333 Stroker won't keep an idle

[Andrew95GTS]

All the info about the motor is listed in my Sig. The thing is we can't get it to idle on its own so we can adjust the fuel pressure and timing. This is the first fuel injected car we have done anything serious to. We are wondering if maybe the throttle body is too small or if we actually need a 255 pump instead of the 190 pump that we have. We eliminated the smog pump but kept the egr. It is 10.5:1 compression. Any suggestions about where to start and what to do would be welcomed.
Thanks in advance!

 

[modo]

does the motor fire at all? has the distributor been dropped in correctly?

fuel pump and throttle body size would not matter to just have the car idle.

all the sensors (mass air meter etc) are all hooked up correct?

 

[Andrew95GTS]

It fires up no problem but it won't stay running below 2000rpm unless you have your foot on the gas. I was able to keep it running around 1k yesterday but still had my foot on the gas. As soon as I let up it cuts off. I drove it down the road and back and it was really lazy. I am going to turn the timing up and see if that will help because it is sounding like it doesn't have enough in it at the moment.

 

[CC'S95GT]

what is the base timing set to?
did you pull the spout to set it?
How old is the harmonic balancer?

 

[Andrew95GTS]

Base timing is at 10 at the moment. The balancer is a brand new Ford Racing balancer. Oh and I also have a Kirban Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator (just saw that I didn't have that in the sig).

 

[Andrew95GTS]

Oh nevermind about the 10 degrees timing. That was with the old motor, I just happened to remember that. We are going to set the timing this weekend with the spout out. And I say we cause its going to take one person to check the timing and another to keep it running. lol

 

[5.0kid]

well hopefully its just the timing then! lol, good luck with that this weekend!

 

[Andrew95GTS]

Just thought that I would update you guys!
Now have the timing set at 12 base (set it with the spout out).
Fuel pressure at 30 cause anymore than that and it was running rich.
Turned the MAF about 45 degrees towards the passenger side fender.
So now the car idles on its own and is drivable.
But when I come to a stop, if I don't bring it down gradually to an idle it will cut off.
I called and talked to my tuner and he said that it would be a good idea for me to bring the car in for a driveability tune (no WOT pulls) so I can get it broken in before the final tune.
So everything is going A LOT better now! :thumbsup:

 

[blackpony]

sounds like a vaccum leak to me. oh and after 20 mins of run time, that engine will be broke in.. fyi

 

[Venom351R]

Good luck getting it to idle good w/ that C&L meter

 

[Andrew95GTS]

sounds like a vaccum leak to me. oh and after 20 mins of run time, that engine will be broke in.. fyi

We checked all the vaccum lines and they are fine. That was our thought at first too. Spec says that we need to get 500 miles for the clutch to be broken in. That is what we are worried about getting broken in. The motor has ran for probably about 2 hours now and has 54 miles on it (a lot of idle time mostly). And the motor feels strong and. We haven't hit the floor yet but all it wants to do is spin like crazy.

Good luck getting it to idle good w/ that C&L meter

In did fine with the stock motor. We switched the tube inside the meter for the injector size. It idles good, it just wants to cut off after you go through the gears and then push the clutch in without bringing it to an idle slowly.

 

[Venom351R]

still has running issues thats the thing. Im not putting it all on the meter it deff needs a tune but Ive found C&L meters to be the most tempermental meters out there

 

[modo]

Just thought that I would update you guys!
Now have the timing set at 12 base (set it with the spout out).
Fuel pressure at 30 cause anymore than that and it was running rich.
Turned the MAF about 45 degrees towards the passenger side fender.
So now the car idles on its own and is drivable.
But when I come to a stop, if I don't bring it down gradually to an idle it will cut off.
I called and talked to my tuner and he said that it would be a good idea for me to bring the car in for a driveability tune (no WOT pulls) so I can get it broken in before the final tune.
So everything is going A LOT better now! :thumbsup:

sounds like the idle set screw isn't adjust right and the iac can't catch it fast enough. disconnect the iac, set the idle where you want it with the set screw on the throttle body, shut the car off then hook the iac back up. wouldn't hurt to pull the battery for a couple minutes too so it relearns itself. try it then

 

[blackpony]

It could also be the intake gaskets, tb gasket, or a leak in the intake tube.. Just an idea..

Gotcha about the clutch thing....

sounds like a vaccum leak to me. oh and after 20 mins of run time, that engine will be broke in.. fyi

We checked all the vaccum lines and they are fine. That was our thought at first too. Spec says that we need to get 500 miles for the clutch to be broken in. That is what we are worried about getting broken in. The motor has ran for probably about 2 hours now and has 54 miles on it (a lot of idle time mostly). And the motor feels strong and. We haven't hit the floor yet but all it wants to do is spin like crazy.

Good luck getting it to idle good w/ that C&L meter

In did fine with the stock motor. We switched the tube inside the meter for the injector size. It idles good, it just wants to cut off after you go through the gears and then push the clutch in without bringing it to an idle slowly.

 

[Andrew95GTS]

still has running issues thats the thing. Im not putting it all on the meter it deff needs a tune but Ive found C&L meters to be the most tempermental meters out there

Ok I got ya now.sounds like the idle set screw isn't adjust right and the iac can't catch it fast enough. disconnect the iac, set the idle where you want it with the set screw on the throttle body, shut the car off then hook the iac back up. wouldn't hurt to pull the battery for a couple minutes too so it relearns itself. try it then
[/quote]
I adjusted the idle with the set screw but still had the IAC hooked up. I will try that today and see what happens.

 

[95Grandtouring5.0]

Save yourself the time and the trouble and have that car dyno tuned, you won't regret it.

 

[Andrew95GTS]

Save yourself the time and the trouble and have that car dyno tuned, you won't regret it.

I am going to get it tuned at the same place that tuned my 03 GT earlier this year. They did a good job and I am really happy with the results that they got out of it. It feels like a completely different car after getting it tuned and it is just a basic bolt on car.

 

[Andrew95GTS]

Update time!
Got it tuned but the IAC is going bad so that is where the idle issue was coming from. He tuned it as good as he could to get it to idle without it.
Final #s after 6 pulls was - 362rwhp/400rwtq
Suprised the heck out of me and the tuner. hahaha

 

[CC'S95GT]

nice #'s

 

[5.0kid]

damn, great numbers with the tfs1 cam! what rpms was that at?

good you found out what was causing the idle problems though!