94 gt engine problems

Big_T · May 6, 2012

Hello everyone, so recently my parts guy was telling me that there is some sort of mustang guru in town and he only lives 4 houses down from me. so the other day i went over his house and talked to him. right away he pointed out some things that i didnt even notice nor did any other mechanic that looked at my engine. he said my car has a rough time starting for 2 reasons, my ignition cables are ran like shit and they're rubbing and are close to things so there is alot of arching going on, AND he thinks my timing is advanced.... he also pointed out why my climate controls only work on defrost. on the passenger side near the firewall there is a small black line thats broken. the climate control line. but he wasnt sure where it goes into, nor do i. so does anyone know where that goes into? and does anyone agree or disagree with his diagnostic of my poor engine start? i would love to hear some opinions! Thanks!

ttocs · May 6, 2012

that line goes across the back of the motor into the vac tree on the drivers side fender. You can get a coupler that will just slide over the two ends and take 3 secs.

If your timing is advanced you will need to run 91-93 octane gas, what are you running now?

Big_T · May 6, 2012

i know where it goes on the drivers side, but the cable runs all the way to the passenger side. where does it connect into on that side!
and idk if my timing is advanced or not, thats just what he thinks, my friend has a timing light so we are gonna see if it is. but will a timing advance make a rough startup like that?

Big_T · May 6, 2012

i know its suppose to go into the firewall on the passenger side of the car, which mine does not. but where does it connect to once it goes through the firewall?

CC'S95GT · May 6, 2012

it connects to the HVAC controls.
The vents are spring loaded to the defrost position as a safety measure and the vacuum will direct the vents to open to the dash or floor.

Big_T · May 6, 2012

ok so i found out where it plugs into, looks like the vacuum reservoir that's behind my glove box, but i cant find where it passes through the firewall, ive been looking all day and cant find anything!

Big_T · May 7, 2012

fixed the vacuum line, but does anyone know how to set the timing back to stock?

CC'S95GT · May 7, 2012

Timing light. Pull spout connector. Set to 10*btdc. Reinstall spout.
Don't know what the spout connector is? Get Haynes/Chilton manual. Hint, it's located by the MAF and airfilter.

toyman · May 7, 2012

A couple of things. If you are planning on keeping the car you need an OBDI code reader (about $22 from Summit) and a service manual. The code reader will save you big $$$'s vs. throwing parts on in the hope it will resolve an issue. If you are interested I have the complete 1995 FORD car CD service manual, EVTM (Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manuals), Service Manual and PCED (Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnostics Manuals). PM me for details.

Big_T · May 8, 2012

i dont need a OBDI code reader. i have a paperclip for the codes!

but i just need to fix my timing, and i have a friend with a timing light and i know the stock timing is 10, but i just wasnt sure of the actual steps to set it.

CC'S95GT · May 8, 2012

The car needs to be at operating temp too. What is your timing set to now? Most poeple will bump the timing up for some extra pwr. The limit is when it starts pinging on acceleration. Then you need to run a higher octane fuel. Every car is different as to the timing it will start to ping at. I'm running 12* btdc and still able to run 87 octane.

Big_T · May 10, 2012

i use the regular fuel and it doesnt ping at all, but it just has a hard timing starting, almost sounds like its gonna die then out of no where its sparks and kicks in. i dont have a timing light so idk what my timing is at now. but if its not my timing then idk what it could be.

modo · May 10, 2012

define hard time starting. starts then stalls? or cranks for 4-5 seconds before starting?

Big_T · May 10, 2012

cranks like 4-5 seconds before starting

toyman · May 11, 2012

Try waiting for a couple of seconds for the fuel pump to prime before cranking the engine. If that doesn't change the crank time try cycling the fuel pump by turning the ignition on and off a couple of times before cranking. If either of these suggestions work you might want to consider changing the fuel pump. If you do, your best bet is a Walbro GSS340.

Monsterbishi · May 11, 2012

Toyman is close to the source of your cranking problem, but not quite ;-) The fuel system is built to maintain pressure, even for quite some time after it is shut off. It'll either be your fuel pressure regulator failing to retain the pressure, or one of your injectors is blocked open/leaking.

modo · May 11, 2012

if the battery is weak you will have longer crank times...

Big_T · May 11, 2012

i tried the ignition on a couple times before cranking and got the same results, and i tested my battery/ alternator, starter. all good. the only thing i have left that i havent tested, would be new spark plugs, new cables, and new cap and rotor, while im at it check the timing and see if that does the trick, because i also have a idle issue. jumps like 1000 rpm's between shifts and when i stop idles high for like 4-5 seconds before coming back down to idle. anyone know about that?

Big_T · May 13, 2012

ok, so i got a timing light and there is only one timing mark. not even a number all it is, is a hatch mark. anyone know how i cant tell where 10 is? and am i suppose to time it to 10 with the spout unplugged? b/c it almost seems the spout automatically sets the timing 10 degrees BTDC. but i have no clue!