Applying Clear Coat

[1998cobrasvt]

Next weekend i am going to give the 97 my Cobra R wheels and some clear coat. Luckily the clear coat has not left in patches and everything is even. The sides are fine, i just need to do the hood roof and top of trunk. The paint is still there, looks new when wet and okay when waxed. Ive never painted nor applied clear coat, but i have used plasti dip and understand its similar concepts/processes. Any reading material,advise would be cool. Will look into it myself as well. Anyone have any feedback on the clear coat spray cans? Ive heard of guys using them to seal their ratrod patina but not sure if that helps me.

Picture when dirty

 

[ttocs]

have you tried a good buff, or a wet sand buff?

 

[1998cobrasvt]

have you tried a good buff, or a wet sand buff?

Yes, it looks good for a little while, then it goes back to faded.

 

[alwill923]

buy a cheap LPHV spray gun and buy a gallon of clear and hardener at an auto paint store. don't worry about runs as they can be fixed with a razor blade and sand paper when dry. When dry wet sand and buff. check ytube as there are probably many videos on how to do it.

 

[DropTopPony]

I always have crappy results with clear in a rattle can. I don't know if its too humid where I live or what but always get cloudiness etc. Now the paint turns out great usually, but then the clear gets messy.

I have thought about buying a small compressor and cheap paint gun to play around with but I need a bigger garage before I get into that.

 

[ttocs]

Are you sure your putting the clear on heavy enough? Or is there too much? I never found a problem with clearing out of a rattle can on small projects working both in the desert of az or the more damp Midwest.

Not sure what you consider a small compressor but I didn't consider upgrading to a gun till I found a great deal on a 60 gallon. Even what that it will kick on for medium sized projects and if it can't support the volume needed at that point then your going to have to sit and wait.

I am not an expert by any means as I am learning as I go now but the best advice I can give is prep prep prep. At the very least scuff the hood with some scrotchbright to both help remove all the wax you have already put on it as well as to hopefully smooth out any rough areas. Might even want to consider some block wet sanding with some 400/600 to be sure its smooth and ready on any extra rough areas. After that be sure to wipe the entire area covered down with some kind of paint prep spray/wipes to again be sure you get all the wax/crap off of it. The very last step I do before I mix anything is to take a tack cloth and wipe down the entire area again. I know it seems like over kill but I am always amazed at what the tack cloth picks up after all the cleaning already done. Finally after all that you can paint.....

 

[1998cobrasvt]

I always have crappy results with clear in a rattle can. I don't know if its too humid where I live or what but always get cloudiness etc. Now the paint turns out great usually, but then the clear gets messy.

I have thought about buying a small compressor and cheap paint gun to play around with but I need a bigger garage before I get into that.

Id like to use a rattle for simplicity hope it doesnt cloud as i am near your area. I could always spray it in a closed garage vs outside if that helps.

 

[1998cobrasvt]

Are you sure your putting the clear on heavy enough? Or is there too much? I never found a problem with clearing out of a rattle can on small projects working both in the desert of az or the more damp Midwest.

Not sure what you consider a small compressor but I didn't consider upgrading to a gun till I found a great deal on a 60 gallon. Even what that it will kick on for medium sized projects and if it can't support the volume needed at that point then your going to have to sit and wait.

I am not an expert by any means as I am learning as I go now but the best advice I can give is prep prep prep. At the very least scuff the hood with some scrotchbright to both help remove all the wax you have already put on it as well as to hopefully smooth out any rough areas. Might even want to consider some block wet sanding with some 400/600 to be sure its smooth and ready on any extra rough areas. After that be sure to wipe the entire area covered down with some kind of paint prep spray/wipes to again be sure you get all the wax/crap off of it. The very last step I do before I mix anything is to take a tack cloth and wipe down the entire area again. I know it seems like over kill but I am always amazed at what the tack cloth picks up after all the cleaning already done. Finally after all that you can paint.....

Good to know you have had success with the rattle can. I will be sure to take extra precautions for prep, thanks.

 

[DropTopPony]

Id like to use a rattle for simplicity hope it doesnt cloud as i am near your area. I could always spray it in a closed garage vs outside if that helps.

Give it a shot it can't be much worse than it is now and you can sand it down if needed.

A few of the body guys I know locally are the ones that told me about the humidity making it tough on clear. Like I said the paint goes down perfect but I almost always get spots when I clear so I wouldn't even try something large if I wanted it to look good.

Here are my mirrors that I rattle canned. The paint came out good but the imperfections were in the clear. I sprayed 3 light coats and still had some clouding and bubbling. The mirrors were prepped well and the paint laid nicely.

