Wichers123
Well-Known Member
What tensioners are you using? It will do that because there is no oil pressure on the tensioners. The locks will keep it tight to the point it won't jump and oil pressure keeps the chain from slapping around.
2v quest for power
- Thread starter punched281
- Start date
Wichers123
Well-Known Member
Take a good detailed picture of the front with no slides and chains and then with everything together.
punched281
Active Member
The cloyes tensioners. The lock piece just keeps breaking... After 4 tensioners I figured it is something else going on..
punched281
Active Member
96blak54 found the problem! An oil plug was missing letting the oil pressure escape the tensioner. Thanks every one for the input. I will post up if this really was the only thing causing the problems.
DavidBoren
Active Member
Hopefully you found thr problem. I look forward to seeing an update from you within 24 hours that does NOT involve another timing chain issue. Hopefully your next update doesn't have any issues, but you can never hold your breath when it comes to those mod motors.
I kid, I kid. Good luck, man. I hope you get it all ironed out.
I kid, I kid. Good luck, man. I hope you get it all ironed out.
punched281
Active Member
I am about to get it ironed out, if by iron you mean start building an iron block with pushrods in it! haha Thanks, the plan is to tackle it tomorrow. So tomorrow night should be a positive update.
Awesome! I take no credit, easily over looked. I missed the oil galley plug thats really close to the water pump on the block but still behind the front cover. I built the engine tight and had enough pressure to keep the bottem end filled, but I scratch my head at the top end. Only thing I know that saved the top end was how tight I built the bottom.
DavidBoren
Active Member
I wish I could tell people that the pushrod five-oh was the answer. While reliable, it is sadly limited.
It's hard to tell people "should have just built a 302" when the factory block is only good for 500 horses. Lame. Nobody wants to go spend $2,000 on a block just to start their engine build. A lot of people didn't pay much more than that for their entire SN.
Anyways, I really wish you the best. Hope to hear some good news soon.
It's hard to tell people "should have just built a 302" when the factory block is only good for 500 horses. Lame. Nobody wants to go spend $2,000 on a block just to start their engine build. A lot of people didn't pay much more than that for their entire SN.
Anyways, I really wish you the best. Hope to hear some good news soon.
Ive built over 6 modulars now, all under $1500.
DavidBoren
Active Member
Mod motors are cheap and easy compared to the five-oh because your stock block isn't limited to 500hp. If you are even half way serious about building a pushrod five-oh, you have to start with an aftermarket block, which is enough to deter most people from even bothering with it.
To be honest, it's not even worth doing a head/cam/intake swap on a five-oh because you can leave everything stock and just bolt on a vortech and push the factory block to its limits... even with bone stock e7 heads.
To be honest, it's not even worth doing a head/cam/intake swap on a five-oh because you can leave everything stock and just bolt on a vortech and push the factory block to its limits... even with bone stock e7 heads.
Absolutely true ^
Crazy how reversed the scenario is between the 2 families. The 5.0 bottom ends hold up to 500hp but the block dont. The 4.6l block has no hp limit but the bottom end cuts out at 400hp
Crazy how reversed the scenario is between the 2 families. The 5.0 bottom ends hold up to 500hp but the block dont. The 4.6l block has no hp limit but the bottom end cuts out at 400hp
punched281
Active Member
And the mods can rev to crazy rpms!
Yea I'm hoping for 6-700 with the turbo on here!
Yea I'm hoping for 6-700 with the turbo on here!
Crazy!
DavidBoren
Active Member
Aren't the forged coyote rods interchangeable? And they are good for 700hp. Coyote rods are a lot cheaper than a 4-bolt pushrod block, that's for sure.
punched281
Active Member
Yea I believe so, the rotating assembly for mine was 800 shipped to my door..
punched281
Active Member
Fired it up, sounds great!
Next is the oil leaks still and need to get an nhra approved battery box.
Next is the oil leaks still and need to get an nhra approved battery box.
Awesomeness
punched281
Active Member
9.8 miles and still sounding healthy. This is a record fellas!
DavidBoren
Active Member
That is good to hear, sir. What's next on the list?
punched281
Active Member
She still leaks a little oil, so fix that. Weld up an nhra approved battery box. Rewire my ignition and fuel pump so it won't spontaneously combust. Small stuff till I get hitched!
She said "I'll be pissed if your car isn't running for our wedding!" Haha
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