A/C Problems

95GT

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Well the A/C doesnt work it works for Hot air fine but the cold air just blows hot air, is it that i just need freon? Or can it be something else? Is a 95 Gt 5.0 automatic if that helps, thanks
 

95-stang

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Could be anything, you need the system testing first to see if it will hold gas, any good aircon place should be able to do it.
They usually use a coloured dye forced through the system to see if any of the seals or components are broke or worn out.
 

ddrracing

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also, a guy i know at the ford dealer made this nifty little fitting with an air pressure gauge to just attach an air hose to the shrader valve, and all you have to do from their is listen for leaks, and see if the system holds pressure. Works pretty good.
 

95 svt cobra

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Delete it! :thumb: nah you probably just need a recharge, walmart sells recharge kits as does autozone/craquest etc etc chances are your just low on refrigerant.
 
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95GT

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95-stang said:
Could be anything, you need the system testing first to see if it will hold gas, any good aircon place should be able to do it.
They usually use a coloured dye forced through the system to see if any of the seals or components are broke or worn out.
how much you think this will cost?estimate?
 
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95GT

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95 svt cobra said:
Delete it! :thumb: nah you probably just need a recharge, walmart sells recharge kits as does autozone/craquest etc etc chances are your just low on refrigerant.
thats what i was thinking
 

El_Diablo

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95GT said:
95-stang said:
Could be anything, you need the system testing first to see if it will hold gas, any good aircon place should be able to do it.
They usually use a coloured dye forced through the system to see if any of the seals or components are broke or worn out.
how much you think this will cost?estimate?
depends on where you live but around here its usually around $60-$120 depending on the lb amount of r-134 you need, just a test usually starts at $60 though
 

zero_chance

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Im a part time assistant manager and a full time certified Ford tech. If the system blows hot air, it means either it has a leak which is very common, or a previous owner for some reason discharged the system and never recharged it. Not likely, but possible. In any case, you need to find the source of the leak which any garage can do. Most common way is a UV light to search for traces of dye. Every Ford car since 95 has a dye pellet in the AC system. If its been open to atmosphere for too long, the dye may be hard to find so like has been stated, it may need to be charged and injected with dye to find the source of the leak. On our cars, common leak points are the service fittings (most people replace them with a newer style), and Ive seen several cars with holes in the condenser. Back to my main point, having the background at the dealership has taught me to try and steer people away from using parts stores R134a, especially the ones that contain stop leak additives. The stop leak in these products is activated upon contact with moisture and then turns into a goop similar to RTV. The theory is that the AC system is free of moisture so if theres a leak in the system, the sealer will seal a bond at the source, IE the leak. The problem with this is a system that has a small leak will have a LOT of moisture in it since its been open to atmosphere for some time. So now youll have sealant spreading throughout the system, which usually clogs the service ports and more importantly, the fixed orifice tube. This is the small element inside the system that has tiny filter screens and is the seperation between the high and low sides of the system. If this gets clogged, which is fairly easy, youll be back to no AC only now youll have to pay a shop to flush your system, replace the orifice and possibly the service fittings, on top of whatever the original leak was. I steer people away from a lot of the R134a products at Advance. If the system worked for some time and then started blowing warm air theres a concern that needs to be addressed. Not all 134A products will have stop leak so if your convinced you just need to throw some freon in it without fixing the concern, be sure to get one without stop leak additives. And for people with new cars under warranty that may have decided to throw this junk in the system instead of bringing it into the dealer, most places now require the freon to be tested for unauthorized stop leak and signs of hydrocarbons (some places have filled systems with propane instead of refrigerant since its cheaper.. and yes, it will cool your car just as good as 134A.. until you get into an accident and some 500 PSI propane ignites)
 
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95GT

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zero_chance said:
Im a part time assistant manager and a full time certified Ford tech. If the system blows hot air, it means either it has a leak which is very common, or a previous owner for some reason discharged the system and never recharged it. Not likely, but possible. In any case, you need to find the source of the leak which any garage can do. Most common way is a UV light to search for traces of dye. Every Ford car since 95 has a dye pellet in the AC system. If its been open to atmosphere for too long, the dye may be hard to find so like has been stated, it may need to be charged and injected with dye to find the source of the leak. On our cars, common leak points are the service fittings (most people replace them with a newer style), and Ive seen several cars with holes in the condenser. Back to my main point, having the background at the dealership has taught me to try and steer people away from using parts stores R134a, especially the ones that contain stop leak additives. The stop leak in these products is activated upon contact with moisture and then turns into a goop similar to RTV. The theory is that the AC system is free of moisture so if theres a leak in the system, the sealer will seal a bond at the source, IE the leak. The problem with this is a system that has a small leak will have a LOT of moisture in it since its been open to atmosphere for some time. So now youll have sealant spreading throughout the system, which usually clogs the service ports and more importantly, the fixed orifice tube. This is the small element inside the system that has tiny filter screens and is the seperation between the high and low sides of the system. If this gets clogged, which is fairly easy, youll be back to no AC only now youll have to pay a shop to flush your system, replace the orifice and possibly the service fittings, on top of whatever the original leak was. I steer people away from a lot of the R134a products at Advance. If the system worked for some time and then started blowing warm air theres a concern that needs to be addressed. Not all 134A products will have stop leak so if your convinced you just need to throw some freon in it without fixing the concern, be sure to get one without stop leak additives. And for people with new cars under warranty that may have decided to throw this junk in the system instead of bringing it into the dealer, most places now require the freon to be tested for unauthorized stop leak and signs of hydrocarbons (some places have filled systems with propane instead of refrigerant since its cheaper.. and yes, it will cool your car just as good as 134A.. until you get into an accident and some 500 PSI propane ignites)
Great info, appreciate that, I guess ill take it to a shop to get checked 1st and then go from there
 

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