BranSVT's 1994 Cobra Build Thread

BranSVT · Feb 24, 2016

Hey guys,
This is the build thread for my 1994 SVT Cobra and it is actually my first build ever. I purchased it in April 2015 with 124k miles. I'm not sure about much of the car's history.
I don't know how many owners it's been through, and the guy that had it before me didn't know much about cars, but he treated it well and did not beat on it.
Car dyno'd at 260hp & 300ftlbs (was running a bit lean). There are some issues like a couple bad sensors, maybe some vacuum leaks (due to smog system not fully removed).
I'm pretty much finding little things wrong here and there as I do the work.
Currently it's in storage for the winter, so I'm slowly trying to get some of these things done before spring.

Things that were already done to the car when I bought it

SVO Aluminum Heads
BBK Shorty Headers
BBK H-Pipe
Flowmaster Super 44 Mufflers
BBK Cold Air
MSD Pro-Billet Distributor
MSD Street Fire Ignition Coil
18" Saleen Replica Wheels all around
Riken Raptor ZR Tires (245s front and rear)
Aluminum Driveshaft
3.73 Gears (I think)
Aftermarket Clear Depo Headlights
AutoLogic 2004 Chip (Really outdated)
Smog Pump Delete (They left the whole smog system in, but I recently removed it)

Things I have planned for the car:

DIYPNP ECU (Plug-n-play ECU) - In the process
Dual LC-2 Innovate Motorsports Wideband Sensor Kits (1 for each bank of cylinders) - In the process
EGR Delete
Maximum Motorsports Coilover Kit
Pypes M80s or SLP Loudmouths (Maybe)

Things I have done:

Ford Racing 9mm Spark Plug Wires
Smog System Removal
NGK V-Power #3951 Spark Plugs

With "COBRA" decal (The day I bought it.. It was pretty dirty)

"COBRA" decal removed (Clean & Waxed)

I know.. I know.. I hate the 4x4 stance (Hence the coilovers in the "things planned" section)...

BranSVT · Feb 24, 2016

(Reserved)

rochoa21 · Feb 24, 2016

Nice

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BranSVT · Feb 25, 2016

-UPDATE-

Paid a visit to the garage on Tuesday. I Put the car up on jack stands and sprayed the header flange & muffler flange bolts down with PB blaster.
While everything was soaking, I got my Wideband sensor with the bung threaded onto the sensor and marked where the sensors would fit on each bank of the H-pipe.

I then went ahead and started removing the flange bolts with a couple extensions and a swivel joint.
PB blaster works AMAZING, the nuts surprisingly came off pretty easy despite the rusty studs.
After that, with a little difficulty, I pulled the H-pipe off the flanges and hangers.

The circle marks for the sensors I made while the H-pipe was still on the car.

After all that was done, I began to remove the hard smog line that runs under the car and connects to the H-pipe.
I decided to just cut it in the middle instead of busting my knuckles trying to twist it out.

Hard smog exhaust line removed.

After that line was removed I began removing the other hard smog line that runs to the back of each head.
I had to remove 4 hoses total: 2 rubber heater hoses, and 2 hard AC lines (thankfully my AC system was already empty/depressurized).
But before I did that I drained some coolant so that it wouldn't be pouring out of the hoses. I then maneuvered, the last hard line out.

Second and last hard smog line removed. I'm waiting for smog plugs to be delivered so I can plug the back of each head where the line ran to.

BranSVT · Mar 2, 2016

-UPDATE-

Went to the garage yesterday. Unfortunately the 5/8 thread smog plugs I ordered from LMR were slightly too big. There's a guide that I followed to remove the smog system, and the guy recommended a 9/16 coarse thread bolt.

Started off by plugging the smog holes on the back of each head. I used the 1" 9/16 coarse thread bolt with 3 spacer washers.
As you can see there was a decent amount of carbon buildup (bigger hole) which prevented me from getting the bolt in easily.
All I did was run the bolt in and out a couple times which helped loosen some of the carbon.

Here is a comparison between the 9/16" bolts with spacer washers on the left and the smog plugs from LMR on the right (with 7/16" bolt that I bought for easier installation).
I took both bolts and put some high temp RTV on the threads and screwed them in finger tight (for both heads), waited an hour, then tightened them down.

