ttocs
Post Whore
I think most people just assume its metal since most cars are.
Anyone skinned/gutted a stock hood?
- Thread starter JKady
- Start date
Tally_4.6
Well-Known Member
Alright guys i got it, jesus.
I assumed it was a metal skin with a composite frame based on how it looked when paint chipped off it. Plus it sounded a little different when you used your hand and knocked on it.
Obviously i was wrong, thank you all.
I assumed it was a metal skin with a composite frame based on how it looked when paint chipped off it. Plus it sounded a little different when you used your hand and knocked on it.
Obviously i was wrong, thank you all.
JKady
Active Member
Yeah like I said right around 90-100 I had it shake pretty hard the first time out. It moves a little at normal highway speeds but nothing the least bit alarming.
I did discover shortly after that that I'd left two of the nuts finger tight which contributed to a lot of flex.
The other problem is that I've got the scoop holes open which is disrupting the airflow over the hood in a really high pressure area (almost at the cowl). I think (hope) the shake will calm down some with the scoop holes filled so that the air has a nicer surface to flow over. Car will also be getting a gt500 extractor (Or I may just cut/form the hood for one). After I do the boxed rad and extractor hood I plan on blocking the grille opening so that may help it as well.
ttocs
Post Whore
the hood holes are made to cool by using the venture effect. The air isn't fed directly into the how but rather across it which pulls air out of the hole. It could be creating a pressure system to push it up a little but the pressure area at the cowl probably has a bigger effect on it. You could throw a piece of tape across the holes to test it before sealing them off completely if it does help. Personally I would try to figure a way out to add a little more structure to it while keeping it light. It could be as simple as getting some flat-stock aluminum or L-channel from the hardware store and figuring out a way to mount it as I don't think anything you do will keep it from flexing at all. The concern I have is that after a few years of flexing that composite material could start to develop some cracks/problems that one day when you get going a little too fast it snaps and takes your cowl/windshield and maybe your roof out in the damage. There are other on here that have had a hood fly open on them and at that point the cheap/easy/free way of lightening your car could end up being very very expensive.
JKady
Active Member
There is no or at least very little venturi effect with no scoops, they're also not directly open from the factory. All they are right now is a flow disruption. I will see how it does with the holes covered, and if that doesn't fix it I'll bond some aluminum around the edges
ttocs
Post Whore
not sure where you get that info from. A hole with air going over it perpendicular will create suction through the venture effect it doesn't even need the scoops. It would be easy to test by simply taping some strings inside or near it to watch what happens at at speed.
Yes they are mainly for decoration but the are actually functional
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-Sg8LqEfbM
Also curious in the name of weight savings why would you use aluminum? You would neeed some nasty panel bonding adhesive where as with a piece of abs plastic it would be lighter, easier to cut and glue
Yes they are mainly for decoration but the are actually functional
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-Sg8LqEfbM
Also curious in the name of weight savings why would you use aluminum? You would neeed some nasty panel bonding adhesive where as with a piece of abs plastic it would be lighter, easier to cut and glue
JKady
Active Member
I'm not sure ABS would be rigid enough to make a difference, and the kind of aluminum I'm thinking weighs next to nothing. I'd more than likely glass it on or mad max as it may be just screw into it through the hood. The rear edge is what seems to be moving the most, I wouldn't be doing anything on the edges that meet the fender.
ttocs
Post Whore
actually I just had a better idea then the aluminum - just use some rope. Yup you heard me right, just some standard old rope, soaked in fiberglass resin. As an installer we used it on the inside of odd shaped fiberglass enclosures to add some mass and stiffen it up. Once the resin cures it doesn't weight that much but depending on thickness it would take some serious pressure to break it. mask off the areas that you do not want the resin and you could probably just do a strip along each edge. Just mix up the resin and then drop the rope in the resin and stir it around to soak it up and then lay it out where you want it. You would need to either clamp it on the ends, or you could use some epoxy resin(fast dry) to first epoxy the ends of the rope down or else as it cures it will shrink and not end up where you want it to be.
JKady
Active Member
Well you have to use epoxy resin on SMC anyway don't you? I'm not real up on glass work other than a little bit of patching on regular fiberglass. This thread is the extent of my SMC knowledge.
That's a pretty sweet idea, thanks for the tip!
And it is needed, I taped over the scoop holes tonight and ran it and it doesn't make a lick of difference.
