I have a chance to pick up a 351w for a good deal, I was wondering if a solid roller 351w is worth it compared to a hydraulic roller. I plan on making it a 408w with a turbo. Can anybody put some input in on this for me? Thanks
351w questions
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you can convert to hydraulic roller fairly easily if you use a small base circle cam, or you can get a conversion kit with conversion lifters for use with larger cams.
if you aren't stuck on using a hydraulic cam, there's plenty of cams off the shelf that will make great power
if you aren't stuck on using a hydraulic cam, there's plenty of cams off the shelf that will make great power
BLOWN 95GT
Active Member
It depends on what you are wanting to do? Im running a turbo custom grind hydraulic roller from comp cams in my turbo 357w but there are lots of racers running solid lift cams with very good results. You can run higher lift, and more rpms with a solid lift cam but you would need valve springs for the solid lift instead of hydraulic roller, and you would have to check your valve lash every once in a while. If your talking about using it for a daily driver I would pass and look for a hydraulic roller, but for a weekend warrior, playtoy, or race car hell yea I would go solid lift.
That's all I needed to hear, lol, somebody told me solid lifters have to be adjusted all the time and it's not worth it.
I want to build a 408 or 383 stroker, the bottom end will be built nice, I plan on doing it all myself. But thats good to hear about being able to use it and be able to make good power.
I want to build a 408 or 383 stroker, the bottom end will be built nice, I plan on doing it all myself. But thats good to hear about being able to use it and be able to make good power.
BLOWN 95GT
Active Member
Cam technology has come a LONG way in the last 5-6 years. Most of those myths are based on people's experiences with solid roller cams years ago.There seems to be some MYTH about solid rollers always needing to be adjusted. It is untrue for the most part. Yes you should always check your set-up every once in a while or prior to racing. Most times nothing needs to be done. IF you find yourself always adjusting something is wrong or your parts are failing. The most common issue is CHEAP rocker studs. They either pull out or the tops are not flat (Poly lock) and do not allow the lock to seat or seat properly. This combined with flex and the lock walk right out of the nut.