After I finished plugging the heads, I proceeded to install new 3/4" long 3/8 ARP stainless header bolts I bought because there were at least 2-3 bolts missing on each header.
I only got to finish the passenger side. Is that a copper header gasket??

As you can see, the older header bolts on the right were only threading in about 1/3" of an inch because of the thick BBK header flange.
Should I return those bolts and get 1" long ARP bolts instead of .75"?

neverenuff · Mar 2, 2016

BranSVT said:
-UPDATE-

Went to the garage yesterday. Unfortunately the 5/8 thread smog plugs I ordered from LMR were slightly too big. There's a guide that I followed to remove the smog system, and the guy recommended a 9/16 coarse thread bolt.

Started off by plugging the smog holes on the back of each head. I used the 1" 9/16 coarse thread bolt with 3 spacer washers.
As you can see there was a decent amount of carbon buildup (bigger hole) which prevented me from getting the bolt in easily.
All I did was run the bolt in and out a couple times which helped loosen some of the carbon.

Here is a comparison between the 9/16" bolts with spacer washers on the left and the smog plugs from LMR on the right (with 7/16" bolt that I bought for easier installation).
I took both bolts and put some high temp RTV on the threads and screwed them in finger tight (for both heads), waited an hour, then tightened them down.

After I finished plugging the heads, I proceeded to install new 3/4" long 3/8 ARP stainless header bolts I bought because there were at least 2-3 bolts missing on each header.
I only got to finish the passenger side. Is that a copper header gasket??

As you can see, the older header bolts on the right were only threading in about 1/3" of an inch because of the thick BBK header flange.
Should I return those bolts and get 1" long ARP bolts instead of .75"?

I would get the longer bolts, especially since you have aluminum heads. IMHO

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BranSVT · Mar 3, 2016

neverenuff said:
I would get the longer bolts, especially since you have aluminum heads. IMHO

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Yea, better safe than sorry.

jdsilvaca · Nov 6, 2016

Great car! I just purchased a 1994 Cobra last week. The seller was a lady who had owned it since 1998. It's mostly stock, minus the wheels, stereo, shocks and springs. She put Eibach springs on it, a Pro 5.0 shifter and had some FLowmaster mufflers welded in, along with a set of BBK headers. The smog equipment is all there too. I'm in Cali, so I'm kinda stuck with keeping the smog stuff. For some strange reason, the original water pump pulley was missing (there was a large pulley in place, not sure where it came from) along with the upper idler pulley. I bought the idler pulley, and swapped out the water pump pulley from my 95 mustang. (it's wrecked and on the way to the junkyard) Good luck with your car. I'm just getting started with mine.

MustangChris · Nov 6, 2016

nice dude. off to a good start!

mustanggarage · Nov 7, 2016

BranSVT said:
-UPDATE-

Went to the garage yesterday. Unfortunately the 5/8 thread smog plugs I ordered from LMR were slightly too big. There's a guide that I followed to remove the smog system, and the guy recommended a 9/16 coarse thread bolt.

Started off by plugging the smog holes on the back of each head. I used the 1" 9/16 coarse thread bolt with 3 spacer washers.
As you can see there was a decent amount of carbon buildup (bigger hole) which prevented me from getting the bolt in easily.
All I did was run the bolt in and out a couple times which helped loosen some of the carbon.

Here is a comparison between the 9/16" bolts with spacer washers on the left and the smog plugs from LMR on the right (with 7/16" bolt that I bought for easier installation).
I took both bolts and put some high temp RTV on the threads and screwed them in finger tight (for both heads), waited an hour, then tightened them down.

After I finished plugging the heads, I proceeded to install new 3/4" long 3/8 ARP stainless header bolts I bought because there were at least 2-3 bolts missing on each header.
I only got to finish the passenger side. Is that a copper header gasket??

As you can see, the older header bolts on the right were only threading in about 1/3" of an inch because of the thick BBK header flange.
Should I return those bolts and get 1" long ARP bolts instead of .75"?

personally I am a big fan of header studs. I think they work better than header bolts. and they make getting the header on and off much easier. on my fox mustang I did have to use a bolt on the back hole of the passenger side but arp studs for the rest. that way your stud is fully seated into the head so you don't have to worry. and I have not had one loosen up yet. that has been over a year now.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-1414/overview/