Car shuts off after warmed up and wont restart

mrdeep2001 · Apr 13, 2010

Hey guys, I need your expertise.

I was driving down the highway the other day and my car shut off while driving. It didnt stumble or anything, RPMs went straight to zero. Tried to crank start it, it would crank but not start, starter motor was going, but it didnt even try to start. Then I just let the clutch out while in gear hoping to bump start it, but nothing there either.

Pulled off to the side of the road, some guy comes by gives me some gas and sprays my MAF, car starts up. He says my gas guage is broke, but I only drove like 100miles since filling up...Anyway I pulled of to next exit, filled up on gas, and the car died again right as I was about to exit the parking lot. Ended up getting towed home. ;(

So it seems that after the car warms up, itll shut off and cant be restarted. If I wait awhile sometimes I can get it going again, but usually not for long. I did some searching and found that some common issues for this are the PIP in the dizzy and the TFI module. I had the TFI module tested twice at the parts store and it checks out. That leaves the PIP, which I dont really know how to check, so if you have any info on that, I'll take it! A friend of mine has a fox I can get the dizzy out of, but the TFI Module is mounted to the Fox dizzys so, would I still be able to use it?

Did some checking on air filter, cleaned the MAF and IAC. Found my TPS out of range voltage 1.22v where its supposed to be .98 or .99 I couldnt get one of the screws loose so I havent adjusted it yet.

Also, I ran some KOEO and KOER tests. I got the following:

codes pulled:
KOEO (Key On Engine On)
111-system ok

Constant Memory
113 - ACT (Air Charge Temperature) circuit has intermittenly failed above the maximum of 4.6volts
212 - Loss of IDM input to PCM or SPOUT circuit grounded
THIS IS ONE I THINK I NEED TO LOOK INTO, but I am not sure what to do?

332 - EGR valve opening not detected.

KOER (Key On Engine Running)
314 - Thermactor air system inoperative (left side)
311 - Thermactor air system inoperative (right side)
332 - EGR valve opening not detected.

Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to give as much info as I could. Thanks for any help you can give guys!

Deep

Marvin97 · Apr 13, 2010

I had the same thing happening to me with my 91. It boiled down to once it warmed up, the ignition coil was getting hot and failing. If I let it set for awhile it would start back up and run like a champ, but after awhile of driving the coil would get hot and it would shut off like you just turned off the car. I replaced the coil, and after about a month it started doing it again. Turns out something was wrong with the dizzy, I can't remember what exactly, the pickup maybe, but it was killing my ignition coil. Replaced the dizzy and no more problems.

I didn't run any tests like you did though, so your problem may be something else.

mrdeep2001 · Apr 13, 2010

everything im reading is pointing to the halls effect sensor (Pick up) in the dizzy, but i cant find a way to test it. My friend has a fox dizzy but im not sure if it works b/c the TFI module is connected to it...I think I may give in and toss another dizzy at it b/c i need this figured out ASAP. Starting my new job monday and need my car to get there

sn95gtvert · Apr 14, 2010

just wondering, do you have a check engine light on when the car works? i know when the egr throws codes it can cause problems but i dont think it would cause this one.

and what do these mean
314 - Thermactor air system inoperative (left side)
311 - Thermactor air system inoperative (right side)
???

mrdeep2001 · Apr 14, 2010

i USED to have a CEL when the car ran, I dont think it runs long enough now for it to trip the codes. Thermactor air system also has to do with emissions and I think EGR...so maybe my EGR valve is stuck closed or something?

1bad95 · Apr 14, 2010

i would replace the dizzy. my car did same thing, replaced the dizzy and no more problems. i think mine also saidsome egr code but i didnt pay any attention to that. once the car starts again tho the cel light went away. i would def replace the distributor.

1trikgt · Apr 14, 2010

I had the same problem when I got my 95 and it was the hall effects sensor(pick up coil) inside the distributor... it would heat up and thats what causes the dizzy to fail

modo · Apr 14, 2010

warm start issues are 99.9% of the time a TFI module or the pickup in the distributor

212 - Loss of IDM input to PCM or SPOUT circuit grounded

that is your issue... idm=ignition

mrdeep2001 · Apr 14, 2010

So while I was working on replacing the dizzy, I pulled the old one out. When I did that, I looked into hole the dizzy goes into, and I saw this. Next to the gear that meshes with the dizzy gear, there is a piece of metal in which the dizzy shaft slides into. Is it supposed to be shaped like that and not a full circle? Or is something fubared? Trying to figure that out before putting new dizzy in...

Thanks dudes!

modo · Apr 15, 2010

thats fine, nothing to worry about

mrdeep2001 · Jan 27, 2012

FYI: Followup in case anyone else comes across this, I ended up replacing ignition coil, TFI module, and Distributor. If I remember correctly,in the end, it was the halls effect sensor in the distributor not working properly, which wouldnt tell the fuel pump to run. Pulled old dizzy, plugged it in, rotated by hand, but didnt hear fuel pump. put in new dizzy, rotated it and fuel pump came on.