. I have no way to defend it. It is a decent intake as far as hp and tq but the plastic/metal combination was stoopid! At that same time though, I wouldn't consider that a major mechanical failure. It only takes about 45 minutes to swap everything over and install a new intake manifold.
 

SLOW95GTS

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Dont forget spark plug blow outs on the 4.6, because of the lack of threads on the cylinder heads. Pray to god it doesnt suck it in instead of blowing it up. Thats why i wont own a modular 2v, and spun bearings on the 4v suck. Never again own a modular. If you know how to work on them your set, but my 5.0 has 200,000 miles and still taking the abuse at the track on nitrous and slicks.
 

GT Rob

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Had a Fox and an both where good now have I a new edge loving the difference in power
 

DropTopPony

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I haven't had any of the issues associated with my 4.6 that is over 100k and 19 years old.

That being said I really can't see either choice as a bad thing.

I would love to jump into a 94/95 because the 5.0 really is easy to work on but I like the modulars and like I said I have never had an issue or been left stranded in mine. I did purchase a new set of timing components to swap next time I am in there but I also consider that apart of routine maintenance that should be done every 100k or so just like other OHC engines.

Seriously can't go wrong with either.

These cars are cheap now and a great platform for a reliable driver.
 

JerZeyStangz

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I haven't had any of the issues associated with my 4.6 that is over 100k and 19 years old.

That being said I really can't see either choice as a bad thing.

I would love to jump into a 94/95 because the 5.0 really is easy to work on but I like the modulars and like I said I have never had an issue or been left stranded in mine. I did purchase a new set of timing components to swap next time I am in there but I also consider that apart of routine maintenance that should be done every 100k or so just like other OHC engines.

Seriously can't go wrong with either.

These cars are cheap now and a great platform for a reliable driver.

I agree. I owned my 96 for 10-11 years now and it hasn't missed a beat. A side from old rotted plastic that cracked behind alternator on the manifold its been a strong runner. Every engine even if it has the same architecture is going to have different problems. 01-04 2V's and 99-01 Cobras have issues such has if one day your running on low oil and you decided to do some spirited driving you could hurt the motor and of course the plastic timing chain guides could fail. I wish Ford didn't take the low oil light feature away, that could of saved many engines in the future but oh well.
 

A&F

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Dont forget spark plug blow outs on the 4.6, because of the lack of threads on the cylinder heads. Pray to god it doesnt suck it in instead of blowing it up. Thats why i wont own a modular 2v, and spun bearings on the 4v suck. Never again own a modular. If you know how to work on them your set, but my 5.0 has 200,000 miles and still taking the abuse at the track on nitrous and slicks.

How much power can a 302 make before the block splits?
 

A&F

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I wouldn't push past 550hp on a stock block.

Wheel or crank? I've always heard they split around 400whp.

Personally, considering how cheap a 351w is and that it has a stronger block and 50cc more displacement, I would never spend money on a 302.

Mod motors are considerably stronger.
 

GregT94SCC

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550 on a CNC'ed girdled block, at the crank. WHP varies by drive line.

351w is a better choice (I've built both) if you want to make really big power and use it. I run somewhere around 500hp at the crank in my 94 (D&D 306 pro bullet short block) and it feels like a reasonable limit for the platform to me.
 

evilcw311

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my factory 302 had over 200k before I pulled it. still pulling strong and no smoke, no rattle, no chatter from the valves. I have friends with 200k on 2 valves. as everyone has said, its all about the maintenance.

5.0 has a great low end torque that the 4.6 coudnt replicate in stock form

mod block holds up better at higher rpms and hp

mods don't have the same deep evil growl that a cammed pushrod has

too many pros and cons can be listed for both. Honestly if it was for me to do again it would really come down to what better deal I found first.
 

cameron57

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351 swap for the win

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