Break-in period for new engine?
- Thread starter martfr2
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AaRoN
King Post Whore
94Pro-5.0
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of course make sure to prime the motor before the first initial start-up
after that i ran my car, idling mostly, and drove it for less than 100 miles before changing my oil from regular to synthetic. then i changed it again at 400 then again at 800. now its good to go
after that i ran my car, idling mostly, and drove it for less than 100 miles before changing my oil from regular to synthetic. then i changed it again at 400 then again at 800. now its good to go
Schiffy
Well-Known Member
I thought if you wanted to run synthetic AFTER you ran regular oil you had to flush the engine, and if you went synthetic back to regular you had to flush again... please, explain...
94Pro-5.0
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i'm not sure what you mean by flushing the engine. This is how i have done every motor and have had no problems. i was also told to do it this way by many others.
Ok...here we go.
Please noone get offended here.
When you first fire up a NEW or FRESH Motor, run standard oil (NOT SYN). I run Rotella 15w-40...yes...diesel oil. You'd be surprised how many engine builders reccomend it. If it can handle the severe boost levels and strains of a truck that see 10k-lbs of payload...then I am sure it can sling a 3k-lb car down the 1320. SO here is my engine builder's procedures....
15-40 Rotella oil
PRIME IT!!!!!
Drop in the dizzy.
Fire it up....it is a Hyd ROLLER cam so it doesn't need the old skool 20 minute break that an older flat tappet cam needs. Just make sure you got good oil pressure and no leaks. Let the car warm up a bit. Take it out and drive it EASY to MID throttle at various loads for about 20-30 miles. Bring her in and change the oil out for the SAME oil again 15w-40 regular. Now...turn it loose. After about 100 or so miles on the street or a good track/dyno session....go ahead and put synthetic in it.
As far as IDLING or LIGHT THROTTLE....NO NO NO NO NO NO NO!!! On a fresh motor, this WILL NOT BUILD ENOUGH CYLINDER PRESSURE TO PROPERLY SEAT THE RINGS!!!! I am NOT saying go out and fire up your new motor and spray/boost the snot out of it but don't baby it! Extended idle time fouls plugs and washes cylinders down! Neither are cheap or good for motors! Like I said, drive it a bit, change the oil (simply to get the contaminants outs of it from machining and assembly), take it out and, as my engine guy says with me in the car, "Stand it on the mat!" I am not talking tap it off the rev limiter or anything like that but you need to load the motor in like 2nd or 3rd gear. Make it work so it can build up pressure in the cylinders to force the rings to seat up!
Please noone get offended here.
When you first fire up a NEW or FRESH Motor, run standard oil (NOT SYN). I run Rotella 15w-40...yes...diesel oil. You'd be surprised how many engine builders reccomend it. If it can handle the severe boost levels and strains of a truck that see 10k-lbs of payload...then I am sure it can sling a 3k-lb car down the 1320. SO here is my engine builder's procedures....
15-40 Rotella oil
PRIME IT!!!!!
Drop in the dizzy.
Fire it up....it is a Hyd ROLLER cam so it doesn't need the old skool 20 minute break that an older flat tappet cam needs. Just make sure you got good oil pressure and no leaks. Let the car warm up a bit. Take it out and drive it EASY to MID throttle at various loads for about 20-30 miles. Bring her in and change the oil out for the SAME oil again 15w-40 regular. Now...turn it loose. After about 100 or so miles on the street or a good track/dyno session....go ahead and put synthetic in it.
As far as IDLING or LIGHT THROTTLE....NO NO NO NO NO NO NO!!! On a fresh motor, this WILL NOT BUILD ENOUGH CYLINDER PRESSURE TO PROPERLY SEAT THE RINGS!!!! I am NOT saying go out and fire up your new motor and spray/boost the snot out of it but don't baby it! Extended idle time fouls plugs and washes cylinders down! Neither are cheap or good for motors! Like I said, drive it a bit, change the oil (simply to get the contaminants outs of it from machining and assembly), take it out and, as my engine guy says with me in the car, "Stand it on the mat!" I am not talking tap it off the rev limiter or anything like that but you need to load the motor in like 2nd or 3rd gear. Make it work so it can build up pressure in the cylinders to force the rings to seat up!
ScottyDsntKnow
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^I'm starting up my new motor for the first time on Friday and this is what I'll be doing. I just hope my stock starter has enough left to turn over the tight ass rotating assy lol. I'm sure it'll be easier to spin once its primed though...
Do you change the filter out on the first 30 mile change too or no?
Do you change the filter out on the first 30 mile change too or no?
94Pro-5.0
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ScottyDsntKnow said:
I did. I used fram every time until the 800-1000 mile oil change, then i went with K&N
ScottyDsntKnow
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Screw Fram, I wouldn't run one of their products in my lawnmower. But that's neither here nor there and its been beat to death how bad they are on other threads. I guess I'm off to stock up on FL1As. I've already got 1 spare in my garage. I guess 2 more
ScottyDsntKnow
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Ya, FL1A filters are like $3 or $4 from advance and always in stock. No idea why in the world you'd run a junk fram in place of a motorcraft unit.
Schiffy
Well-Known Member
I use WIX, but would somebody exlpain to me the downside to fram?
So you don't have to flush the engine to go from Synthetic to standard, or vice versa Ryclef?
So you don't have to flush the engine to go from Synthetic to standard, or vice versa Ryclef?
ScottyDsntKnow
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BadBlack95GT said:
No flush required in my book. I just change it and go. I do change the oil though after every few trips to the track or after any series of severe / hard driving.
Fram filters work fine for the avg street driven bolt on car. They have GREAT filtration but they don't have great FLOW numbers. On a high winding motor, they tend to be a hinderence in the oil system. Most race filters don't filter as well as alot of "regular" filters for that reason. The filters are designed with the intention that the oil will be changed more often than your avg "Every 3,000miles." so the lack of filtration is a moot point.
