95 underhood heat suggestions

jbeez · Jul 26, 2008

What do you guys do to take care of it?

Anyone here have some good pics or knowledge of heat extractor hoods for a 95? I was thinking about getting that saleen one... does that have a small cowl lift too?

I think my headers are giving off a ton of heat, I got those BBK long tubes... ceramic coated. I'm sure my s-trim is heating the balls out of my engine bay too, its so bad my charging system is suffering and can't keep up, even with a pa performance 200amp alternator. I just measured the temp on the alt today, it was only ~165 degrees after like 1/2 hr of driving.

Spd0lit · Jul 26, 2008

you could get a cowl hood and that would help with the heat.

Javi · Jul 26, 2008

Change your thermostat to 180*.
Get an aluminum radiator.
Set you fan to manual Mod.
Use 70% Water 30% coolant.

IMO a hood will not help as much as these (mentioned above) and you probably spend not even $300 for the radiator and thermostat,But, if you want a hood for the looks then go ahead and buy the Heat extractor fully functional for about $620 plus almost $200 to get it painted and still have heating problems.

Cervinis carries the hood here a pic of it,it looks sweet!!

stock height

jbeez · Jul 27, 2008

ıʌɐɾ said:
Change your thermostat to 180*.
Get an aluminum radiator.
Set you fan to manual Mod.
Use 70% Water 30% coolant.

I have a steeda aluminum radiator(I don't think they sell these anymore but I bought one a few years ago), I have a tweecer, my fan turns on when it needs to, I have a 180degree thermastat, and my coolant mixture is perfect. My water temps read between 180 and 210 which is perfectly acceptable, infact for my car I'd say its amazing given the amount of heat under the hood.

I have a DSS dart 331 w/ TEA ported trickflow twisted wedge heads, anderson b-31 cam, holley systemax with lower portmatched, 84lb injectors, dual walbro pumps, fuel cooler, power pipe, 75mm PP TB, 92mm promracing MAF, sq-trim w/ stock pulley, I've peaked my boost at like 13-14 lbs according to my autometer gauge peak recall, just using a dayco polycog belt. If I had to guess I'd say the supercharger makes a nice contribution to the heat, but the headers are probably the main culprit.

I'm seriously considering a fox TB conversion so I can more easily install an intercooler to drop these air intake temps as well, but I think some heat shield or header wrap and a heat extractor hood would help.

quick and dirty link http://www.jbeez.net/mustang/ I really need to redo my page and update it but I suck with html

Javi · Jul 27, 2008

http://www.jbeez.net/mustang/

^^^ :hitit: :hitit: :hitit:

Awesome Built ride.

A few guys here have the Mishimoto alum. radiator and they are really pleased with the results.

I personally dont have it but im considering it.

Glueyes · Jul 27, 2008

We pretty much have the exact set ups minus heads and cam.I was having cooling issues my self.I changed to 160
thermostat added 75% water and 25% coolant and added water wetter.I also had my tuner adjust the fan settings and my car runs 180 with the AC on now

jbeez · Jul 27, 2008

Glueyes said:
We pretty much have the exact set ups minus heads and cam.I was having cooling issues my self.I changed to 160
thermostat added 75% water and 25% coolant and added water wetter.I also had my tuner adjust the fan settings and my car runs 180 with the AC on now

I drove it home tonight from a party I was at today, I drove it with the AC on, the water temp stays between 180-210 the problem isn't really the engine itself, its the accessories, esp if I idle, the heat isn't getting out from under that thing.

BTW Glueyes, who's that dood in your avatar? lol

Paul · Jul 27, 2008

If you're having charging problems, underhood heat is not the problem.

Glueyes · Jul 28, 2008

jbeez said:
Glueyes said:

We pretty much have the exact set ups minus heads and cam.I was having cooling issues my self.I changed to 160
thermostat added 75% water and 25% coolant and added water wetter.I also had my tuner adjust the fan settings and my car runs 180 with the AC on now

Click to expand...

BTW Glueyes, who's that dood in your avatar? lol

lol it's me joking actually it's her

Addermk2 · Jul 28, 2008

what an ass....

:knuppel2: I'd hit it... then violate her while she was knocked out!

Javi · Jul 28, 2008

uttahere:

tommybunz · Jul 28, 2008

i would just like to suck on her panties right out of her ras.

jbeez · Jul 28, 2008

Paul said:
If you're having charging problems, underhood heat is not the problem.

What could it be if I have a brand new 200amp alternator and wiring, my old 130amp alternator did the same thing, and it only happens after the car starts to get pretty hot?

Paul · Jul 28, 2008

Do you have underdrive pulleys?

Also, how do you know your charging system isn't keeping up?

94kingcbra · Jul 28, 2008

I had a 220 amp alternator that I burned up 4 times. I had the same problem, it was fine around the city but when I drove for about an hour at highway speeds it would get really hot and stop charging, I would have to stop and let it cool down. Eventually it would stop charging for good and I ended up returning it and getting a lifetime warranty duralast gold alternator from autozone and I have not had any problems since.

jbeez · Jul 28, 2008

Paul said:
Do you have underdrive pulleys?

Also, how do you know your charging system isn't keeping up?

Paul, I'm not using underdrive pulleys, I know the charging system can't hang because my headlights will dim, the vent blowers will die down, and the voltage needle won't hold upto 14v anymore drops to 12v and sometimes lower depending on what I have on, all these things work fine on a cold start, actually tomorrow morning I'll double check that, I'll put the fan on the 4th position at full, and put my headlights on, and observe the voltage needle to be certain.

I'm also looking into installing a bigger ground from my block or right off the alternator to the chassis. Packed my multimeter in my work bag and once I get to the office I can pop the hood tomorrow once its all heated up and check some resistances.

Paul · Jul 28, 2008

I'd be suspicious of that alternator.

ryclef331 · Jul 28, 2008

You can do a "poor man's" cowl heat extractor. The cowl panel (where the wipers come out) has a rubber seal across it. It seals the hood to that black plastic panel. Yank that rubber seal off and you'll have a gap at the back side. boom...vents out the heat.

2slo95fiveoh · Jul 28, 2008

ryclef331 said:
You can do a "poor man's" cowl heat extractor. The cowl panel (where the wipers come out) has a rubber seal across it. It seals the hood to that black plastic panel. Yank that rubber seal off and you'll have a gap at the back side. boom...vents out the heat.

hmm... i may have to try that..

jbeez · Jul 29, 2008

ryclef331 said:
You can do a "poor man's" cowl heat extractor. The cowl panel (where the wipers come out) has a rubber seal across it. It seals the hood to that black plastic panel. Yank that rubber seal off and you'll have a gap at the back side. boom...vents out the heat.

I've thought about doing that, and also putting some washers in my hood hinges to lift the back of the hood a little.... I would need a hand with the washers I think to support the hood or something, I haven't thought it out fully.

The weatherstripping is currently holding up my little pvc oil trap, I need to figure out where to relocate that before I can remove that weatherstrip. Good idea though I need to get that out and see what happens.

When I got to work this morning I took my multimeter and checked the voltage coming out of the alternator, it was like 12.3 or 12.7 something like that, I don't think any wiring upgrades would help that, unless it only outputs at the higher voltage if its requested by things. It was idling, and I had the headlights/foglights, and vent blowing at full blast max ac. when I turned those off the voltage was higher. I'll find this gremlin :wall: