Camber bolts

Discussion in 'Suspension and Brakes' started by ElrodKTPQ_89, Feb 20, 2016.

  1. ElrodKTPQ_89

    ElrodKTPQ_89 Legend

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    Hey guys, I finally took my car for an alignment yesterday. Long story short the guy at the alignment shop told me that my CC plates were maxed out and I was still at 3 degrees of camber. He was able to get the caster and toe set correctly though and it handled great on the way home. I was talking to a friend lastnight about my options to reduce camber and he mentioned either slotting the upper bolt hole in the strut or using camber bolts. I don't really like the first idea, and have no clue how bolts work and was hoping to get some insight on that. From what I read about them on LMR I can get a full degree on each side using the camber bolts, and for $30 it sounds pretty like able if they're worth it. So do any of you have experience with them? [MENTION=15502]Ferocious[/MENTION] I was thinking you had them on your car?
     
  2. Ferocious

    Ferocious Legend SN95 Supporter

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  3. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

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  4. chris91

    chris91 Well-Known Member

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    What caster/camber plates do you have? Sounds like you have them on the wrong sides.
     
  5. rz5.0

    rz5.0 Legend

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    Those won't work.. Needs to be lobe on the bolt.. Those need a pin or a an offset for the washer to rotate against and change the angle..

    Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk
     
  6. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

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    isn't the flat side on the bolt what it uses instead of a pin? Not positive but pretty sure these are the same style that came with my shockwave kit.

    sorry if I am adding confusion to this but I didn't know there were different types of camber bolts and trying to learn
     
  7. g36 monkey

    g36 monkey Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    Yea, if you don't look closely at a camber bolt you would not necessarily see that it's different. It's just, as stated, lobed like a cam shaft to adjust. They work great, I have them in the red car and I believe we put them in my lady's car as well. No problems.
     
  8. rz5.0

    rz5.0 Legend

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    They are both camber bolts.. But if your shock waves are like mine.. There is a roll pin the washer uses to pivot on..

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  9. rz5.0

    rz5.0 Legend

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  10. ElrodKTPQ_89

    ElrodKTPQ_89 Legend

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    [MENTION=9338]chris91[/MENTION] they're MM 4 bolt plates and installed in the right orientation, but I am pretty low too. I have everything installed according to MM's instructions for my ride height though (control arms, rack bushings, bumpsteer etc.) May give them a call next week.
    [MENTION=10997]g36 monkey[/MENTION] I'm glad to hear that you like them, safety was a main concern with them as well as if they were worth the money and work installing them.
     
  11. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

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    hmm looking at the instructions they have a 1/2" x 1/4" roll pin. I will have to figure out how to use that I guess....

    how low are you, where is the top of the tire vs the fender? You might need the lower mounting point on the K-member that the aftermarket Ks offer to correct it?
     
  12. rz5.0

    rz5.0 Legend

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    Its easy

    Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk
     
  13. ElrodKTPQ_89

    ElrodKTPQ_89 Legend

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    I **think** 25 3/8" from ground to fender lip. I'm using 96+ spindles which allows me to use the upper holes in the K member. If using 94-95 spindles you can't correct bumpsteer enough if they're mounted in the upper holes...you'll max out the bumpsteer Kit before reaching a good spacer setting.
     
  14. ElrodKTPQ_89

    ElrodKTPQ_89 Legend

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  15. Ferocious

    Ferocious Legend SN95 Supporter

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    That looks nowhere close to 3 degrees of camber?

    Unless that was before the alignment, to which I would assume they have no idea what they were doing if they added that much without your consent.
     
  16. ElrodKTPQ_89

    ElrodKTPQ_89 Legend

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    Yea that was just the only pic I had still on my phone. And it was before the alignment. Looking at it from the front it was more obvious. The guy told me he got it from 3.5 to 3 and that was all he could do without "grinding out a slot in my strut tower" to which I said fuq no. There's two guys in the alignment shop, one is a nice, smart car guy who has done my alignment before and really knows his stuff, the other is a complete d!ck...I'll let you figure out who worked on it this time lol. Im taking it back soon anyway because the f'ing steering wheel is turned towards about 8 o clock when the car is going straight :deeplist:
     
  17. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

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    I just installed my M&M K and I don't remember them saying anything about the type of spindle determining which holes to use on the K. I even emailed them to confirm which to use since with air ride I could have it dropped on its nose or high enough to clear any speed bump. They said is to put it in the holes that would correspond to the height of the car while its being driven so I used the uppers
     
  18. ElrodKTPQ_89

    ElrodKTPQ_89 Legend

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  19. g36 monkey

    g36 monkey Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    they really are not difficult to install. remove factory bolt, insert new one. Tighten, take to alignment shop lol.
     
  20. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

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    so am I reading this correctly that you swapped them just to save less then an inch on the bump steer kit? Its not listed as a required part for the install and in the manual it says

    We recommend a bolt-through spindle style such
    as MM part numbers MMTR-1 or MMTR-3. The
    tapered stud type of kit will not have enough range
    of adjustment to correctly adjust bumpsteer with the
    geometry of the MM K-member.

    That makes it sound as though with the correct bump steer kit that its not needed and just an added expense on the job or is there another advantage I didn't find?