cali smog question

nicostang

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I'm so sorry you are having this issue, but there are certain procedures you should do before spending more.

High NOx levels usually have to do with clogged EGR. When the EGR valve doesn't activate correctly it means that the combustion chamber temperatures will be higher. Also take a look at the distributor and make sure it's in fair condition and it's stabbed in the right tooth

Man i bet you are pissed about that asshole. In all honesty if you have a healthy running engine you can even pass emissions with high flow cats and no smog pump. There are some places that don't really care about the visual as long as it passes the rest, but that guy is an a$$.

btw, here is a quote i got from a website. You can go through these checkpoints and read more stuff about it. This quote relates to a honda, but the general issues with emissions are similar on every car.

Taken from: http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/oct2004/techtips.htm

1) The cooling system. This system needs to be in proper working order or the engine can run hot, which can elevate NOx emissions. In this vehicle, the cooling system was working properly.

2) Incorrect timing or spark advance. I had the technician verify that timing and spark advance were correct. The distributor was in the center of its adjustment so I knew camshaft timing was also correct.

3) Carbon deposits in the combustion chamber. A compression test showed it was within specifications.

4) Incorrect spark plug heat range. Always verify that the plugs are the right application and heat range.

5) Incorrect vacuum to the EGR valve. First we checked codes in the engine control module (ECM). In most Hondas, if it has an EGR problem it will set a code. There were no codes in the ECM so we assumed everything was functioning normally. I had him tee a vacuum gauge into the vacuum line to the EGR valve and test-drive the vehicle, which indicated there was no vacuum signal to operate the EGR valve.

One more thing to add is to do the KOEO and KOER tests. That way you can pinpoint things better. OBD1 mustangs' check engine light doesn't always light up when it finds a problem, and your car could be throwing codes that you might not be aware of. (btw you gotta drive the car for about a day without resetting the computer so that info is actually stored)

KOEO/KOER info: http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,2471.0.html

Even though the techs don't hook up the system to OBD1 cars, the information thrown by that can help you a lot.

Please post here if you get any codes, and don't spend on anything else before you run those tests.
 
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95gtdrop

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man ive done all of that exceopt test the vac on the egr. i cleaned it anf inspected the diaphram and it looked good. i might need to adjust timing again to 12-14*. checked on the scanner and got no codes and no check engine light. i might try the paperclip trick tonight.
thanks man
 
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95gtdrop

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So I hooked the code reader up again after driving for about 20 miles, and I got codes 311,314, and 327. I have no idea what the "thermactor" is. It says the left side is failing. WTF?
 

CC'S95GT

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I think the thermactor is a 02 sensor. I think.
you could swap o2's from side to the other to see if the codes change sides.
 
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95gtdrop

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i might try that. they are only a year old and are motorcraft. imma try that.
anyone know where to get the hardlines that go from the egr valve to the line that goes into the fenderwell. green and red harlines. one cracked in half and i think thats why i got the insufficient vacuum to the egr
 
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95gtdrop

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c2b7cae3.jpg




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I am looking for the red, green, and white hard lines. Anyone know where to find em?
 

CC'S95GT

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they're vacuum lines. they don't need to be color coded. you can get that stuff at the parts store of your choice
 
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95gtdrop

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huh. ok i guess i know where im going on lunch today!
if i can get those fixed, i think i should be good to go.
should the timing be set at 10-12-or14*?
should i sea foam the bitch or not?
 

nicostang

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no seafoam right before the test, and timing at 10. Glad at least you got the codes, and thermacor is basically the smog pump. Check if it's working properly. Mine was making a very funny noise.
 

CC'S95GT

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If it's not making noise and the pulley spins free your good.
When my air pump went out it started making noise.
It can be bypassed with a shorter belt if needed .@91"
 

reivaxtorres

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95gtdrop said:

hahahahaa, wow, that sucks. i dont think ive ever been to a smog shop that actually inspects the car that bad. either that guy just got licensed, or he's been hit a few times with some violations.

sucks your going thru so much trouble. too bad you arent in my neck of the woods, i have a friend that woulda helped you out a bit.
 
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95gtdrop

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yeah unbelievable. he wrote me up for the oil seperator between the upper, and the pcv, a t fitting i had in a vacuum line for a gauge. so stupid, but since i get a free re-test im going back to at least see if it will pass the sniffer. if not ill find a shop that wont be a god damned hitler about the small shit
 
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95gtdrop

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ive also heard that even throwing codes for the thermactor, the car will most likely pass as long as the egr is working properly.
 

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