Another noise...please help

freefallin98

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Ok so I know my brakes need to be replaced soon, hence the squeeking and whining of them now lol. But I took my car to les schwab to check her out and they put her on a lift and came to the conclusion that this clunking noise that happens when I turn my wheels really sharp at slow speeds is either my drive shaft u joints, or is could be something inside my pumpkin such as gears or a bearing kit. So, I hsould definitely try my u joints first I was thinking. Shouldnt take more than a couple of hours at the most eh? What if this does not solve my problems? Get a new bearing kit and gear ratio?

Thanks,

Free
 
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freefallin98

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common gentleman...BUMP! These things are crucial for me to fix, hence my car IS my DD lol.
 

ripper

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If les schwab is a mech one look at your u joints and he should be able to tell if they are shot. They wouldnt just clunk when you made a slow turn also. It would clunk all the time. But if it turns out to be what im thinking it is your gonna wish it was u joints lol. Maybe your t lock is hanging up.
 

voidfinger

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Stevo said:
If les schwab is a mech one look at your u joints and he should be able to tell if they are shot. They wouldnt just clunk when you made a slow turn also. It would clunk all the time. But if it turns out to be what im thinking it is your gonna wish it was u joints lol. Maybe your t lock is hanging up.
:noes:
 
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freefallin98

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Wait a second...a T lock...so like this is coming from inside my rear end eh?

Give me some good news here guys. Would you suggest I just replace my u joints first though? How big i this to replace if it is my t lock and how much does it matter if i do or do not replace it.
 

reivaxtorres

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freefallin98 said:
Wait a second...a T lock...so like this is coming from inside my rear end eh?

Give me some good news here guys. Would you suggest I just replace my u joints first though? How big i this to replace if it is my t lock and how much does it matter if i do or do not replace it.

u-joints are easy as hell to replace, with hammer and an old 18mm socket (to use as a tap) it shouldnt take you more than 15-30 minutes to swap them both out youself.

as for the t-lock, likewise this is an easy task to accomplish, but its gonna take you a little longer. since you will not be swapping the gears for something higher (4.10s, etc) its a simple task of taking one off and replacing it with the new one. should take you about an hour or 2 tops. not too sure about the bearings tho since i have never replaced them (just took out the t-loc once to see how it was done, you might need to take them to a shop to press them off/on)
 
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freefallin98

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Ok well that is a definate ease to my mind...but can someone explain to me what a t lock is, what it does, and how much i could expect to pay for one?

On the u joint replacement, all I do is take those 2 bolts out of the driveline and slide it out right? I have never changed one myself, saw one done a loooong time ago. How are the bushings held in...do you have to press them in...or what? Does the re-install require any kidn of precision lining of the drive shaft?
 

voidfinger

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freefallin98 said:
Ok well that is a definate ease to my mind...but can someone explain to me what a t lock is, what it does, and how much i could expect to pay for one?

On the u joint replacement, all I do is take those 2 bolts out of the driveline and slide it out right? I have never changed one myself, saw one done a loooong time ago. How are the bushings held in...do you have to press them in...or what? Does the re-install require any kidn of precision lining of the drive shaft?

I think its a lock washer or whatever holding it in.... the things you gotta sweaze with a set of needle nose pliers...no big deal super easy
 

Jrgunn5150

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T-lock= Traction Lock, your posi. It's about 150 for parts to rebuild I think, plus labor, which would be over 300.
 

voidfinger

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Jrgunn5150 said:
T-lock= Traction Lock, your posi. It's about 150 for parts to rebuild I think, plus labor, which would be over 300.

I heard that t locks weren't that hard to rebuild yourself. but i don't know for sure.
 

voidfinger

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Jrgunn5150 said:
They aren't, it's one of those things thats easy once you get it apart.

Any guides to do it? i might do it when i get ready for my gears... go on and redo everything so i wont have any problems for a while plus the stock one has like 160k on it :)
 

Jrgunn5150

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I saw a write up in one of the mag's once, within the last year or so, basically you just pull the old clutches out and replace them. There's a spring and a pin keeping you from dooing that.
 

ripper

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:eek: Little more to it than that LOL. Couple of things like pressed c clips, backlash adjustment, you do it wrong and good by rear.
 

reivaxtorres

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freefallin98 said:
Ok well that is a definate ease to my mind...but can someone explain to me what a t lock is, what it does, and how much i could expect to pay for one?

On the u joint replacement, all I do is take those 2 bolts out of the driveline and slide it out right? I have never changed one myself, saw one done a loooong time ago. How are the bushings held in...do you have to press them in...or what? Does the re-install require any kidn of precision lining of the drive shaft?


for the u-joint replacement, its fairly simple but like i said, due to age, it might be a little harder.

basic steps:
- take off the driveshaft (you dont have to lower the exhaust to do this, there should be enough room to work around it, but it might help if you do, cant remember)
- with some pliers, take off all 4 of the clips. DO ONE U-JOINT AT A TIME. there will be 4 clips per ujoint. i say them do one at atime because this way you dont forget which side of the d/s is the front and which is the rear).
- with that spare 18mm deep socket i mentioned earlier and the hammer, tap the ujoint out, one side at a time. i say loosen the flange/yoke side first. you tap it out and it should slide out easy enough with the hammer, but you could use wd-40 to make things easier.
-- IF the u-joint seems like its stuck or there isnt enough room to manuver it out of the yoke/driveshaft, you can remove the cap (the part you were hitting with the socket/hammer). it just slides off, and then you can manuver the joint out.

reinstall: basically the opposite of the above, except you prob wont need the hammer. the new one should slide in with ease, and it should also come with new clips. to install it, you can also remove the "cap" from the new one, just be VERY careful of those pins in there. if they fall out, you have to reinstal them and grease them up and everything.

i think i have a spare u-joint at home that i can take a few pics of to show you what i am talking about, but i doubt ill have time tonight. if you need the pics, let me know.
 
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freefallin98

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Wow that was a pretty good write up..thanks man. I prob wont be getting to it for about a week or so...when the brakes come in. But yeah, pics would help a lot.
 

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