96 gt project

wheresmycobra · Feb 24, 2012

My 96 Mustang GT 248a
Okay so when i bought this it was one of the most basic models. 46,000 original miles. Cloth seats, no power windows, no power locks. 5 speed. No spoiler, no fog lights.
BUT ANYWAYS...it had been in a front end collision.
So...i bought new bumper(shouldve gotten a cobra bumper), new cobra r hood, new fenders(shaved the emblem slots)
Decided i better paint the whole car

Shaved the emblems off the trunk as well. I was going for the smooth look. No spoiler, no emblems.
COSMETIC
FR500 wheels 18 in all around

Eibach sportline lowering springs really gave it a mean stance

cobra r hood with shortie antenna

Shaved emblems and smooth lip on trunk

If you want me to post before pictures i can just need to upload them.

PERFORMANCE
well you have to start somewere and with me it was the cold air intake and exaust lol
Exaust
I had to get something that sounded different then most mustangs...I was gonna go for slp 2s and they sounded great but not different. So i went with Mac pro dumps with cat delete and o2 sensor delete. Sounds deep and unique. Ive had ALOT of compliments.
Ill upload a video in the morning
Engine
Cold air intake so far.
I just bought the pi intake and pi cams. Still looking for some heads. So ill post progress of that whole swap! Ordering all the gaskets needed
Drive Train
Going to order 3.73 gears off american muscle.

Im looking to boost with this set up^ Going for a twin screw eaton or kenne bell only like 6 to 10 psi

Once it gets nicer out things should start moving along faster and ill post a ton more about the build!

g36 monkey · Feb 24, 2012

Looks like Josh Hootens car ;p

gorgeous though bub

ProKiller · Feb 24, 2012

what do you mean by smooth lip on the trunk?

foofinator · Feb 24, 2012

That's a beautiful clean canvas to start with.

twovalveterror · Feb 24, 2012

looks like it's off to a great start!

I don't know of anyone boosting with a PI swapped motor though, compression is on the high side. you may want to consider just swapping in a PI longblock, unless you plan on redoing the bottom end before throwing boost at it.

wheresmycobra · Feb 24, 2012

I want to use this engine. Low miles and buying a new block is kind of out of my budget.
Is there a difference in the bottom end of a 96 gt and say a 01 gt?

foofinator · Feb 24, 2012

I will be boosting a PI swapped motor!

No need to be afraid of a little extra compression with a good tuner and good fuel.

twovalveterror · Feb 24, 2012

wheresmycobra said:
I want to use this engine. Low miles and buying a new block is kind of out of my budget.
Is there a difference in the bottom end of a 96 gt and say a 01 gt?

I learned this from some of the great members on here. the pistons of the NPI block have a smaller dish than the PI block. because of the larger dished pistons in the PI blocks, the heads had a smaller combustion chamber. when you put the heads with smaller combustion chambers (PI) onto the block with less dished pistons (NPI) your compression is raised to about 10.5:1 I believe.

check this thread out for a more detailed discussion. http://sn95forums.com/showthread.php?47725-How-Much-Power-can-you-get-out-of-a-NA-4.6-2v/page3

foofinator said:
I will be boosting a PI swapped motor!

No need to be afraid of a little extra compression with a good tuner and good fuel.

I was hoping someone with first hand experience would chime in! I never doubted it was possible, I just recall that optimal compression for a boosted motor is around 8.5:1 is it not?

Musturd · Feb 24, 2012

Nice looking car

V8POWA! · Feb 24, 2012

nice start, I wanna shave mine too when the time comes....

foofinator · Feb 24, 2012

'Optimal' will depend upon the set up and some serious engineering equations (I was an aerospace engineer before law school).

While you are correct in that you can run more boost on a lower compression motor, just the fact that a motor is high compression does not prohibit boost.

With a good tune, and good fuel, 9-10 PSI should not be a problem for street duty! I will likely run e85.. It handles 30 PSI from my 3.4 whipple, it should be able to take 9 from an eaton with a little bumped compression. The key is not in the fact that the compression is higher, but in that higher compression motors will be more prone to detonation at the same boost level as their low compression counterparts. Without detonation, a 400 rwhp 15 psi motor does not see a significant difference from a higher compression 400 rwhp 10 psi motor. This is why I stress the good tune and gas, which is essential to any boosted motor really.

I DO however, once I build the motor, plan to go the typical low compression route, as should the OP. But, building motors is time consuming and is expensive, why not enjoy the stocker while you're building the bad ass stroker.

foofinator · Feb 24, 2012

Oh and to the OP:

If you do the PI swap yourself (including the heads). TWO things that I definitely missed and were not in the Haynes manual.

1. Check to make sure the heads you get come with the ****ing oil galley plugs. I left these out, not knowing, and dumped 7 quarts all over my drive way on the first start.

2. When timing the motor. Do not ever rotate the crankshaft once you have one side timed and you move to the other. I timed half the motor on exhaust and half on compression. Ran GREAT.

Live and learn.

vermilion · Feb 24, 2012

twovalveterror said:
looks like it's off to a great start!

I don't know of anyone boosting with a PI swapped motor though, compression is on the high side. you may want to consider just swapping in a PI longblock, unless you plan on redoing the bottom end before throwing boost at it.

i have 10.7ish and using a t-trim. it has 16psi of boost. you are correct, i recommend a stronger bottom end. i'd like to add that a conservative tune is needed as well. there is no reason to throw 22* of timing on higher compression. its a recipe for disaster. x2 on a great start.