The whole computer compatible is CRAP. If you're throwing a cam in your car, you CAN get it to run and idle. It isn't going to be "stock driveability" but its DAMN close. I had my 331 with AFR 185 Heads, .544" Lift Erson Cam, and a Performer intake idling all day at 850-950 rpms. If you take your time with setting the timing, idle air screw, and THE TPS VOLTAGE (anyone who says the computer does it for you if full of shit) you CAN get it to run and idle. The ultimate solution is to do all of this (makes sure your car is in good working order) and then get it tuned. The problem, like said earlier, is a lack of vaccum signal at idle and cruise. This causes a rich condition and will cause hesitations at other than WOT and also bucking at cruise. Some of you experience this with a STOCK cam. Shit, even with a tune, my car surges when its cold for a lil under a minute, then she settle down. Don't let some driveability ECU bullshit influence your cam decision. GO FOR POWER, EVERYTHING ELSE IS SECONDARY AND NEGLIGIBLE.
Yes, our computers are touchy but they can still do their job and well. You bought a 94-95 Mustang....no need to go BACK in time with a fox body parts and computers.