 

[RedTwilight]

If you plan on using spray bombs then try to get 2K clear. It won't yellow as bad after awhile as regular spray can clears.
It's basically a 2 part clear that when you press in the button on the bottom the paint and hardener mix together. But be warned that one the two parts are mixed the can is only good for no more than 24 hours.

 

[ttocs]

one other piece of advice that might help here I read about it somewhere but can't find it now. I thought it was called grip and rip. Basically just start off with a couple of really really light coats where you don't really get the surface wet as much as just get some clear on it. Wait 10-15 mins for it to flash between coats and then finally come over it with 2 good wet coats.

 

[1998cobrasvt]

Give it a shot it can't be much worse than it is now and you can sand it down if needed.

A few of the body guys I know locally are the ones that told me about the humidity making it tough on clear. Like I said the paint goes down perfect but I almost always get spots when I clear so I wouldn't even try something large if I wanted it to look good.

Here are my mirrors that I rattle canned. The paint came out good but the imperfections were in the clear. I sprayed 3 light coats and still had some clouding and bubbling. The mirrors were prepped well and the paint laid nicely.

Nice. That looks way better then the flat paint on my hood lol. One guy i know suggested for larger panels taking two cans and syncing the spray line up of the two cans in each hand while you crossover. He claims it gives much more efficient flow and a better final product. Not sure how i feel about 2 cans but in theory it seems smart.

 

[1998cobrasvt]

one other piece of advice that might help here I read about it somewhere but can't find it now. I thought it was called grip and rip. Basically just start off with a couple of really really light coats where you don't really get the surface wet as much as just get some clear on it. Wait 10-15 mins for it to flash between coats and then finally come over it with 2 good wet coats.

After doing some of my own research this^ is the way i am going to attempt it. Planned everything out yesterday, signed on today and saw this :thumbsup: Thanks

 

[1998cobrasvt]

If you plan on using spray bombs then try to get 2K clear. It won't yellow as bad after awhile as regular spray can clears.
It's basically a 2 part clear that when you press in the button on the bottom the paint and hardener mix together. But be warned that one the two parts are mixed the can is only good for no more than 24 hours.

Hmmmm. Thanks ill look into this. Another guy was swearing by the brand Rustoleum. He showed his motorcycle tank that hes painted and cleared with just Rustoleum products. It honestly came out looking amazing considering its a spray can. He also was saying stay away from the crappy brands like Krylon

 

[ttocs]

I prefer duplicolor myself as I have had issues with rustoleum clear myself

 

[DropTopPony]

I think next time I try a rattle can I will pick up one of those trigger gun type attachments and see how that works.

 

[ttocs]

I don't see how pushing the button a little differently would make any difference. You said you did 3 light coats - did you clean it with any paint prep and did you go over them with a med/heavy coat at all? Everything I have seen on clear says to start off light to aid in adhesion but to end it with a good wet coat to ensure everything is covered nicely.

 

[Z06killinsbf]

You're really going to attempt rattle canning clear coat on your hood? Sure it works ok on small projects where you keep the paint wet and not get dry spots, but on a massive hood or roof it's completely different.

There are electric spray guns that have been used with relative decent success, maybe look into one of those. Also, stick with an epoxy clear for any chance of shine and durability. Since you're plan is to clear over your existing, old paint, I highly recommend getting a blend coat applied. Best thing is a color respray but this may turn out "ok".

 

[ttocs]

if he has not been mixing his materials nor using a gun I am not sure this is the time to learn. As much as I shake my head at the idea of rattle canning a hood I think its his best bet. By the time you figure in the cost of a gun and the compressor to power it as well as the materials he could probably just take it to maaco and have a cheap job done to it.

 

[1998cobrasvt]

You're really going to attempt rattle canning clear coat on your hood? Sure it works ok on small projects where you keep the paint wet and not get dry spots, but on a massive hood or roof it's completely different.

There are electric spray guns that have been used with relative decent success, maybe look into one of those. Also, stick with an epoxy clear for any chance of shine and durability. Since you're plan is to clear over your existing, old paint, I highly recommend getting a blend coat applied. Best thing is a color respray but this may turn out "ok".

I hear what your saying, but honestly i have nothing to lose. For this 97, my goal isnt even factory quality, i need to protect it from the elements, im not sure it will last another winter here on the east coast as it sits now. I can get the clear and spray attachment for more or less 10 bucks. I can learn a little about paint in the process and worst comes to worst if it clouds in certain areas it will still look better then it does flat, also as ttocs said my next option would be a Maaco respray to hold it over until it comes off the back burner for a trailered drag build. But that is well well further in this cars future. If i mess it up ill have it resprayed at Maaco. Either way it will look better then it does now for atleast another year.

May have to wait this weekend, they are calling for rain all weekend.